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I figured I would post this here since its a conversion. 97 S10. The truck was already completed and running with the 6.0 that I did and had in in this area. But here is the updated version and what is happening now.
My 13 year old daughter named it already. This truck was my fathers and had a blown up 4 banger. And since my daughter has 2 grandpas, she had names for each of them. My dad was Little grandpa. So, it was her choice.
I thought I would start a new thread on this since the turbo build finally started. I have the truck all striped down. The cage is from S&W race cars. I am using solid aluminum body mounts to help stiffen it up. Its a race truck that will be street driven some. I really didn't like the way I had to run the front down bars but the cab mounts dictated the final location and angle. Plus I need to be behind the stock dash mounts which I am going to try and reuse.
The engine is at Mark G's machine shop in Buda. A friend of mine that's on the forum here has used him a couple of times with good success. Its an almost SBE 6.0 with Gen 4 rods and Diamond pistons, TU2 cam, 317 heads with Manley valves, BTR springs with Ti retainers. Trick Flow balancer. It will run with Deka 80lb injectors supplied by 2 Bosch 044 inline pumps. Fuel lab regulator, Edlebrock fuel rails. Victor Jr. intake and elbow. BW S482 turbo, Tial 44mm wastegate, Precision turbo 50mm Race port BOV, A2W intercooler, Ice/water tank in the bed. Snow Meth injection. It will be run on pump gas. Race gas if needed at the track. The engine will be on solid motor mounts from KRC power steering components.
Controlling all of this is a MS3 Gold box from EFI Source with their built plug-N-play harness.
The rest of the truck will be run on standalone wiring done myself. It will be rocker switches for everything from engine power to lights. This will be a street driven truck so everything has to work. But I already pulled all of the stock wiring our of the dash and under the hood. Stock steering column will not be used.
Powerglide transmission. Hughes converter which will be replaced soon for a higher stall. Its an off the shelf GM3000 so I will most likely balloon it. I have a BTE that I am sending to them for a rebuild and stall. I will need a built driveshaft once I get the engine and trany in so I can measure it. The truck already has a Ford 9" rear end that I built and installed. Moser axles, full spool with a 3.90 gear.
Kirkey race seats.
I am sure I am missing some details, but I will get to them as they come up. I am trying to get this truck running in the next month or so. Its been a long time coming while I was buying the parts for the engine and turbo build. I will keep this thread updated along with the one in the forced induction section.
I went to buy an S10 a couple years ago and literally couldn't fit in it! I'm 6'4 with a long back. Think you could cut the floor out and lower your tubular seat mount?
I thought about it, but even with the lower floor, I don't add any leg room. The rear of the cage is about as far back as I can get it and still have the rear frame supports. So its a length issue.
I finally finished the dash layout. Now the wiring details and finishing the master controls panel. Man I hate wiring. LOL The ARC 8 switch panel on the dash goes to the 8 relay panel on the board.
I cut up my brake booster to use the mount plate for the manual brake setup. The stock master sucks and is hard as hell to push, so I'll be buying the right master cylinder for manual brakes. But this work allowed me to basically finish up the firewall covers and get it painted. Keep in mind, this is a race truck, so its not a perfect paint job. Once I get the new master installed I will clean up the brake lines and install the line lock.
After messing with trying to find a good way to mount the electrical panel with no luck, I ended up cutting it in half and mounted it all behind the dash. The MS3 box is mounted to a plate that mounts with rubber standoffs for vibration reduction. Then the relay/fuse panels and mounted to the roll cage and fits perfectly behind the glove box. So I can reach the fuses and relays pretty easy. All of this was to get foot room. I did start wiring stuff up but did not finish so I didn't take a picture of the wiring mess I have right now.
Almost done with the wiring. At least on the passenger side. I hate wiring, and I really hope that its right and I don't let any smoke out when I put power to it the first time.
Yea, I like the panel too except for anything controlled by the ecm ground. Since the panel only send power from the relay, you cant use that same relay for ecm commanded items. Like the ecm calling for fans, shift solenoid ect. That's why I have a lot of relays.
