I'm trying to order a bell housing alignment tool for my GTO, they asked for the bell housing opening and crank register size, is this information I can get from the factory specs?

 

Not any normal specs. I didn't know you could put it on out of alignment. I've had mine on and off 8 times.

 

I never heard of a bell housing alignment tool. Are you sure that you don't mean the clutch alignment tool? Walt and I have had my bell housing off and on 3 times and never needed any tool to align it.

 

Yeah look up Browellbellhousing.com , but unfortunately they do not offer one large enough for the stock Tremec housing. Most people probably don't check the bell housing alignment but it's critical for the long life of your input shaft / bearings and pilot bushing / bearing. If I was using a pilot bearing I would definitely check it, I believe the spec is .003

 

I wouldn't worry about it because it's doweled and you would not be able to align it once it's on. Tell me more about what you have and what you're trying to do. Most people use a QuickTime bell housing or QuickTime bell housing with inspection plate.

 

Stock bell should be fine. Adjustable dowels can be bought should you want to pursue this with a custom made tool or dial indicator method.
You always want to check aftermarket units. The thing with them is, most have paint or Powdercoat that will interfere with a true reading unless it's carefully removed.

 

Yeah its been proven though that GM was horribly inconsistent with casting and a stock housing on stock dowels more times than not is out of spec, unfortunately I put the cart before the horse and already have offset dowels. I have a dial indicator and magnetic base, I'm going to check the stock alignment the old fashioned way ha! The Browell tool would have been significantly easier but that's how it goes I suppose!

 

Old small n big blocks had much more casting variances than new motors, but in the end , you'll never know till u check. If your input shaft isn't ultra tight and has normal movement, that will alleviate trouble too. Good luck- let us know.

 

There are thousands, upon thousands of GM cars running around without this alignment. I think you're reading too-much into it.

 

Yes I'm sure your right with that ^ , and my input shaft play is withing spec so I'm confident. It's just one of those things you don't want to happen then beat yourself up for, I think it's going to be ok. Once the damn bushing comes in I'll update the thread.

 

You'll likely be fine. Just to be clear, I meant radial play, not end play. Be careful and make sure you get a true bronze bush. The bronze bushes are usually oil impregnated and will survive the ride the longest. Most new bushes are Chinese crap and dark in color. If a magnet sticks to it, stay away from it. If you end up with a true bronze unit, a tiny bit of high end grease is a good idea.

 

I ordered a Mcloed Oilite , for $23 bucks vs the $5 parts store unit it better be good. A magnet DOES stick to my current "bronze" bushing

 

Good luck to you. I would never touch anything mcleod, never again. I had two of their twins and both blew up within 500 miles or so. Both were way out of balance.

They were not accommodating and it cost lots of $$$$ to clean up. They were good many years ago prior to big buy out.

Look it over closely, especially if you know what to look for.

 

They are not rated for 1000+rwhp cars so either lower the power/boost or buy a better clutch.

 

Well I can only comment on the bushing and I ended up returning it to JEGS, was super magnetic, strong enough to hold up my telescoping magnet wand :/

 

I had the street twin, not the low level twin everyone is purchasing; I think that's the rsx or something. The street twin is rated over 1000 horse. Also, I was making about 600 at the time. There was no excuse for the failure imo.

I'll see if I can find a link on the true street twin.

 

http://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/clutch-kits.html

Here it is Jon, scroll to the bottom of the page. Handles up to 1200 hp. It's nearly twice the cost of rst line.

 

Ls2fd3s, check Napa #BK 6151161. This may be it, go have a look at it. They have a cheap version and a good one, usually. This should be the good one.

 

I have the RXT twin disk clutch and it works great. I do get chatter sometimes because I only drive in New York City traffic, but a clutch dump will fix it. The traffic here is unbelievable and now they have a 25 mph speed limit city wide; sucks.

 

Yes, I've heard some success stories with it. I was around early prototypes and mods n drilling were required even on production pieces for some time. I hear that is done as of late. Still, after what I experienced, along with the vendor who lost lots of $$$, I would never deal with them. There is no excuse to sell a high performance clutch that is so far off balance out of the box. The other twins I've been around have never been off more than a few gram out of the box.

To piggy back on what you said- I know your pain, traffic stinks here as well, especially on the west side. It's part of big city life. You could get lots of relief if you get the rst organic discs. They don't get so sticky when hot. Heavier flywheel helps too. I'm at 30 lbs on my assembly but i have a hybrid disc which helps.