aside from shocks - what is the #1 suspension upgrade for road racing?
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Staging Lane
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aside from shocks - what is the #1 suspension upgrade for road racing?
what would you consider #1 suspension upgrade that I will notice improvement aside from shocks & struts ? Also, are any other parts recommend to be installed when upgrading from stock shocks & struts?
Thanks in advance for your help !
Tom Sullivan
Ellenton, FL
Thanks in advance for your help !
Tom Sullivan
Ellenton, FL
Last edited by bossho; 10-28-2010 at 01:11 PM.
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anyone else? additional feedback / suggestions appreciated.
Sooooooo.....? Aside from tires/shocks & struts the consensus
is Sam Strano front & rear sway bars are best modification to
improve suspension & handling for 4th gen that primary use is
road racing with little (if any) track use?
Sooooooo.....? Aside from tires/shocks & struts the consensus
is Sam Strano front & rear sway bars are best modification to
improve suspension & handling for 4th gen that primary use is
road racing with little (if any) track use?
Last edited by bossho; 10-28-2010 at 07:02 PM.
#9
Staging Lane
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The advice already given is valid, though if you are considering road racing (no track? by road racing do you mean just aggressive driving? road racing usually involves a circuit track...) you should also consider reinforcing the chassis with atleast a strut tower brace and/or subframe connectors (surprised they weren't mentioned, but then again tires are #1 so...), both should give a noticeable difference especially with a suspension stiffened with aftermarket shocks/struts.
#10
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STB isn't really a necessary item for an fbody....they don't have struts, they have coil over shocks, so most of the stresses are put through the lower a-arm, which goes through the k-member. Some swear by them, and some say they're 5 lbs. of dead weight that you can lean on when you're working on the engine.
As far as SFC's go, that's another debate. A search on these (STB's and SFC's) and you'll see that many live by them, and many say they're not necessary again. A lot of autox/roadrace people say that you should upgrade other things first before you work on chassis stiffening. You may upgrade your shocks and think you need more stiffening, or you may upgrade the shocks and see that the factory short coming of these cars is the lack of dampening control, which makes these cars feel a lot looser than they actually are. As one person on this board put it: if it felt like your car was being hit on the bottom by a hammer, would you rather stiffen up the bottom or get rid of the hammer? Upgrading the shocks to something good gets rid of this hammer, and many with built suspensions say that SFC's aren't nearly as noticeable if used, and a STB is completely useless.
As far as SFC's go, that's another debate. A search on these (STB's and SFC's) and you'll see that many live by them, and many say they're not necessary again. A lot of autox/roadrace people say that you should upgrade other things first before you work on chassis stiffening. You may upgrade your shocks and think you need more stiffening, or you may upgrade the shocks and see that the factory short coming of these cars is the lack of dampening control, which makes these cars feel a lot looser than they actually are. As one person on this board put it: if it felt like your car was being hit on the bottom by a hammer, would you rather stiffen up the bottom or get rid of the hammer? Upgrading the shocks to something good gets rid of this hammer, and many with built suspensions say that SFC's aren't nearly as noticeable if used, and a STB is completely useless.
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To add to the above list - front end alignment .........and a 4 point harness.
Do understand, though, that all these things, especially tires, will only hide flaws in your driving if you don't have some experience.......they're like a crutch.
If you don't have any experience with your car on a road course, though, none of anything above would not be my first suggestion - it would be seat time. Get use to the car in its present state (ie stock). This will allow you learn the car, helps you to learn how not to over drive the car once you start adding modifications, gives you a better understanding of how each modification works with the car and will eventually lead to you being able to adjust on the car and feel what makes it better (or worse) for your driving style.
Down the road, posi - the stock ones wear out quickly.
Something to watch - sway bar brackets
I would suggest to check these before and after each event for stresst cracks just as a precaution....wouldn't hurt to purchase a set (stock or reinforced) to keep with you
Good luck, have fun and be safe.
Do understand, though, that all these things, especially tires, will only hide flaws in your driving if you don't have some experience.......they're like a crutch.
