urock NO IROC88

iTrader: (4)

So my 4th gen T/A needs brakes no matter what. Since it's going to be my dedicated autox car I want to know what would be the most optimal setup. A C5 big brake conversion vs. upgrading the rotors, pads, and lines. The easiest and by far less complicated route would be to buy the lets say ATE Rotors, hawk pads, and stainless steel lines. But would the one extra inch of surface area you get from the C5 rotors really be that big of a difference?

I'm asking because they are in the same price range...of course I could go Z06, but that's $


Also what conversion bracket would be the best to go with if indeed I did decide to go with the C5 conversion kit.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

Z06 is nothing but red calipers. its exactly the same as a regular C5. save your money.

the brackets are all about the same. there is one particular bracket that doesnt require the spindle to be cut. which one that is i forgot, but i havent heard any big difference in them. its just a hunk of aluminum, and as long as its made to the right specs, they should all be the same. i have a UMI setup from WS6Store, and have no complaints.

depending what what/who you run with, big brakes may change your class. if you dont care about classing, like myself, then do what you want with it.

the money may be a bit of a trade off. you have the cost of the C5 kit, which usually comes with pads/rotors. but then, you have the added braking performance, and for some reason C5 rotors cost HALF what LS1 rotors do. so if you need more rotors, go through them often (you shouldnt), etc, youll actually save money with a C5 kit. although pads are more expensive. the stock LS1 brakes are very good as is, and many people keep them stock. '00 trans ram' road races somewhat professionally with his car, bone stock LS1 brakes other then pads/lines, and never has a brake problem.

urock NO IROC88

iTrader: (4)

I know the C5 Z06 calipers are the same, I meant the C6 Z06.

Really not wanting to cut the spindle, so I guess I need to do some research on which one that is. I've heard kore3 brackets are not the safest for autox/HPDEs as well. I work at a dealer so I get a nice discount on rotors/calipers, guess I would just need lines, brackets and pads correct?

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

C6Z calipers aren't that great..plus they are heavy

I don't see the need in auto-x to upgrade your calipers. I say get better rotors (ATE or other), pads, SS lines, and good fluid and also some quantum cooling ducts and you'll be set.

Mike@ZMS

iTrader: (10)

You can always do the CTS-V swap. Not too horribly expensive and you don't have to cut your spindles.

The Brembo calipers on the V are way better than the C6Z calipers as well. You will need 18" rims with either option so thats a wash.

I personally love my C5 kit. Its a very well balanced kit for our cars, and with the proper pads and rotors that can handle them, they provide more braking force and repeatability than most of us will ever need. Hell, even on a good, fast track day on a big track, with the right pad/rotor combo, I have not experienced any braking issues at all.

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

For autox yes!

A BBK is usually not needed for auto x. Simply put the 98-02 Fbody brakes are excellent and with a few upgrades you'll get the results you're looking for..

With that said stock fbody brakes will not cut it in a RR application, dont be surprised not alot of vehicles brakes come equipped to handle RR.

Stock fbody calipers are gravity cast and are not as strong as the C5 Z06 calipers (pressure cast). Stock calipers would be more likely to spread in a RR application.

Things to consider when going to a BBK:

C6 Z06 calipers - limited pad choices, cost of pads (12 per set), heavy as noted above, limited to running a 18" wheel.

CTS Calipers Brembos - pad price/ availability, huge spacers, limited to running 18" wheel.

Personally I do not know how the choices above will affect the brake bias.

Also as noted above BBK will more than likely re class you into a non competitive class.

I agree brake upgrades are over looked and I'm totally for it, I wish I could run the CTS setup without it's cons noted above, for me the biggest kicker is not able to run the 17" wheels.

I'm running C6 base calipers (revised C5 Z06), C5 12.9" rotors, HPS hawk pads, stainless steel lines, dot4, and trackbrackets. I have the ability to run 17" wheels for street and 18" wheels for autoX.

I've had plenty of compliments on how good the brakes work from folks who go for a ride along.

Brakes have been working great for what I do, and for RR the addition of brake ducts, RR fluid and pads, will probably be enough.

Good luck!

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

just because I love whoring out new pictures:


stock brakes with autozone ceramic pads. that's with 600# front springs too so it takes quite a bit to get the nose to drop. i don't really see a need for anything more than decent pads and fluid for autox. you're not going very fast so you don't need really high speed stopping power and your brakes don't have time to get hot enough to substantially fade.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

damn.....copy my car and now my sig???

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

hahahahah i knew you'd comment on it eventually

urock NO IROC88

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for all the info.

I plan on running in SMST anyways, car is so heavily modded to start with I don't think it will fit in ESP or FSP. Running Hankook Ventus RS-2s 265/35/18 up front and 315/30/18s in the rear, so SSM or SM are also out of the question. I've been autoxing for a while, just wanted some opinions on where to go as far as brakes and what others have experienced.

sweet, just found the trackbrackets, what would be a list of other things I would need besides what I found below. Any cutting of the spindles with the trackbrackets?

