Camber, Caster, toe.
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Camber, Caster, toe.
ok well here i am 1 week away from my first road race. 1.6 mile with 9 turns. have a good engine and make good power. 366 on mustang Dyno. with A4. i got new G2 springs and brake upgrade for Vette with Hawk HS pads. So what should i set my camber at?? caster and toe. thanks
Damian
Damian
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Well.....
I daily drive my car and do 4 or more track days per year.
I initially set my camber at 1.5 deg. negative and added about 1/2 degree to the factory caster setting. Toe was left at factory spec. This was great at the track, but chewed up the inside of the tires on the street.
I've settled in to the following, for my daily driver / track day car:
1/2 degree negative camber and the caster and toe as above. If you find the car wanders a bit or is a bit darty in the front , add just a bit of toe-in. This set-up will not ruin your street tires, but will eat the outer shoulders of your tires at the track .... a bit. And, of course, gives up some front cornering traction due to the lower camber setting.
Oh ... and.....
I started out with an automatic as well. I would STRONGLY advise that you put a good cooler on it and install a shift kit and program the PCM to delete the torque management and increase the shift pressures. This will help the trans to live, but if you get good and start going real fast ..... you'll end up just breaking something internal anyway. Mine died at 40,000 miles and maybe 6 to 8 track days...... with street tires.
I daily drive my car and do 4 or more track days per year.
I initially set my camber at 1.5 deg. negative and added about 1/2 degree to the factory caster setting. Toe was left at factory spec. This was great at the track, but chewed up the inside of the tires on the street.
I've settled in to the following, for my daily driver / track day car:
1/2 degree negative camber and the caster and toe as above. If you find the car wanders a bit or is a bit darty in the front , add just a bit of toe-in. This set-up will not ruin your street tires, but will eat the outer shoulders of your tires at the track .... a bit. And, of course, gives up some front cornering traction due to the lower camber setting.
Oh ... and.....
I started out with an automatic as well. I would STRONGLY advise that you put a good cooler on it and install a shift kit and program the PCM to delete the torque management and increase the shift pressures. This will help the trans to live, but if you get good and start going real fast ..... you'll end up just breaking something internal anyway. Mine died at 40,000 miles and maybe 6 to 8 track days...... with street tires.
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I have mine set at as much negative camber that I can get -0.9 with the stock springs (you should be able to get more been lowered -1 to -1.5 is a good number if you do a lot of trackdays), +4.5 caster and 0 toe.
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I attend a bout 30 track events a year . I keep the camber set at -2 and caster at +5 with either TOYO RA1 or Nitto 555RII tires. That has been the best setting for me for these tires.
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Originally Posted by roy
I attend a bout 30 track events a year . I keep the camber set at -2 and caster at +5 with either TOYO RA1 or Nitto 555RII tires. That has been the best setting for me for these tires.
y so much caster??? and anyone else going to redline time attack
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Originally Posted by A502slo
y so much caster??? and anyone else going to redline time attack
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I don't do track events, but do autocross, this is more of a comment towards tire wear.
I run -1.6 camber and have had no issue at all with bad tire wear. The car only sees about 10k/yr street miles though.
As for castor, get as much as you possibly can but equal on both sides. This increases negative camber while turining, and improves the return to center.
As for toe, a touch of toe in is good for high speed stability, a touch of toe out is good for turn in. I would spit the uprights and just leave it at 0.
I run -1.6 camber and have had no issue at all with bad tire wear. The car only sees about 10k/yr street miles though.
As for castor, get as much as you possibly can but equal on both sides. This increases negative camber while turining, and improves the return to center.
As for toe, a touch of toe in is good for high speed stability, a touch of toe out is good for turn in. I would spit the uprights and just leave it at 0.
#9
Originally Posted by A502slo
y so much caster??? and anyone else going to redline time attack
Al