sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

I have a 99' Camaro, and am wanting to know the best way to mount air ducting to the brakes.How did you route the ductwork? Did you go from the front grille area or just use the fog lamp pockets? I been told the front grille opening would be the best because that is the area with the highest air pressure, and it's in a central location on the car for best flow, but I would like for a knowledgable individual that has performed this, to state the best way.If possible, please show some pictures.
I am wanting to use the Purosil 89 series air ducting that's good for intermittent 600+ degree heat. Also what kind of backing plates did you use, for the mount up to the calipers?

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

Here is a very sweet setup:

http://home.earthlink.net/~jonaa/Brakeducts.html

And another example:

http://para.noid.org/albums/?mode=al...p;dispsize=640

I personally used the "Steve Sampson" method before but the page that I used to reference http://www.nw-fbody.org/stevebrake.htm is no longer working. However, Steve still has a page here http://opentracking.com/steve_sampson.htm and here http://www.teamnwfbody.org/members/sampson.htm so he may have a new link somewhere.

Judd

iTrader: (1)

I did it like the second link. I used shop-vac hose and I also used a shop vac attachment for my scoops.

I know you must be thinking to yourself, "Damn, this dude is putting shop-vac **** on his car. Bet that looks good".

Well actually it looks pretty good believe it or not. The scoops were attached to the lower airdam with L brackets and rivets. The shop-vac scoop is the fat deep one, not the thin wide one. The "scoop" is about 8 inches wide and about 4 inches tall {there abouts}. The hose is 2.5 inches in dia. The rest of the install is about the same. I used flexible exhaust pipe at the spindle, clamped it with a exhaust clamp.

The whole thing cost me something like 40-50 bucks or so. Been under the car for over a year now, nearly 2 years. Holding up well. The only damage has been to the scoops and air dam {car is lowered 1.5-2 inches}. I was worried that the plastic shop-vac hose wouldn't hold up to the heat. The flexable exhaust hose is longer than the spindle ducts most folks use. This puts the plastic hose at least a foot away from the rotor. I think this is why they are holding up.

There is a benefit to the shop vac hose, it's kind stiff. It pretty much holds itself up with only a few nylon ties at the sway bar and the tie rods. I've seen and actually tried the orange high-heat hose {got enough for one side from a friend}, I didn't like it as much as the shop-vac hose. It was actually too flexable, it was too floppy. Had a harder time getting it to stay where I wanted it. I took it off and put my shop-vac hose back on.

I have not done any open track events but I have had around 20-30 AutoX runs on it {yea I know, autox doesn't get the brakes all that hot}. I also play quite a bit up in the mountains. I know that on a down hill run, the brakes would get pretty hot{real hot, brake fade hot sometimes}. I also know that no amount of "play" in the mountains is going to equal a good open track session. I just put that in there to show that the hose will at least take average or a bit above average temps and not melt.

The rotors warped on me twice before the ducting. Since the ducting, no more warped rotors in the same conditions. I am hopeing to try one open practice this year. If it holds up to that, I can quite buggin on the high heat hose.

I don't have any pics to prove it doesn't look like a horse's *** but I could get some by next weekend. As I said, it's pretty much like jhelms second link. Heck it may actually look a bit better.

Johnny Hunkins{? the guy who writes for GM HighTech} saw it at the Bristol Bash last year and complimented me. Asked where I bought the kit. Once I told him I didn't buy it as a kit, he asked where he could get the parts. I actually hated to tell him "Lowes". He couldn't get over the scoops, he thought they were actual scoops like you would buy at a racer supply house.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=343192

Toonz

iTrader: (6)

Here's what I did... it's not a Camaro, but it's an idea... I'll get more pics of the whole setup later tonight.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Specifically, the routing around the sway bar and the way you stabilized the end next to the caliper ...

steve-d

iTrader: (7)

Here's a Wilwood Tech Paper on the proper location for air duct intakes. It shows the High Pressure areas of the front of Aero designed cars. Go too far from the center of the car and you're in a low pressure area and no air flow.

Go to this link:

http://www.wilwood.com/products/techtiplocator.asp

and click on "Air Ducting For Short Track Stock Car Racing"

Steve

Kent1

Is front air ducting any benefit for the quarter run? Nice information on the subjective. Very informative.

Judd

iTrader: (1)

You mean a 1/4 mile run? If so - nope, won't help a thing.

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

The designs in this post are setting up duct work to cool the front brake rotors.

Although I have seen ducting used to bring cool air to the filter I think the FRA, FTRA, and SSRA mods are good enough for those applications.

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

This is exactly what I had been told by some stock car guys. You'd want the ducts as centralized as possible.

94bird

I think for those of us who are mounting our ducts on the radiator air diverter underneath the car it's less important to mount them towards the center of the car. If you do that, you're taking air away from the radiator. Besides, underneath the car I bet the air is less influenced by the front end shape of the car trying to divert air to the sides.

BTW, 3 3" hoses to each rotor! I'd love to have that kind of room.