4th gen f body performance alignment specs
#1
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I have searched and have not really seen any alignment specifications that people are using for autox/road race setups for 4th gen f bodies. I use hunter engineering software. The purpose for the car is autocross/road racing. I have strano springs, 295/40/17 and 315/35/17 kumho v710s, and rear lca relocation brackets.
I dont have the sheet on me but the specs were around
LF and RF Camber: -2.5 degrees
Toe was slightly out
Caster: 4.5 degress
Mods this winter are front adj boxed lcas, road race k member, kyb adj shocks and struts, hollow sway bars, strut tower brace, on car adj panhard bar, on car adj rear lcas, subframe connectors, adj torque arm, bolt in 6 point roll bar.
Any road race/autocrossers out there care to share some specs or have any suggestions? What about rear specs? Non adj besides thrust angle?
I dont have the sheet on me but the specs were around
LF and RF Camber: -2.5 degrees
Toe was slightly out
Caster: 4.5 degress
Mods this winter are front adj boxed lcas, road race k member, kyb adj shocks and struts, hollow sway bars, strut tower brace, on car adj panhard bar, on car adj rear lcas, subframe connectors, adj torque arm, bolt in 6 point roll bar.
Any road race/autocrossers out there care to share some specs or have any suggestions? What about rear specs? Non adj besides thrust angle?
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Yeah it gets driven on nice days in the summer but the only concern is for benefits on the track/autocross.
Does anyone have good hard data on how much camber is too much?
Whos upgraded their rear brakes on their f body? Im not too concerned and didnt think there would be much benefit but I am contemplating. Ill be going with the ctsv/brembo 4 piston calipers for the front. Any suggestions to tweak this setup are welcome but am mostly concerned of what peoples alignment specs are for strictly autocross/track cars with no concern for how it rides on the street.
Does anyone have good hard data on how much camber is too much?
Whos upgraded their rear brakes on their f body? Im not too concerned and didnt think there would be much benefit but I am contemplating. Ill be going with the ctsv/brembo 4 piston calipers for the front. Any suggestions to tweak this setup are welcome but am mostly concerned of what peoples alignment specs are for strictly autocross/track cars with no concern for how it rides on the street.
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So im waiting for my account to be validated. Until then, have any else to contribute? Whats your setup?
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I didnt know you had to join the forum to see everything, because if youre not a member there is no suspension section listed. Someone that just looks at the site doesnt know you have to join to see everything.
So im waiting for my account to be validated. Until then, have any else to contribute? Whats your setup?
So im waiting for my account to be validated. Until then, have any else to contribute? Whats your setup?
-1.2 ish on camber, zero toe ish, caster unknown......caster is unknown prolly around 4.
I have been told the max neg camber on these cars is about 1.4 ish without different upper control arms and or slotted lowers.
Keep in mind there is a point of diminishing returns on negative camber...grip vs braking.
On the street past about -1.5 camber you could see inner tire wear if you dont drive the car hard on the street.
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I run -2.5 on both sides, I have a stock Kmember, stock a arms and the uppers have Strano offset bushings in them to give me that extra -1deg. I'm lowered as well. I have inner tire wear on the street but I'm running a square setup so I can rotate tires. I'm also running 0 toe. Caster is unknown. The car is a little darty on the street when I'm on uneven pavement, that could be a bumpsteer issue caused by lowering it. On the track, it's on rails and I've seen very little braking issues except for "Ice Mode" ABS problems on the Auto X circuit.
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No they havent. And its an 98-02 k member needed for the ls swap forgot to mention. We were surprised to see that much because my brother could only get that much after slotting his (he has an 02 z). If i already have that much camber i guess the only benefit of adding boxed lower control arms would be the adjustability, strength, and -3lbs. Im not sure if that justifies the $400 price tag, unless someone knows of a benefit that i dont.
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Race Tires
Kuhmo V710 315/35/17 on all 4 corners or Hooiser A6 315/35/17
Street/Rain/Daily Tires
Kuhmo SPT 285/40/17
Alignment
Specs
-2.3 Camber
1/16 Toe out
5.5 Caster
#20
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i run the SA Koni 4/4s...its a good shock setup.
I run -1.9 (Driver) and -2.1 (Passenger) camber...and so far tires are wearing evenly.
i set my toe to zero and caster is around 5.5
too much toe out will eat the inside edge of your tires in VERY short order...
I run -1.9 (Driver) and -2.1 (Passenger) camber...and so far tires are wearing evenly.
i set my toe to zero and caster is around 5.5
too much toe out will eat the inside edge of your tires in VERY short order...