Glenn98ZM6

An eye opening moment for me was way back in 2001-2002 time frame. I had an instructor riding w/ me (upon my request). My car was 450rwhp/420rwtq, brembo brakes, 315 V700's on all four corners, full LGM suspension front to rear. My instructor kept telling me things to fix or do w/ my driving. I had alot of car underme, but wasn't using it to anywhere mear its full potential. We pulledin and he took me out in his 100% V6 Mustang. I was shocked at what a good driver could do w/ crap tires, crap brakes, crap suspension, and crap power. I thought I needed all those parts to go faster. Don't get me wrong, those part will make the car faster, but only if the driver is capable of it.

The message here - keep things simple for your first few events. Get a good feel for the car and what it is doing that is holding you back. Talk w/ other drivers at the track and see if problems your having are the car, or you.

Get some pads, get some good fluid, instal a cooler on the return of your P/S line (cheap and easy to do). Take care of your brakes and ease into all this. You don't need to be trying to set fast time of the day at any point during your first 5-6 events.
I ran for 5 years w/ the above mentioned car. I finally built a CMC car back in 2004 and started racing in 2005. My first event, I was 5+ seconds off pace. I was severly humbled. It took me the whole season before I was able to run top times. After 5 years of HPDE in alot of car, I figured I was gonna kick *** and take names my first weekend. Didn't happen. For a while I accused everyone of cheating. I couldn't understand how I was getting my *** kicked so bad - hell I knew (or thought I did) everything I needed to know about driving after 5 years in HPDE. I was wrong.

Get out and drive. Listen to folks who have traveled down this path. They ahave made these mistakes before. The path they tell you to take is to help guide you down the path you need to take, and not to let you take the one you want to take.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

telling someone tire pressures like that can be deceiving and is wrong. everyone will run a different pressure as everyone drives differently, every track does different things to tires and pressures, everyones alignment and setup will vary causing tires to build more or less heat and wear differently, and every tire has a different sweet spot for pressures, some low others high. And beyond a factory SS/WS6 PS cooler, you really don't need an aftermarket cooler if you run proper fluid levels and a good synthetic fluid. You also don't need brake ducts, just pads that will work at the given temperatures. In race situations I would highly recommend ducts, for HPDE, it is unnecessary. And yes, I've tracked my SS a couple times

I concur with this. everything else is just a favorable upgrade for future...what if the person doesn't like the experience? they then wasted a lot of $ on ducts a PS cooler, pads that are loud/annoying on the street, etc..

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

and Mitch, it still amazes me that you guys can run C5/C6 calipers for multiple seasons and I will spread them in 2 weekends on the Corvette

Glenn98ZM6

I ran 98-02 F-body calipers that I paid $50 for the pair used. They had never been rebuilt since I owned them (and when I got them they looked like they needed it) and I ran them for 6 years w/ one of the fastest and most successful 4th gens in all of CMC. I never ran ducts of any sort (did for one session and they got ripped off). I've always ran XP10/XP8 combo. I've always used $60 each rotors from the local parts store (Wagners?).
I'm sure alot of it is the weight of the car and the max speed attained. Our fastest speeds (for a CMC2 car) are under the 130 mark. Car is always around the 3250lb mark post race w/ driver.

I just upgraded to the C6 caliper on the new CMC2 car I have now. Still on 12" rotors.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Chris, the problem is YOU ... not the hardware.



I was equally amazed that you were spreading them.

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

I think a good part of the back and forth in this thread is the result of the misunderstanding of adding mods for the purpose of safety/durability, and speed. I understand that much of my woes with my car are the result of my experience level. I concede that. But in the process of getting better, I'd like to know what it is I should do to ensure I have a car to drive home in that is less likely to fail on the track.

Anyways, I learned alot from this thread, but I really think I need to have an instructor in my car my next time out. Heel-toeing and braking early I'll learn, but I'm sure there is more to it than that. Or perhaps I'm just a natural.

WS6sleeper

iTrader: (1)

This video had me hooked to RR and helped me make it through the long winter here in MI without my TA LOL I have it saved on youtube and I was just showing a friend last night how fbodys can handle too! But seriously this vid gave me a lot of inspiration and motivation to get on a road course. Nice to know who was the driver now, thanks!

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

Ahh, I was thinking you guys were faster. I'm touching 160 on a few tracks here in CA with a min weight of 3280

No sir, but I do wish that. All T1 Corvette C5/C6 drivers suffered this with varying results, from spreading after 1 race to 1 weekend, to a couple weekends, and I've heard of a few people going almost half a season. This is both a and a :banghead: some guys were going through a brand new set of pads after 1 race too. now that's crazy..

thank god they finally allowed us to run BBKs

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

SVThuh

iTrader: (2)

Get a good set of pads.. If you now know this is something you want to do and will do more frequently, it may be worth it. Race pads are recommended, but not necessary.

