2006 gto @ ams
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2006 gto @ ams
We got this 15K mile 06 GTO in for a clutch, shifter and linelock and then added a few things due to finding the front struts blown, strut rub and front rotors warped.
LS7 clutch and flywheel
GM slave w/ shim
AMS remote clutch bleeder line
Ripshift with race handle
SJM Linelock w/ unpgraded Hurst cord
DBA rotors
Hawk pads
AMS braided brake lines
** cleaned/detailed calipers
** cleaned and painted caliper brackets
flush and bleed system using Motul 600
Pedders Street II suspension kit
**front struts with new mounts and bearings, rear shocks, F 1/2 lowering springs / R 3/8 lowering springs, diff. bushing, rear subframe bushings, front radius / adj. bushings & strut tower brace
few pics during and after the install ( excuse the wheel wells..pics before wash )
The car sits nice, drives nicely and handles much better now. The next round we are looking at an FI combo, Kooks w/ offroad mids, DMH cutouts and dyno tune
LS7 clutch and flywheel
GM slave w/ shim
AMS remote clutch bleeder line
Ripshift with race handle
SJM Linelock w/ unpgraded Hurst cord
DBA rotors
Hawk pads
AMS braided brake lines
** cleaned/detailed calipers
** cleaned and painted caliper brackets
flush and bleed system using Motul 600
Pedders Street II suspension kit
**front struts with new mounts and bearings, rear shocks, F 1/2 lowering springs / R 3/8 lowering springs, diff. bushing, rear subframe bushings, front radius / adj. bushings & strut tower brace
few pics during and after the install ( excuse the wheel wells..pics before wash )
The car sits nice, drives nicely and handles much better now. The next round we are looking at an FI combo, Kooks w/ offroad mids, DMH cutouts and dyno tune
#6
We got this 15K mile 06 GTO in for a clutch, shifter and linelock and then added a few things due to finding the front struts blown, strut rub and front rotors warped.
LS7 clutch and flywheel
GM slave w/ shim
AMS remote clutch bleeder line
Ripshift with race handle
SJM Linelock w/ unpgraded Hurst cord
DBA rotors
Hawk pads
AMS braided brake lines
** cleaned/detailed calipers
** cleaned and painted caliper brackets
flush and bleed system using Motul 600
Pedders Street II suspension kit
**front struts with new mounts and bearings, rear shocks, F 1/2 lowering springs / R 3/8 lowering springs, diff. bushing, rear subframe bushings, front radius / adj. bushings & strut tower brace
few pics during and after the install ( excuse the wheel wells..pics before wash )
The car sits nice, drives nicely and handles much better now. The next round we are looking at an FI combo, Kooks w/ offroad mids, DMH cutouts and dyno tune
LS7 clutch and flywheel
GM slave w/ shim
AMS remote clutch bleeder line
Ripshift with race handle
SJM Linelock w/ unpgraded Hurst cord
DBA rotors
Hawk pads
AMS braided brake lines
** cleaned/detailed calipers
** cleaned and painted caliper brackets
flush and bleed system using Motul 600
Pedders Street II suspension kit
**front struts with new mounts and bearings, rear shocks, F 1/2 lowering springs / R 3/8 lowering springs, diff. bushing, rear subframe bushings, front radius / adj. bushings & strut tower brace
few pics during and after the install ( excuse the wheel wells..pics before wash )
The car sits nice, drives nicely and handles much better now. The next round we are looking at an FI combo, Kooks w/ offroad mids, DMH cutouts and dyno tune
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Shims are needed (or not needed) to start the slave piston at the proper distance from the pressure plate fingers. The slave being a hydraulic system like the brakes self-adjusts but if it's too far away to start with it can cause the piston on the slave to over extend its throw causing fluid seal failure. The only way to know is to do measurements before reassembling.
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Shims are needed (or not needed) to start the slave piston at the proper distance from the pressure plate fingers. The slave being a hydraulic system like the brakes self-adjusts but if it's too far away to start with it can cause the piston on the slave to over extend its throw causing fluid seal failure. The only way to know is to do measurements before reassembling.
The shim used most often with the LS7 clutch for proper engagement is approx .115" thick.