Anyone running bigger than a 346ci for Road Racing?
11-23-2003, 01:08 PM
#1
Anyone running bigger than a 346ci for Road Racing? I am in between 382ci Stroker and 409ci Iron Block. The car is going to have nitrous on it for the weekend street races, but I want to know which would be better for road racing? I know the iron block is going to add around 100lbs, but I figured I could offset that with K-member, lower control arms, lighter battery, and lighter rotors and calipers. I am hoping for 465rwhp with the 382ci Stroker and close to 500rwhp for the 409ci iron block. Game plan is to go to Sebring and keep up with the Vipers in the straights.. 
11-25-2003, 12:53 AM
#6
When it comes to brakes.....you want them BIG for road racing. Small brakes....no way. Large cubes are great but when you build a motor to handle the abuses of road racing you cant do it half assed. You have to use top shelf parts (i.e. $$$$). Your motor will see 10X if not more stress than a motor that takes a 11 second hit of nitrous. thats just my opinion though.
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11-25-2003, 09:47 PM
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have never seen Aero space setup, But if the rotorsare lighter, caliper lighter and smaller , and pads smaller and limited in compound . It looks like a recipe for disaster.
At the time I got the biggest street setup that would fit inside my 17 rims, Heres isa pict of the rear caliper which is just a little smaller than the front. thepads in the back dwarf the the stock pads in size and thickness. The same can be said for the front as well
At the time I got the biggest street setup that would fit inside my 17 rims, Heres isa pict of the rear caliper which is just a little smaller than the front. thepads in the back dwarf the the stock pads in size and thickness. The same can be said for the front as well
11-26-2003, 09:25 PM
#13
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Hi Gentlemen,
My kit was from Movit in Germany, I've had the rear since 2000, front since 99. This is just my opinion , most folks won't need the set up for the rear. stricly over kill inless you really want to ripp up some road courses.
The price was 2700USD USD installed . The park brake setup was 800USD and the GT2 option was an extra 300USD. Standard rear kits come with the GT3/ turbo Monoblocks. The total front and back was 5000 installed .
My kit was from Movit in Germany, I've had the rear since 2000, front since 99. This is just my opinion , most folks won't need the set up for the rear. stricly over kill inless you really want to ripp up some road courses.
The price was 2700USD USD installed . The park brake setup was 800USD and the GT2 option was an extra 300USD. Standard rear kits come with the GT3/ turbo Monoblocks. The total front and back was 5000 installed .
11-28-2003, 11:18 PM
#14
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More mass is better for braking performance up to a point. I think going "lighter" with rotors and calipers would be a bad idea. Especially if your adding the 80lbs from a Fe block.Yes, the loss of rotational weight is fanastic for acceleration but, the ability to dissipate heat is very important to breaking performance. If you can drop alot of weight all over going with lighter brake components wouldn't be so bad.
I think the corner speed and balance you'll probably lose due to additional front end weight will offset the additional power you'd make with a 409 (vs. the 382).Although the balance issue could be tuned out with work.
If you want to keep up with vipers on the straights get out of the corner better. You'll see better times getting off the corners properly than you would trying to muscle your way down the straight after a bad exit.
When I roadrace my bike w/friends I tend to be able to get on the power alot sooner with my V-twin Honda than they do with their ultra powerful I-4's (GSXR1000 and R1) My bike made around 105-108 last time I hit the track and my buddies GSXR put 148 to the wheel. I consistently beat him from 7 to the finish at Blackhawk Farms even though I was making ALOT less HP.Getting the power down is key. You can't do that if your pushing through the whole corner.
That's my opinion anyway.
I think the corner speed and balance you'll probably lose due to additional front end weight will offset the additional power you'd make with a 409 (vs. the 382).Although the balance issue could be tuned out with work.
If you want to keep up with vipers on the straights get out of the corner better. You'll see better times getting off the corners properly than you would trying to muscle your way down the straight after a bad exit.
When I roadrace my bike w/friends I tend to be able to get on the power alot sooner with my V-twin Honda than they do with their ultra powerful I-4's (GSXR1000 and R1) My bike made around 105-108 last time I hit the track and my buddies GSXR put 148 to the wheel. I consistently beat him from 7 to the finish at Blackhawk Farms even though I was making ALOT less HP.Getting the power down is key. You can't do that if your pushing through the whole corner.
That's my opinion anyway.
11-29-2003, 02:55 PM
#15
You guys have give me some things to think about.. I will stick with the brakes I have then and lighten the car up in other places. I just want to maintain a nice ride like I currently have when I am not racing. I currently have revalved bilsteins with eibach pro kit springs. Wheels and tires are 17x9 ZR1's in front and 17x11 ZR1's in back. The car handles like a dream as it sits now. I am just curious on how it would handle with the extra pounds up front? I also have a 35mm S/T sway bar in front.
11-29-2003, 05:18 PM
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If you like the ride quality now lowering the unsprung weight should improve the "ride" characteristics of the vehicle.
My suggestion is that if you do want to run lightweight breaks to contact BAER or Wilwood and let them know what you want. They should be able to recommend the lightest brake package that will work for your combo.
As far as acceleration goes an old rule of thumb is:Every unsprung lb is worth 3 sprung and every rotational lb is worth 15lbs sprung.
From that you can see how important removing that kind of weight is. Only problem being it can be very dangerous to compromise safety/braking for acceleration/handling.
Everything to do with a car is a compromise. What you and I and everyone else that likes to modify has to do is figure out where we can give and where we can't.
good luck!
My suggestion is that if you do want to run lightweight breaks to contact BAER or Wilwood and let them know what you want. They should be able to recommend the lightest brake package that will work for your combo.
As far as acceleration goes an old rule of thumb is:Every unsprung lb is worth 3 sprung and every rotational lb is worth 15lbs sprung.
From that you can see how important removing that kind of weight is. Only problem being it can be very dangerous to compromise safety/braking for acceleration/handling.
Everything to do with a car is a compromise. What you and I and everyone else that likes to modify has to do is figure out where we can give and where we can't.
good luck!
11-30-2003, 08:41 PM
#18
Vince, I like th iron block. If you plan to Road Race more than say, 2-3 times per year and become somewhat of a fanatic, def go aluminum. Ifits more daily driver and pushin the botton, go iron. Anyone who has nitrous uses it 3x more than they planned on. It is a drug. A good one, but its addictive.