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Hey guys. I am going to be removing and rebuilding my ls1 and I want to make sure it is as reliable as possible.
So rocker arms, which trunion kit is best? I've heard good things about comp cams and straub kits. Leaning more towards straub right now.
Also how are is it to install the kit at home with basic tools (no hydraulic press)
Oil cooler question:
I would like to set up a remote filter and oil cooler. By how much (if at all) will this affect my oil pressure?
Should I install a melling high volume oil pump with the high pressure spring as well to compensate?
Hey guys. I am going to be removing and rebuilding my ls1 and I want to make sure it is as reliable as possible.
Oil cooler question:
I would like to set up a remote filter and oil cooler. By how much (if at all) will this affect my oil pressure?
Should I install a melling high volume oil pump with the high pressure spring as well to compensate?
Thanks for the input
Look for a system that uses -10 hose and a remote filter using a larger than stock filter. One that accommodates like an old school big block PF35 tall filter.
For coolers, the tube style cool poorly. Get the stacked plate style.
You may need to purchase individual components, this "better" system may not be available as a ready to install kit.
If you're pulling the timing chain cover, a new pump is a no brainer. How many miles on this engine? Consider a LS2 timing chain. For a pump, a higher volume and/or pressure unit would help when running the oil through lines and a cooler.
70k on the engine. Rebuilding because intake valve broke and gashed a piston.
Ya I figured high volume and flow oil pump would be good regardless if I install a cooler or not.
I'm thinking about rigging up a system that uses amsoil bypass and full flow filter mount, then goes to a 12 row cooler.
Installing the rocker arm bushings is pretty easy. A small press makes it simple and quick, but a bench vice or large C clamp will also work. It's not difficult at all.
A bypass filter is used as an auxiliary filter, and not a primary filter. It does not filter all oil all the time, and that could be a bad thing.
A lot of off the shelf remote filter and cooler kits use a -8 (1/2 inch) hose. IMO, that's too small and you'll get a big pressure drop at high rpm's. As said above, go at least -10.
Also, some remote filter kits use cast components, rubber hose and hose clamps. These parts do tend to fail and springs leaks. Spend the bux and get billit components, and use AN lines and fittings. More expensive in the beginning. But much cheaper in the long run.
Awesome thanks for the info. The amsoil mount i was thinking about is a remote oil filter mount that houses both the full flow and the bypass. The bypass side has a much smaller pipe entering the filter so that it doesn't take too much pressure to run.
Seems like a good idea but I obviously need to do some more research on it.
And yes -10 an all the way around. It's totally worth the extra bucks for durable and heat resistance lines
Using a 90degree oil filter adapter, I would run -10 line to the filter mount. There are holes on the other side of the filter mount that you normally plug that I would use to run oil to the thermostat and finally to the cooler
Yeah, overkill, IMO. The goal of that filtration system is to filter out incredibly small particles. Much smaller than the average oil filter would catch. The goal is to hyper filter the oil, and extend the drain intervals. A filter like that creates a lot of back pressure and down stream pressure loss. That's why you can't use it as a primary filtration system.
Canton Racing Products makes some really nice billit filter mounts and block adaptors.
If this is primarily a street car, you should also plan on using a thermostat or shut off valve. Otherwise the oil will never warm up enough to do it's job properly.
I'm a big fan of the Motorcraft FL-1A filter. I needed a remote filter for this car, so I used a Ford base and that filter. The nice thing is, I have another car that uses the same filter.
The Amsoil bypass system was designed for big truck companies that wanted to extend their oil & filter change intervals. Fewer oil & filter changes across big fleets = big money savings.
Most Motocraft filters have a string around the filter media which can cut through the media over time. The filter media can expand & contract as pressures change.
You'll be fine with a Mobil1, Amsoil, Hastings, K&N or Wix filter. I stock the Wix XP synthetic media filter for all my cars. Online and on the shelf at O Reilly Auto Parts.
Last edited by Paul Bell; 06-27-2016 at 06:32 PM.
Reason: added info