4th Gen drift build
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
i have also others questions :
1) have you done a completely separate system (with separated brake discs) for your hydraulic e-brake ? Don't you beleive the e-brake can be simply connected to the rear existing calipers ?
2) how do you deal with caster and camber on the car ? keep them stock or is there a need of having upper adjustable A-arms
3) i have adjustable torque arm and relocation brackets on rear end (there were set for drag racing) : should i change the adjustment of the TA ? any suggestion for angle ? The relocation brackets are not any kind of difficulties because my car understeer a lot and it is tricky to make it slide
1) have you done a completely separate system (with separated brake discs) for your hydraulic e-brake ? Don't you beleive the e-brake can be simply connected to the rear existing calipers ?
2) how do you deal with caster and camber on the car ? keep them stock or is there a need of having upper adjustable A-arms
3) i have adjustable torque arm and relocation brackets on rear end (there were set for drag racing) : should i change the adjustment of the TA ? any suggestion for angle ? The relocation brackets are not any kind of difficulties because my car understeer a lot and it is tricky to make it slide
Sporty, you can drive on them daily. It takes some getting used to as the turn in is magnified a lot. Of course with your front end setup properly for drifting, you'll eat through some front tires really fast. I can make the brackets with less angle than the set pictured. The two piece version can be made with 66* of angle or 45*. 45* is what I had with the cut uprights. Works good and doesnt require super crazy offset wheels. I also daily drove on that setup for a year+
Yes, I have a hydro e brake system minus the calipers and lines. Making a custom handle for a guy now. It's a separate system from your brakes, much more reliable and more safe to run you E brake like this. It's actually required to run like that per FD rules now.
I have adjustable upper and lower front A arms for camber/caster/toe. Once I get everything setup and running I'll start messing around with the rear end to add a little more camber too.
I'd start with 0 on the pinion angle. The relo brackets should help traction, these would be needed once your car is dialed in and not making rear bite. As in you add throttle and the car wants to continue rotating and not go forward. If you have -2, plus the relo brackets, a soft front setup, and soft rear tires you will induce some under steer.
What shocks are you running? Spring rates? Sway bars?
Yes, I have a hydro e brake system minus the calipers and lines. Making a custom handle for a guy now. It's a separate system from your brakes, much more reliable and more safe to run you E brake like this. It's actually required to run like that per FD rules now.
I have adjustable upper and lower front A arms for camber/caster/toe. Once I get everything setup and running I'll start messing around with the rear end to add a little more camber too.
I'd start with 0 on the pinion angle. The relo brackets should help traction, these would be needed once your car is dialed in and not making rear bite. As in you add throttle and the car wants to continue rotating and not go forward. If you have -2, plus the relo brackets, a soft front setup, and soft rear tires you will induce some under steer.
What shocks are you running? Spring rates? Sway bars?
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
about the steering bracket : the 45 is probably the best choice for a car also use as a daily driver. What is the stock steering angle ?
i will probably do some brackets to use some C5 rear calipers i already have with a hydrau e-brake i already have too. I just wondered if it was necessary to make a separated system as many people here just connect their e-brake to the existing rear calipers
what is the model of A-arms are you using ? any suggestion ?
I use Bilstein HD shocks, stock springs, and Hochkiss sway bar (Front 1 7/16 in./Rear 1 in)
Any suggestion of modification is welcome (springs ?). Is there a need of lowering the car ? I don't want to compromise too much using it as a DD too.
i will probably do some brackets to use some C5 rear calipers i already have with a hydrau e-brake i already have too. I just wondered if it was necessary to make a separated system as many people here just connect their e-brake to the existing rear calipers
what is the model of A-arms are you using ? any suggestion ?
I use Bilstein HD shocks, stock springs, and Hochkiss sway bar (Front 1 7/16 in./Rear 1 in)
Any suggestion of modification is welcome (springs ?). Is there a need of lowering the car ? I don't want to compromise too much using it as a DD too.
Stock is steering angle 30* total
When you connect it to the existing system, it can cause issues if you try to use both at the same time. IE: about to crash in to someone, pull the handbrake mash the foot brake and the fluid isnt there. If you do do it that way get a manual prop valve to give the system a chance. You'll also need to delete the ABS module.
