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Hello,
I want a 10.50-10.70 quarter mile car. I know everyone wants to go faster, but that is what I can realistically afford.
I can afford a 340 lph intank, 60 lb injectors and stock fuel lines. I can not afford a full fuel system. I can afford to JMOD a 4R70w and buy a good Convertor- I can not afford a lentech.
I am trying to be realistic. That said- a 302 will meet my goals but maybe not stay around for five years at that level. I plan to turbo either engine and I have a roller with no engine bought.
So for my goals is it worth it to do a 5.3 /4l80e swap with a turbo or just put HCI and a turbo on an explorer motor? The 302 (or I guess 351 even) route is easier...I'm not sure which is cheaper in the long run.
I had a carbed 408 sbf in a 95 gt that went 10.8's w/ a T-56 and 4.11 gear. It made about 530 at the wheels. The 302 explorer motors usually split around the 500-550 mark? Maybe you could go ahead and get the turbo and supporting mods to go with it and upgrade the engine later. You could even use the sbf headers and just change the flanges when you go lsx, you would have to modify the hot side some going from the 302 to lsx platform. You'll also need to figure out how you want to control the efi portion. Hope this helps.
Oh ok, I misunderstood. If you don't have an engine yet, then I would go straight to the lsx platform and get a th-400 trans or a 4L80e if you want o/d. If you go the 80e route it will cost more $$ converter/computer controlled etc.
I had considered both and based on my research- this is a rough list of what I would need.
5.3 engine
LS6 Manifold
Fbody Oil Pan
Fbody Front Accessories
PCM.
Harness (Speartech)
4L80E
Yank Convertor
Trans Cooler
AN Trans Lines
Hurst QuarterStick
Cross Member- 4l80e??
6.0 Manifolds
3" Downpipe to Y pipe to hook to high flow catted H Pipe
Mac Flowpath Catback and high flow catted HPipe (Both already on Car)
Master Power 76 mm Turbo
Turbo Flange and Piping
Tial Wastegate and Bov
Intercooler and Piping
Feed and Drain Lines
Stock 4.6 K Member
UPR Adaptor plates for stock 4.6 K Member
LS1 Radiator and Fans
60lb Injectors
HP Tuners
340 LPH in tank pump
Stock Fuel Line to 6AN to connect to LS1 Rails
New PS lines
New AC lines
Jump straight into the LS platform it will be cheaper/stronger and respond to modification much better.
Few points on your list.
Run a th400 or glide depending on weight. You can gear the car for the type of driving you do, OD isn’t necessary with a turbo LS, they make more than enough power to pull a 2.73 gear and 28" tire and easily meet your goals.
You don’t need an ls6 manifold for your goals. Any stock intake will work. The LS1 intake is much cheaper if you need hood clearance.
You don’t need an Fbody oil pan and they aren’t even desirable. They have a central pickup and starve the engine for oil when used in a drag racing application. Make a truck pan fit, or use cheap aftermarket pan.
Run a Megasquirt MS3 or micro ECU for a drag car. It will save money in the end. By the time you buy all your 2-step boxes, boost controllers, traction boxes etc… the MS3 more than pays for itself. Don’t need HP tuners either.
The masterpower 76mm is not very good. It has a small exhaust wheel. Look into the VSracing 78/75 if you want a good t4 budget turbo. (around $500)
Don’t buy 60lb injectors. It’s a waste and no cheaper than 80lb injectors. With turbo stuff buy big on fuel and buy once. Deka 80’s are #340 shipped. You can also decap a set of stock 36lb injectors and they will flow about the same as 60’s.
340lph pump is ok, but the 400 walbro is a better pump design, quieter, and flows more. There is also a 450lph walbro pump for not much more. (around $125). Also theres a louder AEM 380 pump that is inline and better than the 340 for around the same cost. Either will work great. The AEM 380 will flow more at higher pressues (higher boost levels) The walbro flows more at lower pressures.
Thank you for the revisions.
I am a novice at GM automatics so please bear with me:
As far as the turbo 400 goes, can you just grab any turbo 400 out of a truck and use it or are some more desirable?
Or if that is not a good route, can you suggest a few companies to look at for a "new" turbo 400? I can't ever see me going over 650 hp and even that may be a stretch. I don't need a 1300 hp Trans lol
Should be able to grab any TH400 core for around $100. They don’t need anything fancy. Shift kit and clutches would do it. Should be able to pick up a complete one for 300-700 if you look at local craigslist. Any trans shop should be able to build one for those power levels. B&M sells them for about $1100 from summit if you wanted to go that route. PTC also makes a good 10” converter that will bolt right up to an LS/TH400/Glide combo for $450ish. I’d go that route…
This forum is great. Thank you for putting up with my dumb questions.
3 more If you will allow me:
1. My 95 roller is rough and I have a guy who has been bugging me to buy it. If I was to pick up a new chassis to start from- what is easiest. I like notchs or 94-98 mustangs.
A v6 would be cheapest and looks easier due to not having abs to fool with (hydroboost). Or are all about the same?
2. If I use 6.0 headers I know they won't clear my AC compressor. Is there a manifold that will? Or should I just get one of the AC relocate brackets that puts it up top?
3. What year 5.3 should I be looking for ideally or does it matter?
Less weight the better. If you can find a roller with a cage and a decent rear end in it you'll be way ahead. Look at racingjunk.com and CL for rollers. Need at least a 6pt cage for 10.70's. Notches got popular in the last 5-6 years, so the price is up. It's pretty hard to beat the fox body aftermarket though so it's probably still one of the cheapest platforms to start with.
Point the header back on the side with the AC compressor and run the cross over behind the car and under the trans.
Like so... with your mild power goals you can use 2" piping on the cross over.
Look for 2005 and up LS engines, most of them have the stronger rods and full floating pistons.
I see you were at LSFest this past weekend Forcefed86, thanks for posting pics of the new Hooker turbo manifolds to use as an example...that was a great event!
I never knew about racing junk. I have looked at craigslist. I'd just like to find a notch that isn't hacked to hell and rusted out. I don't expect good paint after 30 years - but some of these people ask retarded money.
If it has to be a mustang I see the mid 90s and early 2000 v6's going cheap all the time and they are still clean. I did the s10 to be a little different but what I'd really like to do is a 1980s Mazda 626...they were RWD and would sneak up on some people.
I would stick with SN95 or new edge for a better price. Coupes are bringing $$. Some guys think they have gold and total junk. 5.3 turbo should be a 9 sec car with susupension, We have had a few 5.3 turbo builds make about 700hp all day long. I'm more of a nitrous guy.
Something like this for is pretty darn hard to beat.... I'm sure they would take a little less as well. By the time you build a roller you'll probably have more than 12k in it. not to mention a million man hours.
Light weight and already caged with nice suspension and rear. Would be a beast with a little traction management.
Does anyone know if an LS1 swapped SN95 would pass the annual VA state inspection? I do not have emissions in my county. I hate to build it then not be able to pass inspection.
I can't get a clear answer- the VA website says that emissions equipment has to be in place .... Seems like a pain in the *** to swap all that to a mustang. Nothing says the motor had to be a ford, but I can see them not liking it.
I tied to go to several inspections stations and ask but they all think your trying to buy an inspection even though I tell them up front I will have nothing to do with that and I'm just asking a question.
Can't register a car historic until 25 year in VA. MD (my home state) is 20 years. They are not making this as easy as it should be o
09-12-2016, 11:31 AM
Have a 95gt - I want a 10.50 to 10.70 Car 
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