Put good brake fluid in your car. Something along the lines of Motul RBF600 or similar. Good fluid will make a big difference when the brakes get HOT.

Run good oil, make sure your car doesn't overheat and if you feel like your pushing too hard, its OK to back off a bit and work your way back up.. 99% of the reason why people go off and bend their car up is because they are driving over their limit. Its OK to go slower and learn the lines and then build up your speed... Its called a learning CURVE for a reason.

Here are a couple of charts you can use to help you figure out what pads and fluid you might want to get. Remember, 'bigger' is not always better.. getting something in the range that you will be driving in will be better than getting the best more often than not.

Brake pads:
http://www.zenithmotorsports.com/doc..._reference.pdf

Brake Fluid:
http://www.zenithmotorsports.com/doc...rake_fluid.pdf

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

That brake fluid chart is the reason why I use and encourage the use of Castrol SRF.

The wet BP is higher than many of the dry BPs of the competitors. SRF just doesn't absorb water. Install it and forget about it.

SVThuh

iTrader: (2)

Yeah.. SRF is the best on the market.. Period.

The only issue is the price.. Its kinda hard to swallow that much money on brake fluid unless your seriously serious about tracking your car.

I myself run the Motul RBF600.. I will likely eventually step up to SRF, but it wont be until I am dedicated to tracking the car a minimum of 8-10 times a year.

Glenn98ZM6

We are only making 230-260 rwhp.

SVThuh

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, and you guys still turn impressive times even on the bigger power tracks too!

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I ran Motul 5.1 for several years. Very good fluid. Never had a fluid related issue. But it would bleed out out a murky, green goo after a track weekend.

But keep track of how much $$ you spend on fluid because you have to bleed the brakes. You can factor in the time and mess it creates if you like.

If you track your car 3 or 4 time a year, moving to SRF will pay for itself in a year or maybe a little more.

I'm not exagerating when I say I install it and never bleed the system. I crack the bleeder when I'm compressing pistons for a pad change which is maybe twice a season, but that is it.

Bleeding brakes is one less thing to prep for the car prior to a weekend.

The price is staggering ... agree on that. And we joke about it all the time. But we still use it.

It's in my CTS-V and my F250 PSD.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I got those tire recommendations from FRAXX, they worked PERFECT for my car on 275/40's on all 4 corners. 38 in front 35 in rear was great!

I agree I have alot to learn, my point is this.

Most guys that START HPDE deals are GREEN, they are gonna overtax parts. THIS is the reason I stated those things. The OP has the same issues I had, so why do you seasoned guys keep harping that newbs dont need this or that?

Until we do learn we do need a PS cooler, PS pump, and AT LEAST brake ducts.

BTW, I am not as "green" as you guys think, I handle speed pretty well. I had fast bikes, drug the pegs and bodywork on my Busa at Deals Gap, rode it to a GPS verified 186 MPH, my 94 Z28 ran 125 mph 1/4 miles, the Busa ran the 1/4 at 138 MPH.

So I'm not SO green, My biggest hurdle as is with most new guys, as it was on the Busa is dealing with turn in speed and KNOWING what the is ahead and what the car is going to do. At Barber turn one is BLIND as is between 12-13 up hill is blind.

Turns 1 and 5 are the biggest brake killers at Barber, I was being taught NO BRAKES from turns 11-14a, brake for 11 and thats it.

Brake zones per my instructor at Barber were:

1,2(tap),5,7,11,14a(tap)

I dont understand why you experienced guys dont send the newbs to the track OVER prepared. IMO, better to have it and not need it rather than need it and not have it.

EDIT, Echo, this is my second HPDE, the first was in a rental Cobalt(a forkin BLAST) I have ridden MANY times in the right seat in buddies(3) BMW race cars. Amazing what you can learn from riding and paying attention.

Thanks for all the input guys, trying to get the car ready for the next one.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

Is the OP on the same tires as you? I run my Corvette on Hoosiers at 28 hot where as one of my competitors wants the tires at about 35 hot. On R888's I wanted 32 hot. The NT01s on my Camaro I ran 35 hot front 33 rear. See what I'm getting at?

best flat washer anyone?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I should have stated I am on cheapo MAXXIS 275/40's They do pretty good for $100 a pop, treadwear is 300.

Seeing as us newbs are green I assumed we would all be on street tires.

I have been told MANY times by my buddies with the BMW M3 racecars to stay on street tires for a long while as they will give you warning if you are over driving them.

The edge of my tires didnt touch the little arrow on the corner of the tread.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

i agree with your friend on staying with street tires, but again, there are a lot of variations of street tires people drive on and variables between cars and drivers. There is no "perfect" tire pressure contrary to what some people tell you (including the tire manufacturers themselves ). Thus, tire pressure blanket statements should be used as a reference point, not as bible..

qwikz28

iTrader: (12)

So its not based on vehicle weight? What other factors are there to consider?