17x11 ZR1's on all 4 corners?...advice needed
#21
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Or I could just use street tires and concern myself with my driving ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I don't like to switch parts or trailer cars for track use. I think there's more to be said for a car that you can drive to the track, race it, be competitive and fast, and drive it home without any changes except maybe air pressure or suspension stiffness.
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I don't like to switch parts or trailer cars for track use. I think there's more to be said for a car that you can drive to the track, race it, be competitive and fast, and drive it home without any changes except maybe air pressure or suspension stiffness.
Good luck on whatever you decide.
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My first autox 4 years ago was on an old set of worn out street tires and it was fun. The following season I picked up a set of 17x9.5 wheels with used Toyo RA-1s mounted on them and they were better than the street tires, but aren't really an autox tire. Last year I finally stepped up to 17x11 with some well used V710's and that was a huge step up in grip. This season I'll be on my first brand new set of V710's or A6's and can't wait to see the level of grip they offer.
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Or I could just use street tires and concern myself with my driving ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I don't like to switch parts or trailer cars for track use. I think there's more to be said for a car that you can drive to the track, race it, be competitive and fast, and drive it home without any changes except maybe air pressure or suspension stiffness.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I don't like to switch parts or trailer cars for track use. I think there's more to be said for a car that you can drive to the track, race it, be competitive and fast, and drive it home without any changes except maybe air pressure or suspension stiffness.
I'd say even if you don't have similar street tire classing in your area, run for fun, the way you want.
#25
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This will be my 2nd year of autocross...last year was with my BMW and I was very successful as a novice. I also want to look into running some road courses but it probably won't be for another year or two.
Part of me says - do it once, do it right (17x11s). The other side of me wants to explore other options like R-comps, etc. I'm torn right now and will rely on more info that I'll try to dig up to help with that.
Part of me says - do it once, do it right (17x11s). The other side of me wants to explore other options like R-comps, etc. I'm torn right now and will rely on more info that I'll try to dig up to help with that.
#27
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I just found this picture. That is my friend Casey Quinn, he races his 98 SS in SM (#55 in Street Modified) in autocross. Those are 315 all around btw.
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I kinda forgot to take that into consideration.....I'd probably stick to a street tire then. I was thinking along the lines of the car evolving, but a convertible F-body isn't going to be a great platform to build on. Get some 17x11's and put a good street tire on and have fun.
#30
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If you're dead set on street tires, at least get them shaved. They'll actually last longer. The car will just destroy a full tread street tire in short order (especially with an inexperienced driver).
Knowing what street tires are like to drive in this sport... if I were you, I'd really, really consider a small Harbor Freight utility trailer to tow a set of cheaper, longer lasting, lesser performance R comps (Victoracers come to mind) and tools to the events. The utility trailer deal is an extremely common thing to do even over great distances.
To each his own however.
Knowing what street tires are like to drive in this sport... if I were you, I'd really, really consider a small Harbor Freight utility trailer to tow a set of cheaper, longer lasting, lesser performance R comps (Victoracers come to mind) and tools to the events. The utility trailer deal is an extremely common thing to do even over great distances.
To each his own however.
#32
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All r-comps are not the same, some are faster some are slower. That's the first thing to realize.
Street tires are not as fast as R-comps. Whoever said that a 275 R is better than a 315 street (even a killer one) is right on they money.
Fit: Ironhead summed it up best, and he should know as he's been through all this. YMMV, and what Joe does might not work for Billy. Hell even changing tire brands in the same size could cause a change to offset/spacers.
PHB. The person asking this questions has a Hotchkis PHB which is urethane bushed and not nearly good enough to deal with 11" wheels and R-comps as there will be way too much deflection. At minimum he needs to step up to a race PHB with double rod-ends. And if you look closely at the pic of the red Camaro you see the LR tire tucked but the RR stuck out more. This is due to the inherent arc that a PHB moves in. Change to Watts link and you won't want as much offset/spacer because the tire will start to run the fender since you don't have that lateral motion.
I run 40mm offset wheels currently. No spacer on front, but I still run about 5mm on the rear, effectively making them about 35mm. But I can tell you those spacers are mostly likely gone when the Watts is put.
Street tires are not as fast as R-comps. Whoever said that a 275 R is better than a 315 street (even a killer one) is right on they money.
Fit: Ironhead summed it up best, and he should know as he's been through all this. YMMV, and what Joe does might not work for Billy. Hell even changing tire brands in the same size could cause a change to offset/spacers.
PHB. The person asking this questions has a Hotchkis PHB which is urethane bushed and not nearly good enough to deal with 11" wheels and R-comps as there will be way too much deflection. At minimum he needs to step up to a race PHB with double rod-ends. And if you look closely at the pic of the red Camaro you see the LR tire tucked but the RR stuck out more. This is due to the inherent arc that a PHB moves in. Change to Watts link and you won't want as much offset/spacer because the tire will start to run the fender since you don't have that lateral motion.
I run 40mm offset wheels currently. No spacer on front, but I still run about 5mm on the rear, effectively making them about 35mm. But I can tell you those spacers are mostly likely gone when the Watts is put.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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that doesnt mean **** if anything breaks, you get into an accident, or you overheat your brakes on a track day and lose them completely on the ride home. also, say goodbye to your power steering pump after ONE or TWO autoxs. moreso with slicks. autox/road racing probably puts more stress on cars then drag racing does, espeically with slicks.
#34
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that doesnt mean **** if anything breaks, you get into an accident, or you overheat your brakes on a track day and lose them completely on the ride home. also, say goodbye to your power steering pump after ONE or TWO autoxs. moreso with slicks. autox/road racing probably puts more stress on cars then drag racing does, espeically with slicks.
As I've said before, I welcome the challenge that that brings me.
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