TTSSZ

iTrader: (8)

Man...I wish it was my vett....thats a photo my bro sent me.

Yep wish it was mine so I could sell it and put my order in for my black zl1 572 08 SS Camaro

dailydriver

You would need every penny of that C6 Z06 sale money to afford that car and swap together! You are talking about swapping in one of those uber rare, (are there even any left??) all alloy, injected GM crate big blocks, right?? And of course, this could NEVER be street legal, ANYWHERE (let alone our inspection **** state)!!

TTSSZ

iTrader: (8)

No swap... 08 factory 08 SS.
Hay they have a 06 -07 ls7 427 vette.
(thats not the old big block, its a retro rename for a new generation)
how bout a L-88 rs. 427 convert.
a hiped out 302 z with a 10k redline.
and a redesigned zl1 572 SS
Im just helping GM think about selling new camaros.

(and why would a old zl1 never be street legal? Its just a motor like any other motor... I have a l-88 its street legal)

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

okay I see where this thread has gone, and i must say that it is now turning into street car and track combination with practically no downsides for each, which will then become highly impractical. Even if everything about the vehicles remained the same, discounting the tyres, it still won't be practical if the vehicle gets into an accident and/or breaks on the track. If that happens, forget about driving home, unless you have a dedicated mechanic who can perform a 4 hour job with 1 hour time and an absolute endless stockpile of parts no matter whether you're on the road or at the track. if you perhaps live about less than several miles away, then I guess it should be more realistic, but even then, what about driving elsewhere. Hate to submit this reminder, but even with a C5, there are really no free lunches.

Also, you not only must properly record what is happening on the track, but also the street as well. Many alignment settings and tyre pressures alone will take some time to properly adjust for the street vs. the track.

Safety is another concern as well. Depending on how the vehicle is tracked, there will be a need for the proper protective equipment, which is usually a modification of the car, not just what the driver will wear and sit in. For the street, having roll cages without proper seats can actually be more dangerous since you most likely won't wear a helmet, or wear a nomex suit, 4 or 5-point belt, HANS device, and the likewise.

It's not to say that these things are impossible, but FWIW, it's highly impractical for the majority who have the same demands as the original thread poster.

This is all stated without concerns to any type of racing sanction rules or public traffic regulations, which all should be obeyed.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

And to the guys who have introduced the very nice street cars, mitch and teutonic speedracer know quite a bit what they're talking about. If you notice, they have both mentioned in previous postings about removing the dead weight from the vehicle, which is very important for handling. You can leave all of the dead weight in your vehicle and have 500-700 rwhp vs. somewere around what they're currently allowed to compete with in their sanctions, and unless you can really invest lot's of money to keep the vehicle streetable, your vehicles will handle like absolute lead pigs. As unfortunate as this is, I speak this from experience.

several factors here that are very important for the budget racer and the exotic racer as this thread will touch on is, weight management. Not only must you attempt to remove the weight like crazy, but also aim for even/near even front and rear weight distribution.

Another thing that was introduced here was that the stock 10-bolt wouldn't be able to handle more than 300 rwhp. Not true in it's entirety. Significant factors that will really affect the reliability of the 10-bolt will be, what differential you have installed, how hard you're launching, and how sticky the tyres are. I am currently running 400 rwhp on my street car and approx. 500 on my track freak, both w/T2R's, and the track freak w/ Kumho V710's 275/40 17's. I do launch hard, and have yet to need replacement of the track car's 10-bolt. This is largely because I am not drag racing, so why am I trying to cause massive burnouts and in addition not launching at such high rpms. The cam I have in the track freak works well for a road course, not drag racing. I inspect my differential quite often on each vehicle as well. If you shall move to a 12-bolt or a 9", be aware that if you most likely add more unsprung weight to the already unsprung weight laden solid rear axle, you will pay another handling penalty as well. I once had a 12-bolt, and it really increased my lap times by several seconds, no matter what I did with spring rates and/or valvings. This too has been discussed in a recent thread.

