Keeppace

So I bought by car from this "stealership" and it was suppose to be safetied and when I got it home I quickly relized that the signals were not working, they would light up on the dash but not flash so I took it back to the "stealership" and they "fixed it"........ it worked for awhile but I could barley hear it flashing. Then today I put the signal on and nothing, no indicator light on the dash and actual signals not working as well. but the 4 ways work fine?

any suggestions ? I know the front signals are prone to corrosion but I dont think the 4 ways would be working ???

bgw70

iTrader: (1)

What have you done so far, in regards to troubleshooting?

ICRAZY6

iTrader: (68)

It's a long shot but some bulbs are not designed to be used as flashers. So they burn out really quick. Also, if your pulling bulbs and replacing them I would put some dielectric grease in there. If you pull the bulb and the socket if all corroded I would just replace them with new from an auto parts store. They are fairly cheap.

Keeppace

I know what I have done, but how they fixed the problem when I first got the car I have no idea.

I pulled both bulbs out the sockets had a little corrosion but not much so I put dielectric grease and put them back.

checked, all good.

I think im going to replace the sockets (if I can find them in canada) replace the bulbs and replace the flasher.

but i think the problem is with the signal switch because when i put the signal on either way nothing happens ??

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

We know exactly what the problem is. We are trying to help you be self sufficient in solving this kind of thing...

Here are some hints:

Your dealer didn't do a thing to the car. They are exactly the scum-sucking **** bags you expect them to be.


You can find them in Canada. The car was made in Canada (if you consider Quebec part of Canada) - but none of this is your problem.



If your bulbs work with the hazards on, they are perfectly fine - and so are the sockets, for that matter.


Your switch is fine - you definitely don't want to go there.


Have you tried searching this site? There are millions of threads about this stuff...

Keeppace

it was the relay for the blinker ..... I switched the hazards with the blinker and it worked . but im still going to order the sockets cause they do have corrosion and I cant find them in Canada( I know its weird cause its built here ).

The blinker relay I took out was a heavy duty one does anyone think that would cause issues with rusted sockets. the reason i ask is the blinker relay I took out was an HD one and when I shook it it made no noise and I thought typically when they are broken they rattle ?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

that's it.

The OEM thermal flashers can break or just burn out. (If the later, then they would not rattle.) This is the way all of mine have gone out.

The original flashers for the hazards and turn signals were different because the hazards flash twice the numbers of bulbs (and have twice the amount of power going through it) than the turn signal side of the circuit does.

If you convert to electronic flashers, it shouldn't make a difference. However, if your hazard flasher is not electronic, it won't work with your turn signals well or for long. They won't draw enough power to cause a hazard thermal flasher to flash.


We have lots of threads on this also. You'll want to be sure to check out the sticky regarding how to change the socket components without splicing. The socket comes apart and you can just slide the your wires and terminals (they should still be good) in to the new socket housings.

^ That being said... Charring and Crustiness is the normal problem. GM didn't put the high temp version of the sockets in our cars and the cost of such a thing is astronomical... (That's probably why they didn't put them in.) If you really have Corrosion, then you have other issues - likely a bad or cracked turn signal lens. They should be perfectly dry inside.

bgw70

iTrader: (1)

Make you apply the dielectric grease correctly.
Remember, dielectric grease is an insulator, NOT a conductor. Do not apply the grease to the metal pins. Watch the YouTube video.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This is nonsense and a perfect illustration why we need to start licensing people to be able to use the internet.

How do we get YouTube to pull this video? lol

bgw70

iTrader: (1)

Not here to argue, that has been accomplished thousands of times on the web already. I actually read the instructions on the package, see link. The instructions tell you to put the grease on both terminals of a battery but only the boot and ceramic portions of a spark plug.
Leading me to believe that although dielectric grease is non conductive, it does not cause resistance due to the tight metal to metal contact of the battery terminals.

All of my life (over 50) I have put dielectric grease on plug tips and noticed no issues. I did stop putting it on plug tips but still use it on the boots, per the instructions.
http://www.w8ji.com/images/Cars/Battery/09980.pdf

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for posting this - it's outstanding.

No arguments... I didn't like the video because the guy:
- Uses his interpretation of the Dictionary to derive technical know-how. (There are better books, like the instruction sheet above, for that!)
- Made the statement that the stuff couldn't touch metal. That's obviously not true.

Funny - I've never personally read the instructions before today. I was instructed on the use of this grease by someone who has formulated the stuff - but I should have still read the instructions. I've always understood the product to be a barrier against oxidation. It seems that there is a belief that it enhances electrical contact, but I've never seen anything like that in writing.


I can't think of what the harm would be of putting the grease on the pins of a bulb or any other similar connector. The pins make contact in a very small area and in those spots, they would "scratch" away any grease, leaving the excess to guard against oxidation and moisture intrusion.

I would also think that if applying this product to pins and other electronics was truly detrimental, there would be a big warning on the package or in the instructions. Since the stuff isn't conductive, there should be no harm in it getting anywhere.