Oil level, cooler, and Accusump experience
08-03-2009, 06:10 PM
#22
I use a 119FP
Oil temps went from "I dunno, the gauge only goes to 300* to 280* this past weekend with near 100* ambient temps.
I hate Mobil 1 oil. When temps get to 280+, the oil thins out too much for my comfort zone. I know some who swear its the greatest thing ever. I have changed to AmsOil 20W50 severe duty racing oil and my oil pressure varies only about 10psi regardless of temps.
08-04-2009, 11:35 AM
#24
It was just too damn hot to get motivated to take any video.
I wound up in some great, wheel to wheel action with several competitors. And was able to set a new personal best ... but that is still a couple seconds or so off the track record.
I think I wound up with a 3rd, two 4ths and a fifth.
But, even in 100* ambient, water temps never got above 210 and oil temps peaked at 280. Water temps went to 180 and oil temps dropped to 240 on the cool down lap.
I wound up in some great, wheel to wheel action with several competitors. And was able to set a new personal best ... but that is still a couple seconds or so off the track record.
I think I wound up with a 3rd, two 4ths and a fifth.
But, even in 100* ambient, water temps never got above 210 and oil temps peaked at 280. Water temps went to 180 and oil temps dropped to 240 on the cool down lap.
08-04-2009, 12:09 PM
#25
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I am running GC right now because I knew I probably wouldn't have time to get to any track days this season. It's a great oil and I'm pretty sure it improved my oil pressure, however I'm not sure I would trust it for track duty. Even though it's 0w30, it's been mentioned a bunch on BITOG that it's properties make similar to a 5w30.
I had Penz Plat 10w30 in the car last year when I was at Watkins Glen with the SCDA and the oil analysis from Blackstone Labs came back pretty positive. I would use Penz Plat any day over Mobil 1 but that's just my opinion.
I had Penz Plat 10w30 in the car last year when I was at Watkins Glen with the SCDA and the oil analysis from Blackstone Labs came back pretty positive. I would use Penz Plat any day over Mobil 1 but that's just my opinion.
08-06-2009, 07:02 AM
#27
First of all, use Aeroquip fittings. They are indexable so that you don't have to worry about getting the proper angle on the hose during assembly.
Second, take the fitting to a local hydraulilc line building shop and show them the fitting so that you get the correct size ID hose.
Third, get hose that has a protective sheath over the outside of the braid. Grit and grime will work its way through the steel braid and them become sandpaper on the inner hose.
Fourth, you will need ~15' of line. That will be MORE than enough. You can always cut shorter ... it's very difficult to add. I ran lines from the filter area to the old battery locatin and I used two 7' lengths.
The thing to rmember here is the minimum bend radius on this hose. You just can't make a 90* turn. Long, weeping turns use up a lot of line.
Fifth ... use adell clamps and not just a bunch of zip ties. These lines are stupid close to hot exhaust, spinning steering knuckles and rotating belts and this is your engine lubricant we're talking about here.
Sixth ... if the cooler is higher than the engine port feeding it, then, over time, the cooler will "drain back" into the block, giving you that few seconds of running with the gauge reading zero oil pressure. If the cooler is level with or lower than the port, then you will seldom get an air bubble.
Seventh ... there are 2 types of sandwhich adaptors (if this is the way you chose to go). Oil to the cooler BEFORE the filter or AFTER the filter. I suggest the filter before the cooler. Deposits, sedimant and residue can collect and build up in the U-tubes of the cooler if the oil is unfiltered. If you have a magnetic drain plug, that's the kind of "dust" that can collect over time.
Second, take the fitting to a local hydraulilc line building shop and show them the fitting so that you get the correct size ID hose.
Third, get hose that has a protective sheath over the outside of the braid. Grit and grime will work its way through the steel braid and them become sandpaper on the inner hose.
Fourth, you will need ~15' of line. That will be MORE than enough. You can always cut shorter ... it's very difficult to add. I ran lines from the filter area to the old battery locatin and I used two 7' lengths.
The thing to rmember here is the minimum bend radius on this hose. You just can't make a 90* turn. Long, weeping turns use up a lot of line.
Fifth ... use adell clamps and not just a bunch of zip ties. These lines are stupid close to hot exhaust, spinning steering knuckles and rotating belts and this is your engine lubricant we're talking about here.
Sixth ... if the cooler is higher than the engine port feeding it, then, over time, the cooler will "drain back" into the block, giving you that few seconds of running with the gauge reading zero oil pressure. If the cooler is level with or lower than the port, then you will seldom get an air bubble.
Seventh ... there are 2 types of sandwhich adaptors (if this is the way you chose to go). Oil to the cooler BEFORE the filter or AFTER the filter. I suggest the filter before the cooler. Deposits, sedimant and residue can collect and build up in the U-tubes of the cooler if the oil is unfiltered. If you have a magnetic drain plug, that's the kind of "dust" that can collect over time.
08-12-2009, 05:44 PM
#29
Heads up I'm selling my brand new accusump system. Put a thread in the classifieds. Prices negotiable. Everything needed to install into a car brackets, tees, etc. Also got a setrab oil cooler as well. Pm if interested.
Last edited by SSmokin99SS; 08-12-2009 at 06:55 PM.
