Couple quick question for future LS2 GTO
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Couple quick question for future LS2 GTO
Alright, believe me I have searched. And I have gotten some good info. I am going to get an ls2 A4 GTO in the next couple months, been searching headers, cams, largest tire size I can fit, suspension upgrades, appearence upgrades etc, etc, etc...Just tired of searching so I want to cheat and just ask. One thing I just noticed, is a lot of people are talking about getting a stall with a trans cooler and shift kit on the A4. My goal is high-ish 11's. My track is 106' above sea level and gets negative DA's in Winter all the time.
I want a mild cam. Nothing major, something very street-able. Going to stay stock heads and do headers/tune/intake. What would a good cam/stall set-up be for this? I'm guessing a 3200 stall? I'm new to the GM/car performance scene. Need a mild cam and good stall. What shift kits are popular? Just tell me something that works, so I can look it up, and I don't have a massive budget, so affordability is a concern, but the car will not be daily driven
I want a mild cam. Nothing major, something very street-able. Going to stay stock heads and do headers/tune/intake. What would a good cam/stall set-up be for this? I'm guessing a 3200 stall? I'm new to the GM/car performance scene. Need a mild cam and good stall. What shift kits are popular? Just tell me something that works, so I can look it up, and I don't have a massive budget, so affordability is a concern, but the car will not be daily driven
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Welcome,
There are most likely some knowledegable A4 gurus on here that can get you pointed inthe right direction.
However, your goals and parts combo maynot be exactly the same as theirs.
Stalled Autos can be a big boondoggle if you make a mistake somewhere in your calculations.
Personally, I would look throughthe Vendors on the board here, get in touch with a few of them and see what the recommend for your future plans.
Even if you stay with a cam with good street manners, a well thought out stll converter will make as big of a difference as the cam itself.
Also, because cost is quite affordable per power gained maybe sonsider at least sending your heads out to a porter, Advanced Inductions, Ed Curtis, Etc and having them reworked. Affordable and big gains.
Goats are great cars, if a bit quirky at times, but very well built.
Good luck with your purchase, and keep us updated.
--Glenn
There are most likely some knowledegable A4 gurus on here that can get you pointed inthe right direction.
However, your goals and parts combo maynot be exactly the same as theirs.
Stalled Autos can be a big boondoggle if you make a mistake somewhere in your calculations.
Personally, I would look throughthe Vendors on the board here, get in touch with a few of them and see what the recommend for your future plans.
Even if you stay with a cam with good street manners, a well thought out stll converter will make as big of a difference as the cam itself.
Also, because cost is quite affordable per power gained maybe sonsider at least sending your heads out to a porter, Advanced Inductions, Ed Curtis, Etc and having them reworked. Affordable and big gains.
Goats are great cars, if a bit quirky at times, but very well built.
Good luck with your purchase, and keep us updated.
--Glenn
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Headers, over the radiator cold air intake, and properly selected cam/stall should clock 11s on drag radials with stock heads. Suggest Ed Curtis for cam and FTI for converter. Tune is a must and will optimize the A4 without needing a shift kit.
GTO is an excellent choice, although I am biased LOL. Not a bad DD, but better as a weekend/nice day car IMO. Good luck with the car search.
GTO is an excellent choice, although I am biased LOL. Not a bad DD, but better as a weekend/nice day car IMO. Good luck with the car search.
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Thanks guys. I would love to DD it lol, but I work for a commercial HVAC company, so I have a Chevy work van. I've never had a car that I tried to work on, always had trucks. Now I just want to go faster, and some decent handling wouldn't kill me. Yeah I was reading that some where gaining .5 with just a stall, so I figure some LT's catless mids (I don't get emission tested), muffler swap (for sound), Vararam, UD pulley, with a mild cam and tune would be an awesome start. Since it will be more of a weekend car, I'm thing about running DR's on the back all the time, I just conflicting remarks on what is the largest size to fit. I'll have to look into contacting a vendor. I know I remember their is somewhere in Tampa that does porting and dyno tuning, can't remember who
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With a 3200 stall, the Texas Speed 228 cam would work quite nice if you are looking for fairly mild with some good punch. Headers, exhaust, UD pulley, intake, tune, etc. for supporting mods as you mentioned are all a good plan.
I don't think you really need a shift kit as long as your tuner takes off the TM. You can play with shift RPM, shift pressures, and shift quickness in the tune. Also the TC lockup parameters are done in the tune.
If you haven't done any suspension mods, you might consider the basics there. Check to see if your rear springs are sagging. At the very least, get drag bags if you plan on heading to the track.
Tire size, that gets a little tricky. What fits on one car might not fit an another. I ran Nitto 275-40-17 drag radials on stock 17" wheels and had no trouble with rub, supposedly they run a little narrow compared to other tire brands. I changed wheels and mounted Mickey Thompson 275-40-17 and had to grind the inner fender lip to fit them.
I don't think you really need a shift kit as long as your tuner takes off the TM. You can play with shift RPM, shift pressures, and shift quickness in the tune. Also the TC lockup parameters are done in the tune.
If you haven't done any suspension mods, you might consider the basics there. Check to see if your rear springs are sagging. At the very least, get drag bags if you plan on heading to the track.
Tire size, that gets a little tricky. What fits on one car might not fit an another. I ran Nitto 275-40-17 drag radials on stock 17" wheels and had no trouble with rub, supposedly they run a little narrow compared to other tire brands. I changed wheels and mounted Mickey Thompson 275-40-17 and had to grind the inner fender lip to fit them.
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Ok, I think I'll try those Nitto's as those are the 275's I see people talking about the most. I also saw a Pedder stock height spring someone used to fix his sagging springs, may do that just to make sure I don't have the sag and the tires will fit. I know the radius rod bushing and maybe a subframe bushing kit are a good idea. I'll have to find the drag bags too, apparently they are good for the wheel hop. I forgot GM motors have all this tuning capability. I guess their is no need for a shift kit lol. Thanks man, I will look into that cam, and maybe just go ahead and plan on getting it lol.
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I would not do both drag bags and Pedders springs, although I have seen people do that. Just one or the other should be ok.
Yeah, you need valve springs for any cam that is bigger than stock. If you get that cam from Texas Speed, they offer a cam and spring kit that also includes cam, springs, and hardened pushrods. The single springs is all you need for that cam.
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/cate...MID=9&catid=49
Yeah, you need valve springs for any cam that is bigger than stock. If you get that cam from Texas Speed, they offer a cam and spring kit that also includes cam, springs, and hardened pushrods. The single springs is all you need for that cam.
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/cate...MID=9&catid=49
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Thanks man. So it sounds like just drag bags. Thanks for keeping me from spending extra money. Also, thanks for the heads up on the cam. I read some reviews and watched some videos of people with that cam, and it seems very impressive and just about as good as I can get for what I want.