If you don't have any experience with your car on a road course, though, none of anything above would not be my first suggestion - it would be seat time. Get use to the car in its present state (ie stock). This will allow you learn the car, helps you to learn how not to over drive the car once you start adding modifications, gives you a better understanding of how each modification works with the car and will eventually lead to you being able to adjust on the car and feel what makes it better (or worse) for your driving style.
Down the road, posi - the stock ones wear out quickly.
Something to watch - sway bar brackets
I would suggest to check these before and after each event for stresst cracks just as a precaution....wouldn't hurt to purchase a set (stock or reinforced) to keep with you
Good luck, have fun and be safe.
Last edited by TheBowtieboy; 10-31-2010 at 09:30 AM.
#13
Before you spend a dime on your car with a bunch of aftermarket parts. Learn to drive.
Calling "Sam" isn't going to help if you haven't learned to drive. Buy seat time not parts for now.
Calling "Sam" isn't going to help if you haven't learned to drive. Buy seat time not parts for now.
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aggressive/spirited driving - canyon carving- often >150mph so definitely interested in safety items aside from tires, 6 pt.roll cage, racing harness, koni yellows, strano springs & sway bars - what would be most important safety / suspension items? - what would improve handing that I could definitely notice (if anything)?
#15
The biggest track problems for novices is having tires and brakes not up to the challenge of their first track day. No all season radials or Pep Boy pads. You don't need R compound tires or full race pads, but you need something that will hold up throughout the day. I've see more than my share of guys going home after one session because the brakes faded or the tire side walls were so rolled they started to chunk. Most up and coming track guys focus on those two things (tires and pads). Seat time makes you fast. Get as much time with as many instructors as you can. I recommend a CG lock http://www.amazon.com/CG-Lock-LBCP-C.../dp/B0010E5W2Q You and your car might not be ready for a roll cage and a 4 point harness just yet.
#16
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The biggest track problems for novices is having tires and brakes not up to the challenge of their first track day. No all season radials or Pep Boy pads. You don't need R compound tires or full race pads, but you need something that will hold up throughout the day. I've see more than my share of guys going home after one session because the brakes faded or the tire side walls were so rolled they started to chunk. Most up and coming track guys focus on those two things (tires and pads). Seat time makes you fast. Get as much time with as many instructors as you can. I recommend a CG lock http://www.amazon.com/CG-Lock-LBCP-C.../dp/B0010E5W2Q You and your car might not be ready for a roll cage and a 4 point harness just yet.
However, a competent series with competent instructors will teach a novice, not only the track and the line, but the car.
You have to listen and feel your car. 99% of participants can be fast for a lap or two. A driver can be fast the whole session.
While the driver is in control of the car, the instructor is in charge of the driver.
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The biggest track problems for novices is having tires and brakes not up to the challenge of their first track day. No all season radials or Pep Boy pads. You don't need R compound tires or full race pads, but you need something that will hold up throughout the day. I've see more than my share of guys going home after one session because the brakes faded or the tire side walls were so rolled they started to chunk. Most up and coming track guys focus on those two things (tires and pads). Seat time makes you fast. Get as much time with as many instructors as you can. I recommend a CG lock http://www.amazon.com/CG-Lock-LBCP-C.../dp/B0010E5W2Q You and your car might not be ready for a roll cage and a 4 point harness just yet.
#18
Big Bu Bu- and all - I sincerely appreciate the feedback- one topic mentioned several times "seat time" one of which times was mentioned in the context of "with an instructor" - are you suggesting paid professional instruction? i.e a Skip Barber type of program? Last I checked that was priced for the rich and famous of which I am neither.
#20
Won't disagree.
However, a competent series with competent instructors will teach a novice, not only the track and the line, but the car.
You have to listen and feel your car. 99% of participants can be fast for a lap or two. A driver can be fast the whole session.
While the driver is in control of the car, the instructor is in charge of the driver.
However, a competent series with competent instructors will teach a novice, not only the track and the line, but the car.
You have to listen and feel your car. 99% of participants can be fast for a lap or two. A driver can be fast the whole session.
While the driver is in control of the car, the instructor is in charge of the driver.