I'm using all Spohn front A arms, they have the most clearance and best joint design imo.
Ditch the stock springs and get a set of strano's or eibach pro line. They are both very similar in rates, the pro line would be a little more street friendly. Definitely lower it, will help a ton. These things are like 4x4's on the soft factory springs. Heck, I have the set of springs from my car now that I think about it...somewhere.
When you connect it to the existing system, it can cause issues if you try to use both at the same time. IE: about to crash in to someone, pull the handbrake mash the foot brake and the fluid isnt there. If you do do it that way get a manual prop valve to give the system a chance. You'll also need to delete the ABS module.
I'm using all Spohn front A arms, they have the most clearance and best joint design imo.
Ditch the stock springs and get a set of strano's or eibach pro line. They are both very similar in rates, the pro line would be a little more street friendly. Definitely lower it, will help a ton. These things are like 4x4's on the soft factory springs. Heck, I have the set of springs from my car now that I think about it...somewhere.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
From: Bridgewater, Ma
Are you going to heat up your rearend and cool it rapidly on the top or are you going to cut the rearend tubes partially and re-weld them? I hear the rearend can handle about -.5 camber before you start munching bearing seals.
Sporty, you definitely need to lower that 4X4!!!
Next week, I'm finishing up the custom ebrake setup, and hopefully the mold for the carbon dash. This week is replacing the engine in a 2500HD, but I get to keep the LQ4...for what reason idk.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
Any help in choosing springs rate for front and rear and let me know how much to lower the car ?
Also are the BMR adjustable arms better than the UMI ?
Another question : which types are you using?
Also are the BMR adjustable arms better than the UMI ?
Another question : which types are you using?
Cant go wrong with the Strano's
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=115&ModelID=8
IIRC the pro kit is also 550 front but 175 rear.
You want a full length TA, either of those is fine.
I went with the Global West trac link since it tucks up more and sort of de-couples. Well, I will this season at least, only thing I havent purchased yet.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=115&ModelID=8
IIRC the pro kit is also 550 front but 175 rear.
You want a full length TA, either of those is fine.
I went with the Global West trac link since it tucks up more and sort of de-couples. Well, I will this season at least, only thing I havent purchased yet.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
From: Bridgewater, Ma
Wow...thats it? I have a buddy who regularly does it to mustang 8.8's, so we were going to sort of rig up his jig for the 10 bolt. Im pretty sure he said he was adding 1.5* though, and a touch of toe in.
Sporty, you definitely need to lower that 4X4!!!
Next week, I'm finishing up the custom ebrake setup, and hopefully the mold for the carbon dash. This week is replacing the engine in a 2500HD, but I get to keep the LQ4...for what reason idk.
Sporty, you definitely need to lower that 4X4!!!
Next week, I'm finishing up the custom ebrake setup, and hopefully the mold for the carbon dash. This week is replacing the engine in a 2500HD, but I get to keep the LQ4...for what reason idk.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: New Caledonia
Cant go wrong with the Strano's
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=115&ModelID=8
IIRC the pro kit is also 550 front but 175 rear. .
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=115&ModelID=8
IIRC the pro kit is also 550 front but 175 rear. .
Also : what wheels and tyres are you using ?
Oh A arms, Spohn all the way. Best design, cheapest, and the most clearance.
On the welded 45* setup I was running some xxr's that were 17X9 +20mm offset with a 5/16" spacer. With a 255/45 clearance at full lock was 1" to the stock lower A arm. Then tons of 17X9.5's out back for 275-295's
These are my new front wheels for the 66* setup. Cheap wheels are good cuz your going to ruin them anyway and you'll never really go much faster than 80-90mph, if that.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JD-Wheels-17x8-BOSS-338-Black-5x4-75-2-4-517-bs-3382-8834-GM-Chevy-Rims-PAIR-/230817831572?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item35bdd09a94&vxp=mtr
Did you email him just to see if he would ship there? We may have to do a separate shipment for the springs if he doesnt answer you. Maybe try WS6 store and the pro kit or bmr springs.