I'm just trying to figure out where to race it now. After getting deep into this build, I started looking for races or a class to run. Looks like no prep stuff and truck shootouts and there not local. Another problem is I will need more power to be really competitive. I need to run very low 5's in the 1/8 as there are a lot guys running mid to high 4's. My dragster with 1000hp only ran 5.14 in the 1/8th and weighed 1800 lbs. Going to be tough being 3400lbs or close to that.
I did make a change in cam as well. I bought a JFR 224 Isky. Its what Jarrett is running in his 3400lb Nova and running 8.12 in the 1/4 at over 170 mph.
If you cut through the country on 123 you should be close to the San Antonio strip out on I-10. Been a few years since I was there but it was pretty nice and SAFE..
San antonio raceway. Thats where I race. But since Todd lost the track there really isnt much going on except bracket races and test and tune. They have 1 shootout race in the spring. This truck isnt going to bracket well, so I need heads up stuff.
It looks like the TEX275 and no prep stuff is running in Houston and Louisiana. I just hate to drive that far to race it.
Been a while but I finally got the long block back from the machine shop. So hopefully I can get it in the truck this weekend. I still have to do the trunion upgrade and measure for the pushrods. But once I get it installed I am going to make sure it fires up and then start on the turbo piping.
Finally had some time to get the engine and trany stuck into the truck. Had to relocate the trans cross member that I had already made for the original swap. Also had to make a notch in the frame on the passenger side to make some room for where I had place the turbo drain fitting. I am also going to have to relocate the steering shaft I built for it because the new Jardine up and forward header will not fit right now.
Not a whole lot left to do really. I could have it running this next weekend but I don't think I am going to rush it. I need to get a driveshaft built too. I used the rubber motor mounts for now to help locate the engine in the truck. I will be adding solid mounts later.
Heres a picture of the non turbo configuration.
This turbo setup will be a little work but it will keep almost all the cold side piping inside the truck.
Getting a little closer each weekend that I have time. I have the engine pretty much ready to start. I need to add oil and trany fluid and go over it one more time to be sure its tight. I installed the wideband sensor in a temporary pipe tacked onto the passenger side header.
I got the dash installed which looks ok. I need to lower the steering shaft a little to get a better view of the speedo and tach. Then I had to remove the dash to get ready to chase some wiring. When I hooked up the battery, the trany brake solenoid engages which isn't right. Something is allowing it to ground without the button pressed. Also the wideband and Eboost 2 powers up. This is before the ignition is switched on with the switch panel. So I have a few things to diagnose next weekend. I think its due to the fuse block I used from Current Performance. I ended up using a couple of fuses that are hot at all times so I need to change that.
I also have to complete the wiring for the lights, turn signals ect. That's all the small holes made in the left side of the dash. I also have the burnout switch there as well that will engage the rpm limiter in the Gold box.
On the steering wheel from left to right is the Bump, Line lock and then the trans brake.
I want to fire the engine it to make sure its running right and builds oil pressure. Also set the FPR. Then I will start to layout the piping for the hot and cold side.
Well here is the latest update for those not watching the forced Inductions thread. I made it to the dyno yesterday and the numbers were short of my 900+whp goal. I have some issues I am trying to work out in the next few days. I ended up with 699whp at 6250rpm with 16psi boost and then the boost drops off. Maybe the WG is being pushed open. Not sure yet.
What kind of timing did you have in it at those #'s? I think also, with that turbo, your going to have to get up in the 20-22#'s of boost to really get into it's happy spot.
I agree I need to be in the low 20's. We ended pulling a crap ton of fuel out of it and added timing. Ended up at 16 degrees at the 16psi. With some other info I got ahold of today it looks like I had about 31% converter slip at the peak hp made at 6277rpm. So Ill be calling Hughes tomorrow. Also found the WG isnt completely sealed closed. Started it today on a lift and the condensation that my hot side builds up was dripping out of the gate pipe. So I will be working on that tomorrow to see whats going on.
06-29-2016, 01:41 PM
Little Grandpa 