I found this as well for parts needed
GM Part # / # needed / Description

12530682 / 1 / Caliper, Guide pin bolts included (standard gray C5)
12530683 / 1 / Caliper, Guide pin bolts included (standard gray C5)
88895128 / 1 / Caliper, Guide pin bolts included (red Z06) OPTIONAL
88895129 / 1 / Caliper, Guide pin bolts included (red Z06) OPTIONAL
10445856 / 1 / Right Rotor (standard factory fitment)
10445857 / 1 / Left Rotor (standard factory fitment)
88925547 / 1 / Right Delco Durastop rotor, lower cost OPTION
88925548 / 1 / Left Delco Durastop rotor, lower cost OPTION
12455799 / 2 / Pad abutment bracket
10333772 / 2 / Front caliper brake hose
12530697 / 4 / Pad abutment guide pin
12530703 / 4 / Guide pin boot
22163795 / 2 / Banjo bolt
10139097 / 4 / Banjo bolt copper washers

CHOICE OF PADS AVAILABLE THROUGH GM DEALERS:
12480154 / 1 / Hawk HP+ front axle pad set (does NOT include anti-rattle springs or pad abutment shims)
88909667 / 1 / Durastop Ceramic front axle pad set (includes springs & shims)
88952008 / 1 / Z06 front axle pad set - RECOMMENDED - (includes springs & shims)

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

Yep, no going back, but since when has that stopped you from modding

The parts list sounds like a lot but it's actually really straight forward once you get in there.

If you go with C5 or C6 calipers you'll be content and save some cash. Plus with the trackbrackets you still have 2 choices of upgrades.

You could go to Z51 PABs which allow you to run the 13.4 Z51 rotors or move up to the C6 Z06 calipers. Of course say bye bye to 17" wheels.

urock NO IROC88

iTrader: (4)

haha tis true.

Anyone have part #s for C6 Calipers and C6 Z51 calipers. Any suggestions on brake lines? sorry for all the questions. Search on here is retarded.

+ I just dropped a ton of cash on new wheels and tires. 18s all around so not a big deal.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I recently purchased a CTS-V and I gotta say ... those 4 piston Brembos are nice.

I had never inspected a set before. Don't discount these calipers.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I got my C5 adapter brackets from LG and didn't have to cut anything. Not that it's a big deal, but it's just the route I took.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

stock LS1 spindles can be found easily enough to replace if you ever wanted to

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

No doubt. I was just offering an example of a bracket that was available that didn't require you to cut anything, that's all.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

If you have the means, go with the C6Z51s (no part # sorry). They are bigger/beefier and will last much longer than the other C5 versions.

With that said, I race on stock calipers and I cannot for the life of me figure out why the hell anyone would put POS Corvette calipers on ANYTHING. C5 style calipers I would spread them after 3 weekends; throw them in the trash. The C6Z51 calipers (same pad as the C5 calipers) I've yet to spread after 1.5 weekends, but the temps I've recorded are insane and high enough that an engineer has confirmed the metals in the caliper are breaking down and are no longer stiff; so spreading is only a matter of time. This is with brake cooling and very aggressive race pads and Castrol SRF fluid. I'm just barely NOT boiling the fluid. Rotor temps of ~1425*F and caliper temps of ~490*F (the alloy breaks down starting at about 350* I believe)

Will these work for auto-x? Yes. Would I want to take them to the track for even an HPDE? No. I use them because I have to per the rules; fortunately the rules changed this year and I'm waiting for AP to finish a bespoke (one-off) 4 pot caliper they are designing for us (SCCA T-1 Corvettes). Corvette calipers are a ticking time bomb waiting to go off; and it did go off. 2 drivers had to be air-lifted from the Runoffs last year and 1 had to be put into an induced coma because his injuries were so bad (he's recovering very well). That's what caused SCCA to allow us aftermarket 4 piston calipers..

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

Good Info......I wonder how the AP stuff is going to hold up.

Please show off your new setup and data when you get those on.

urock NO IROC88

iTrader: (4)

Well that's just insane, the vehicle is mainly going to be an AutoX rat/show car/and I would like to take it to some HPDEs. If I ever go into road racing SCCA/NASA --it's going to be in my Honda. Parts are cheap, plentiful, and easy to find. It was my autox car until I blew a massive hole in the tranny whilst drag racing. I guess 12lbs of boost was too much for a stock D16 tranny lol. Got a replacement trans for $100, used Exedy clutch for $150, and LSD for $50. Trans Am has been a huge project and ultimately I would rather be autoxing it.

I might just call up our Chevy sister store for a price on parts for the Z51 calipers..what lines would guys recommend even if I went with upgrading stock rotors and pads or doing the conversion? Also any different bolts, banjos, etc for the C6Z51?

urock NO IROC88

iTrader: (4)

Oh and I love the new rule in SCCA now that a forced induction car automatically makes your car have double the displacement.