bowser17

I saw a previous post in here about breaks... I ran x-drilled rotors with hawk hps. Had no problem until the fluid boiled, then MAJOR problems. The way I see it, you can't have too much breaking power, so the question is, will a kit like a Wilwood SL6 be beneficial? Increased rotor size is a definate. What is the stock rotor size anyways? Should be more piston area...

Right now, I am trying to decide between Wilwood SL6 and SS Brake Corp. SS makes 2 kits, a fixed and a floating. I think the woods are fixed. all use a 13" rotor, i think they can take a 14" as well. one of the SS break kits uses corvette C5 rotors and pads, the other SS kit uses 94' Mitsu 3000 GT sized pads. THe wilwoods area approx. the same size as those. (noticably smaller than the stock camaro or C5 pads) So, Im not too sure what to do other than the fact that Wilwood has been around the block, the SS brakes i haven't heard much on (good or bad).

Lastly, after reading about caliper pins siezing up, im thinking fixed is the way to go?

Sorry for the long rambling post. Any feedback would be appreciated.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

So you are having problems with a different type of rotors huh? Hmm I autocross and I have the same problems with soft brakes. I have stock rotors and PBR metal master pads. I switched to ATE blue racing brake fluid. That helped me go a half of a season before my brakes began to go soft on me. Even with the better brake fluid, you will still boil, but not as often. LS1 brakes just need to be bled and flushed a lot.

TTSSZ

iTrader: (8)

The way I see it floating calipers are used when you have the pistons pushing from only one side, so when they push in from one side the force is equalized for both pads. Fixed are used when you have say a 4 piston caliper w/ 2 pistons on each side, they push equally from both sides.
I have run both, the stock are 2 piston floating, as are the regular baer brakes I have on my 71. I got a set of baer/alcon fixed 4 piston calipers and you can feel the diff. right away. Also there is much better pedal feel in the brakes.
With the caliper upgrade I also went with 13.5" (12" is stock) 2 piece rotors and new hawk pads. My braking distance has to be 1/3 of stock.
I pull about 1.10g's on my e-tech now stopping. I wish I could get that in acceleration.
I'll get back to you on the brake fluid, Im running wilwood fluid right know but have not track tested it yet.

bowser17

Hey, I have the Wilwood fluid in there now, but I am wondering if the shop that bled my system screwed up because I get alot of pedal vibration... I suppose that could also be from rotor imperfections / pads sticking in the clips... Another thing I read was that fixed are less forgiving on warped rotors, but I guess I dont care about that, as I replace them if they warp.

Lastly, someone mentioned to consider the type of events you may do in the future, where i think alot of SCCA events dont allow mods to the stock breaks.

As for now, I am going to replace the pads again, and install some SS break lines. In the future, I think I will end up going with the Wilwood SL6 kit...

Which Baer system do you have right now? Is that 13.5" rotor matched to that caliper? I thnk I have read that some of those systems will take a 13" or 14"

TTSSZ

iTrader: (8)

I think Its the pro + system. I double check and post after work.
The caliper can be used for both; the bracket is different for each rotor size.
The 13.5's fit w/ the stock 17" rims, the 14's need 18" rims I think. My stock rotors were sht. they would vibrate like you couldn’t believe. Thats the rotors.

I heard that the rotors don’t warp; they get small cracks that build up the brake material and feel warped. The best thing you can do for the least money is get new rotors, brembo's are very good, and hawk pads. The stock calipers arnt that bad.

racecar

Are you road racing or AutoX. What kind of car, how much does it weigh?? For road racing, brake fade is a fact of life. When you run 25 minutes pressing the brakes hard at every corner, you are lucky to finish without some pedal fade. If you are not cooking them, you are not using them hard enough. You can spend mega dollars to upgrade to bigger brakes, they will only stop as fast as the tires can grip, but bigger brakes will handle the heat better. Carbotech or PF pads are a must, and bleed several bottles of high temp fluid thru the system before a track day. Take a bottle of fluid to the track, if you have fade, bleed em after they cool off.

Derek 357i

iTrader: (1)

I have a friend who sells used Cup parts. I just saw a set of the craziest calipers I have ever seen. They are Alcon 4 pistons (Titanium pistons), carbon fiber ducts on the calipers themselves that actually blow air through the bridges and the pistons. The bodies of the calipers are all billet aluminum and weigh next to nothing. They sell a lot of stuff on ebay, so one might be able to get a good deal on them. Not to scare anyone off, but they retail new for $6000 each. I thought he said they were already listed, but I can't find the listing.

We were trying to figure out who could use that much caliper. Answer, people road racing 3800# cars.

Derek 357i

iTrader: (1)

Here is the link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALCON...spagenameZWDVW