416 LS3 Build Underway (Pics inside)
#542
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Ran main power cables from relocated batt/cut of switch to starter. Starter to +positive junction box,junction box to alternator.
Negative terminal from battery to frame.
Where else do I need to ground the motor? Block to frame? Driver side cylinder head to cowl? I appreciate it very much for any suggestions, thank you.
Negative terminal from battery to frame.
Where else do I need to ground the motor? Block to frame? Driver side cylinder head to cowl? I appreciate it very much for any suggestions, thank you.
#543
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
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Ran main power cables from relocated batt/cut of switch to starter. Starter to +positive junction box,junction box to alternator.
Negative terminal from battery to frame.
Where else do I need to ground the motor? Block to frame? Driver side cylinder head to cowl? I appreciate it very much for any suggestions, thank you.
Negative terminal from battery to frame.
Where else do I need to ground the motor? Block to frame? Driver side cylinder head to cowl? I appreciate it very much for any suggestions, thank you.
I would run a smaller ground from the head to the cowl area and probably one from the neg battery post to the rear of the car.
The gauge of wire, length, battery size, starter draw, unibody, SFC's, cage, etc should all be taken into account when deciding how many grounds and their locations.
OEM uses more than one grounding location especially for sensor and PCM grounds with good reason.
#544
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Personally I would run the hot wire kit. It's going to prevent(or drastically reduce) any voltage drop to the pump under heavy load. I'm sure some people will say, "I didn't use the kit and it works fine, etc"
Ideally I would ground it from the neg post to the engine, engine to frame at the bare minimum.
I would run a smaller ground from the head to the cowl area and probably one from the neg battery post to the rear of the car.
The gauge of wire, length, battery size, starter draw, unibody, SFC's, cage, etc should all be taken into account when deciding how many grounds and their locations.
OEM uses more than one grounding location especially for sensor and PCM grounds with good reason.
Ideally I would ground it from the neg post to the engine, engine to frame at the bare minimum.
I would run a smaller ground from the head to the cowl area and probably one from the neg battery post to the rear of the car.
The gauge of wire, length, battery size, starter draw, unibody, SFC's, cage, etc should all be taken into account when deciding how many grounds and their locations.
OEM uses more than one grounding location especially for sensor and PCM grounds with good reason.
Grounded a #2 ga. cable on pass. side block to frame. Another ground strap in front of driver side head to frame. Ground strap from wire harness to back of driver side head. And battery(rear spare tire location) negative post to frame with #2 ga. cable. Let me know, if you guys have better suggestions, thanks. I'm almost there!
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#549
#552
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Bolo we should have my c6 paid off in 1.5 months, then we are going to rush and pay off our prius c. Then I get to start my build
. I wanted to do a 416 build but found out the ls2 would need to be re-sleeved.
So I guess I have to decide wether or not to use the ls2 block and do the 402, or get a different block. If I get a different block I may just go with the ls7. I wanted to put my ls2 internals in my 2003 Silverado (4.8) and get an all new rotating assembly for the ls2, but maybe I will just put the entire ls2 in the Silver Rado!
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
So I guess I have to decide wether or not to use the ls2 block and do the 402, or get a different block. If I get a different block I may just go with the ls7. I wanted to put my ls2 internals in my 2003 Silverado (4.8) and get an all new rotating assembly for the ls2, but maybe I will just put the entire ls2 in the Silver Rado!
#555
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Mr BOLO,
JUST start it. Lol
JUST start it. Lol
#557
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UPDATE: Finally, and I mean finally on the the tail end of this long build. I put all the fluids in---oil, coolant, fuel. Double and triple check all electrical connectors, bolts, -AN lines, and fittings. This beast is ready for its first start up tomorrow. I will post vids and pics then. I can't wait.
#560
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UPDATE:
Initial start up was not 100% successful. She would fire up, but will not turn over and hold idle. However, I am very happy and relieved that the engine sounds great and nasty wanting to come alive! Plenty of oil pressure, no fuel or oil leaks. So with that said, I have to get back with my tuner and see whats going on. I will update as soon as I can.
Initial start up was not 100% successful. She would fire up, but will not turn over and hold idle. However, I am very happy and relieved that the engine sounds great and nasty wanting to come alive! Plenty of oil pressure, no fuel or oil leaks. So with that said, I have to get back with my tuner and see whats going on. I will update as soon as I can.