dailydriver

Also, there are no T2Rs for 12 bolts or 9"s. This will also hurt the handling somewhat (although Bill S, I think it is, does OK with a True Trac in a 12 bolt). I believe someone makes the equivalent of a T2R for the 9s (a "Gold Trac" or ??) , but it costs a king's ransom, if you can find it at all.

dailydriver

The LSxx block cannot be stretched to 572 c.i. (I don't even think the aftermarket "Warlock" block can go that huge, but I'm not sure). Yes, they would have to develop a whole new gen block to go that big, highly doubtful.
I was just going by what is currently available in GM's parts bin, as far as the new crate ZL1 goes. Installing that engine (or any crate 572) in a new car would NEVER be street legal anywhere , and one would NOT be able to get away with it, even illegally, in our draconian state!!!

Teutonic Speedracer

iTrader: (20)

Yup. My 10-bolt holds up just fine with about 430rwhp/315 Hoosers/T2. It's got about 25k street miles and ~5k hard track miles with no failures. I change the fluid once a year with Mobil 1 and it works just fine (gonna put Redline in next change). The only thing I can see being really hard on the rear when roadracing is if you get brake hop...which I've had from time to time and it is hard....but nothing has broken yet.

Z06er

Buy a c5 Z06, extra set of rims, install safety equipment and drive it

OKcruising

I spent right at 15K on my Z06 to get it track ready. 6 piston wilwoods in front, 4 piston wilwoods in rear(A compound on front an rear), corbeau cr1's (bitch to install), 5 point belts, longtubes, no cats, straight pipes, and intake. On top of that 15K, I got 4 sets of 315's hoosiers for the front, and 345's hoosiers for the rear, talk about grip...
Lol they are troopers though, 4000 miles out of the 5500 on my Z06 have had the engine singing in the 4500+rpm range, street or track, mostly track haha.

I'm fixing to undergo another round of mods, rounding out everything sans the actual engine. Quaife is coming out with a differential for the C5's so I'm oogling the instant that comes to sell, those are some seriously killer diff's, bye bye roasted clutch plates.

General rule of thumb I've learned so far, take original cost of car, and that's the amount you'll spend in mod, if you leave nothing untouched.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

F-Bod and mods ... might as well get a C5
C5 and mods ... might as well get a GT3
GT3 and mods ... might as well get an S7

Does any one else see a pattern?

Feffman

BB:

This may sound crazy, but wait about 3-4 more months and you'll be able to pick up a Lotus Elise in the upper twenty-thousands. The 2005's are already in the lower thirty-thousands and winter is not kind to values. No big engine, but a fantastic track car and very relaible with a Lotus tweaked Toyota engine and drive train.

Mark Pfeffer
www.MVPTrackTime.com

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

Are you saying we should just get an S7 and be done with it? It would be nice!

I think a question that has not been asked is how much would you be willing to loose should you wreck? Sometime for us guys our testosterone prevent us from considering that I might not be Michael Schummacker and that there is a real posibility that I might wreck the car. After all I've seen BMW's and Porche's come home in a flat bed at regular open track days. I've had a close one my self, due to a tire rub. See here. So how much are you willing to risk loosing? I'd love to be able top say $150,000 from a Viper Competition Coupe, Noble or S7, but my wallet says no $20,000-$30,000 + a couple weeks hotel stay (after my wife kicks me out).

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

That's a valid question ... and one of the reasons I sold my street car and built a dedicated track car.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

I seriously dont know how the LS1/T56 Rx7 FD slipped through the cracks here.... talk about the perfect track car..

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Those are sweet hybrids. The problem is .. what class to run them in.

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

What about getting a super high milage 98 LS1 M6 fbody? What is your budget when all is said and done? I'd say some easy bolt ons, exaust cutout, intake, maybe a cam and you'll have the power taken care of, then of course make sure you have a good set of tires on the thing for the track, etc.