Any heating/brake fade issues with Fbodies?
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I'm more of a motorcycle guy, but if I get to the track and conditions are less than idea or the bike is acting up, I'd like to go run around in the car (2000 Z28, M6, bone stock).
Does the thing cool itself off pretty well? My bigger concern is brake fade. I'll obviously bleed the brakes and put some good fluid in it, but I'm not looking to do a whole brake upgrade. Only modifications I foresee are subframe connectors.
Does the thing cool itself off pretty well? My bigger concern is brake fade. I'll obviously bleed the brakes and put some good fluid in it, but I'm not looking to do a whole brake upgrade. Only modifications I foresee are subframe connectors.
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SFC are just something I'm getting to stiffen the chassis and avoid the glorious GM squeak more than anything. Body roll is a bitch anyway.
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They also have nothing to do with body roll as that is from suspension, not the chassis.
If you are looking to make the car feel all around more solid (like 1 piece), and less jarring/jittery, floaty and disconnected your problem is shocks. The decarbon shocks from the factory are horrible and IMO make the car down right dangerous at times to drive aggressively. Its all in the valving.
Replace with some good performance shocks and you will be blown away at the difference you will feel.
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I have only done a few HPDE sessions there and, like Mitch said, it's hard on brakes. Many of the braking zones are on the back side of a hill. It's bumpy too. I and the car like MSR much better.
#9
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Like everyone says a good pad it shouldn't be a problem.
Once I got went out on a session just to do a few laps with some street pads, it was prety bad. They where fading pretty bad got back to the paddock & checked them, looked like they melted.
Now I just run carbotech's all the time
Once I got went out on a session just to do a few laps with some street pads, it was prety bad. They where fading pretty bad got back to the paddock & checked them, looked like they melted.
Now I just run carbotech's all the time
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Once you get fast enough, at stock weight and stock LSx or higher power levels, you will get fast enough that you destroy the stock size rotors, and C5 rotors aren't much better.
Either take a bunch of weight out, or get big brakes. Ducts will help either way.
Either take a bunch of weight out, or get big brakes. Ducts will help either way.
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What about coolant? Any cooling issues with the engine?
I can't drive worth a ****. I'll just got out there to learn a bit and mess around on a car only day when I can't take my bike (****, they're all free for me a a member). I'm honestly thinking of getting autozone replacements with lifetime warranty and getting new ones after every track day. I'm not looking to do anything but have a little fun out there and improve as a driver.
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I've never been a fan of Hawk brake pads for a track car.
Having said that, I did install HPS pads on my Caddy for a weekend's play at Harris Hill. I had no issues at all with them.
Trey, myself and a couple friends are going to MSR-Cresson on October 23/24 for the 1.7 clockwise. You should come out and play ...
Having said that, I did install HPS pads on my Caddy for a weekend's play at Harris Hill. I had no issues at all with them.
Trey, myself and a couple friends are going to MSR-Cresson on October 23/24 for the 1.7 clockwise. You should come out and play ...
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I've never been a fan of Hawk brake pads for a track car.
Having said that, I did install HPS pads on my Caddy for a weekend's play at Harris Hill. I had no issues at all with them.
Trey, myself and a couple friends are going to MSR-Cresson on October 23/24 for the 1.7 clockwise. You should come out and play ...
Having said that, I did install HPS pads on my Caddy for a weekend's play at Harris Hill. I had no issues at all with them.
Trey, myself and a couple friends are going to MSR-Cresson on October 23/24 for the 1.7 clockwise. You should come out and play ...
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I took my car to the Grattan, MI course this weekend. I put DOT 4 fluid in but after I learned how to drive a little bit I noticed my pedal was real soft and a few times it vibrated while i pushed it down. A couple times of that and I decided to drive slower. I am running the cheap pads/rotors. I don't have much experience with road courses but I would say if you want to run decent times in our cars get some good brakes. I don't know what to get, though. I would like a good upgrade that I can count on every time to stop 500 rwhp car that see's the track 4x per year with average driving skills, whatever that is. Maybe 2 piece rotors, stainless lines and Hawk pads. Some instructors told me to get the Hawk HP+ pads. I don't know about the calipers - are the factory ones ok?
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I am running Power Slot rotors, Hawk HP+ pads, and DOT4 fluid. All else is stock. That has served me well for several HPDEs. I am now thinking about getting some Carbotech pads for tracks days. Regular old parts store pads just don't cut it.