FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Protecting cylinders 7 & 8 seems like something you could accomplish by putting your highest-flowing injectors in the back, and running equal-length, parallel fuel lines into each rail from the rear. The pressure drop and flow reduction from the rear to the front should give you a little bit of a bias to offset the higher temperature in the rear.

On an unrelated note, my next alignment is scheduled for Friday. I might not be able to take care of everything in one appointment because I won't let the shop swap the upper control arms for me. If I can get off work early enough, I might get there in time to do the job myself, but if not, I'll return the following week to get the comparison measurements.

Also, I'm well on my way to completing my custom wiring harnesses. I got fed up a couple of weeks ago with the engine harness and finally decided to do something about it. Bought a spare engine bay fuse box, harness, stainless conduit, stainless mesh for a Faraday shield, and 250 feet of SXL wire for this project. I want to make it modular in sections using standard connectors so that I can change lengths or reroute as necessary. The fuse box will get shrunk and be moved to the passenger side glovebox or under the seat.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

That would be true on puttin the highest flow in the back, but if you were to clean the injectors one would lose track and mix match them all over the place. I may just add 2% more fuel in the rear two and keep an eye on the egt.

I am eager yo see the change in my neg camber changin the uca. I have the crew on standby for i will also upgrade from the sloppy rubber to stiffer poly on the uca and lca...

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Budget an extra day to work on the Revshift 75D bushings. John hasn't had any feedback yet on the flange thicknesses, so they're a little off. I had to sand (I don't have a lathe) 1.15mm off each UCA bushing flange to enable installation and permit the bushings to rotate correctly with 50 ft-lbs of torque (significantly less than required by spec, mind you!).

I might sand both the UCA and LCA flanges down a little more next week once I see how they rotate under full torque. Ultimately, I'll pass that feedback to John so that he can adjust his drawings to account for the lack of "squish" on the 75D polyurethane model.

That reminds me... I really need a better caliper. My $50 cheapo model is good for delta measurements but is probably not accurate enough for absolutes. Looking at a $210 Mitutoyo 500-753-10. So many expensive tools to buy.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

How did your 8piston upgrade go?

I remember sendin my bracket to your buddy and no more news...

Ok you talked right over my head in the poly bushin...i press out the old and press in the new... I will measure mine and see what needs to be done

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I remember talking about the 8-piston RS caliper thing, vaguely, but I don't remember the part about sending a bracket anywhere. More recently, I looked at the caliper again and concluded that we're better off with C6 ZR1 calipers and 390/380mm 5x115 rotors.

The outer face of the bushings need to be shaved down. Not the ID or the OD. If you try to install your 75D-equipped upper control arms in the car, I bet they won't even fit because the dimensions are derived from the 95A model.

I had no issues getting the bushings inserted in the arms, but then the arms would not slip between the upper mounting tabs without some sanding.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I will measure everythin before startin the inserts..

Easier to alter out of the uca than in

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Ryan,

I measured the UCA bushings and found this information

Lookin at the UCA from above, the outer side of the bushings pretrude 7mm, the inner sides pretrude 6mm.The metal bushin in the middle measures 42mm total length

The Poly mounts we have, have a flange height of8mm with an inner bushing length of 42.75mm.

I gave the order to shave four bushing flanges by 1mm and the other four by 2mm mimicking the stock setup. this way i am on point and the UCA is centered properly.

Once i get my car back i will do the same for the LCA and revert back to you.

Thanx for the heads up

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

That closely matches what I found, except that I didn't find the offset that you did. Off the top of my head, that seems like a mistake on GM's part. When I installed my revised UCAs (whose inner and outer flanges I sanded from 8.20mm to 7.05mm), the bushings seemed centered.

My plan for tonight is to painstakingly sand the bushing flanges down to 6.75mm each, recheck rotation at full torque, and then based on those test results, sand them to approximately 6.50-6.60mm. It's going to be hard because the upper control arm mounting flanges are not parallel to each other. If memory serves, they are 0.5mm narrower at the top where the bushing flange ends. I don't really have the tooling to create a beveled flange nor have I tested the mounts with no bushing but full torque to see if those flanges straighten out in the "installed and torqued to spec" condition.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Ok i measured the uca mount and the gap is 43 mm so i am only gonna shave 1mm off each flange head that will give me the same thickness as the mounts thus givin me a similar hold as the stock rubber ones.

Good i remeasured the slots on the mount so i am not waitin on parts yet again for my eagerness.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I had to have two different flange heights, the outers are 7mm, while the inner flanges are 6mm. With this setup the UCA slid comfortably into the mounts and then can be tightened to requested torque value adding more of a squeezing effect.

I am still waitin on the guy to flash my car as a 06 so i may bring it here and check the difference between the cts and sts uca.

Have a great weekend

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Was diggin through my old stock and found a set of old new revshift bushing, 95A for rear upper arms in red, and i also found my old rear upper arms...

I got my new hydraulic bushing tool out and swapped the sloppy rubber bushings for stiffer poly...

I may order another set of poly bushings to see if there is a difference between the GMPP and OEM version or rear upper arms...

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so today i spent about an hr at my tech guys shop, he still swears its not the vats but fouled plugs.

Symptoms, it cranks and starts, then immediately shuts off, you then have to crank crank crank, and it hits then nuttin for a while...

So I humored him and removed the plug from cyl 7 as its the easiest on the hands...

Black as night

So i took out four, and he said he will take the others out and clean them out and try again.

My old crappy fuel could be plaguin me!!!

barrok69

Your cylinders are hydrolocked with sand Haha

Naf

iTrader: (1)

No she took a spoon full of cinnamon, and now all her insides are burnin up...

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Well it wasnt the sparkplugs, same symptoms.. It will crank, one cyl will hit eight then stop, do it again and again no change.

Somethin is shuttin my girl off and no codes are showin up...

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Today has been such a drag, workin in a pet project of renewin the seats for a 92 full size blazer and we just finished mergin a 2010 tahoe seat to the base of a 95. We also added an arm rest for comfort.

Tomorro i will take the seat covers off and clean them up very nicely then package them and send them to lebanon for fitment...

So back to my never endin story, i became a member of autozone so i may have access to schematics and i dug up everythin that could be related to the engine ignition/vats/immobilizer/ anythin that could shut the engine off.

After work I am off to the ktm dealership, pickup two bikes and new ti exhaust for my 500exc, then swing by my tech2 guy give the relays a once over, if it doenst work i am sendin her to the dealership but i have to go home first and pickup the registration book, then i will be allowed to drop it off. Tomorrow mornin i will pass by them and explain my problem and instructions on the battery charger.

Hopefully april i may get this girl started

I am makin a new oil catch can for the clean sode for oil keeps blurpin into the intake tube and its startin to get annoyin...wait a sec, i could just put a check valve on the clean side and be done with it...

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I was about to go postal on my guy last night. My batt was completely drained and he was bein really silly with my expensive braille batt.

So i yanked it from him and towed her to the dealership. They will look into everything and hopefully they can get her started.

I may have to junk her if this doesnt work and believe me i have seen your guys reaction to others sellin parts and i am worried...

rand49er

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

serik21

Check your map sensor make sure the values are changing as you crank if they aren't you either have a bad map or bad wiring some where. But no map connection will result in the symptoms you describe.