68 rs/ss protouring, road race set up
#1
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I am starting to restore/set up my 68...i want to set it up for big willow, nice canyon drives....any suggestions. As of right now, it is stock...and rough. Going to put a ls1 with a magnacharger...thinking of swaping a late model vette for the drivetrain and brakes........can someone who has or has set one up help.....
thanks,
dustin
thanks,
dustin
#5
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Nice pinstriping. Looks alot like mine when I first got it. Id recommend media blasting the WHOLE thing, and going from there. Mine was a california car, not a spot of rust anywhere, until I media blasted it and found a single 6" line of pinholes under the back window. California car its whole life, no other corrosion, but there it was. Nice project, post progress pics. Here's mine when i got it...
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a334/master__olly/Justgotit2.jpg)
and now..
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a334/master__olly/grille004.jpg)
good luck!
olly
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a334/master__olly/Justgotit2.jpg)
and now..
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a334/master__olly/grille004.jpg)
good luck!
olly
#6
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oh, the rust is there, but i am planning on replacing: feneders, doors, quarters....etc. I have since sanded down the roof, the rear window had the rust you are tlaking about, i used the Rustmore product i saw in the magazines.....but...when i pull the engine and tranny out, i may have the blasting done, however/question...if i remove the body panels, then why should i have it blasted?
#7
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I would get the entire thing soda/media blasted and go from there.....well worth the money, you may find that the parts you want to dump can be used.
67, where in so cal are you located? I would love to check out your car.
67, where in so cal are you located? I would love to check out your car.
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#9
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Originally Posted by s4dustin
oh, the rust is there, but i am planning on replacing: feneders, doors, quarters....etc. I have since sanded down the roof, the rear window had the rust you are tlaking about, i used the Rustmore product i saw in the magazines.....but...when i pull the engine and tranny out, i may have the blasting done, however/question...if i remove the body panels, then why should i have it blasted?
I oughta censor the piece of crap pulling it, but it's sold now, so I dont feel quite so bad.. Here's what it looked like on the way to bodyshop..
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a334/master__olly/car001.jpg)
olly
Last edited by 67RSCamaroVette; 02-23-2006 at 11:10 PM.
#11
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Yeah, a Magnacharged LS6/2 '68 would be mean as hell. Any ideas on what color it's gonna be?
I advise blasting so you can see everything. No unexpected surprises hiding in the bodywork when you get it painted and have them rear their ugly heads, its easy, just have it blasted, shoot on some self etching primer, and do your bodywork. MUCH MUCH easier to replace panels, too, when you can see exactly where the rust holes are, seams, no sealer in the way, welding is clean. Just do it, try not to touch it once it's blasted (hand-oil will make bare metal rust, my car had rust-handprints all over it until i hit it with scotch-brite.) make your repairs, then self-etch or epoxy. Good thing about blasting with baking soda, it wont harm plastic or trim if you do it right. It's also water-soluble, so you just hose it away. Just makes glass, shiny, too.
lookin forward to you guys comin up in a week or so to see mine.
olly
I advise blasting so you can see everything. No unexpected surprises hiding in the bodywork when you get it painted and have them rear their ugly heads, its easy, just have it blasted, shoot on some self etching primer, and do your bodywork. MUCH MUCH easier to replace panels, too, when you can see exactly where the rust holes are, seams, no sealer in the way, welding is clean. Just do it, try not to touch it once it's blasted (hand-oil will make bare metal rust, my car had rust-handprints all over it until i hit it with scotch-brite.) make your repairs, then self-etch or epoxy. Good thing about blasting with baking soda, it wont harm plastic or trim if you do it right. It's also water-soluble, so you just hose it away. Just makes glass, shiny, too.
lookin forward to you guys comin up in a week or so to see mine.
olly
#12
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I've seen a few article where they install the Vette parts to make pro-touring 1st gens. As I recall they fit without a ton of mods & give you the handling & braking you are after. Seems like it was the mid/late 90s Vette parts.....don't quote me tho.
As for other things to do, get the biggest inner cooler you can fit on the car. Sustained speed tends to heat soak big hunks of aluminum (aka Magnacharger). And if you swap rear ends, do NOT use an aluminum pinion support! A friend of mine did that on his 9" & the pinion seal popped out at a buck 50 during an open road race. Could have been VERY bad. And coil-overs all around not only give you the handling you want, but you can adjust the ride height for the big fatties you will probably throw under it.
Good luck & keep us posted on your progress.
As for other things to do, get the biggest inner cooler you can fit on the car. Sustained speed tends to heat soak big hunks of aluminum (aka Magnacharger). And if you swap rear ends, do NOT use an aluminum pinion support! A friend of mine did that on his 9" & the pinion seal popped out at a buck 50 during an open road race. Could have been VERY bad. And coil-overs all around not only give you the handling you want, but you can adjust the ride height for the big fatties you will probably throw under it.
Good luck & keep us posted on your progress.
#13
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I will be coming out with blownchevy.....thanks for having us.....will do the soda blast....there is no interior, front or rear window...i was doing the 80 grit thing...lot of work...but it did work....however, i willl be replacing: fenders, doors, quarters...so what is there to blast? The engine compartment needs it.....
I run a coffeeshop where a ton of exotics, canyon cars...come in...i would love to be on a drive or at the track in a primered black '68...and fly by.....
I run a coffeeshop where a ton of exotics, canyon cars...come in...i would love to be on a drive or at the track in a primered black '68...and fly by.....
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#14
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Originally Posted by BlownChevy
I would get the entire thing soda/media blasted and go from there.....well worth the money, you may find that the parts you want to dump can be used.
67, where in so cal are you located? I would love to check out your car.
67, where in so cal are you located? I would love to check out your car.
parts are kind of rough....and some have already been cut and rewelded...flapjack
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I had all my camaros alkali/soda dipped to raw metal and started from scatch. The canyon carver will be some serious ching. I would install a small block with about 500 hp LS7 motor or a Merlin 454 aluminum small block; to dust the exotics off a little bit in the straightaways.
#16
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If you can put C4 front and rear suspension that would be way the go. Skip the Magnacharger and put into suspension/brakes if that would prevent you from doing it.
My neighbor's dad had a '68 396SS Camaro when I was in 5th grade (about 20 years ago) and it was pretty sweet. First car I ever saw do a brakestand... and then lay strips down all the way up the street! It blew my mind...
My neighbor's dad had a '68 396SS Camaro when I was in 5th grade (about 20 years ago) and it was pretty sweet. First car I ever saw do a brakestand... and then lay strips down all the way up the street! It blew my mind...
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#18
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brakes going on my '67... Scored all 4 corners for $200, LS1 rear, LS1 front (same as C5) Rear LS1 bolt right up, front just need a bracket and a little mill work. Pro-touring.com is a HUGE help to learn how to make it go, stop, and turn great. dusty, you gotta come down one of these weekends if your'e not busy..
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a334/master__olly/brakesnstuff003.jpg)
![](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a334/master__olly/brakesnstuff010.jpg)
olly
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olly