Figured I'd post up an initial review since i don't see many for the Lt1. I'll update this thread as i get her going. Will be about another month from now, maybe sooner.

Anyways, part # D3324B, so far, initial quality seems ok. This is my 2nd set of headers to ever buy, last at was in 2002 and were Hedman. These seem better, but i went super cheap then.

So far, installation seems alright. The driver side, you have to cut the #1 or L1 tube off, they have a pre-cut slot where you finish the cut. You slide it off the rest of the header, and set aside. You install the rest from underneath, and have them hang on hand tight bolts or studs. I have bolts currently, and considering studs.

Then you're supposed to slide the L1 tube back into is respective tube in the header. This is currently kicking my ***. It goes around the steering shaft, so the steering shady goes through the headers. I've given up while i install the passenger side. Which so far is a bitch as well. Instructions included say it might be necessary to raise the engine. But i think i can get them without raising the engine. If i have to, I'll wait until i get my motor mounts next week to finish.

instructions say to use ultra hi temp copper silicone sealant on the L1 connecting pipe. This seems odd to me to not be welded. Is this really sufficient? Or should i use a different sealant, or have the exhaust shop weld it up? Welding it will require it be cut to be removed in the future, or remove the steering knuckle and separate the shaft.

Any advice on what type of sealant would be best, let me know. I could order industrial stuff through my job if need be. What's suggested in the instructions doesn't seem like a good idea.

On hand, i have some copper coat gasket compound, and copper spray-a-gasket i had from other projects at work. I thought this stuff might work, but wasn't too sure. I've never seen headers that had a slip fit and only use sealant and not welds. So, yeah, advice is helpful.

 

Permatix "ultra copper" RTV is good.

With that said IDK the specifics of what you describe as I can't see a pic of this cut thing you describe. Doug, used to be Doug Thorley, makes good headers but IDK if the ones you note are for "LT1. Summit shows them for 93-97 but "SBC Gen 1" so IDK if they are "D" port for LT1/4.

If you can make them fit, great but the cut and either sealant/sleeve/clamp or weld part seems "odd". I assume they made them with the cut/seal/sleeve thing so they cold be removed vs cutting up if you weld them

post up some pics and how they do fit.

 

I'll get pictures later. My phone is broken, and the wife's phone is weird. I'll be getting a replacement soon, when i do, I'll post up the pics.

i ordered them from Jegs, and they came up under the search for my car. They are square port, not D port though.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dougs-Headers/...324-B/10002/-1

That's what i ordered. They look exactly the same as Hooker Super Comp in the pictures on Jegs. After some research, Hooker makes alot of stuff in Mexico, just like these Doug's, which makes me think they are indeed the same, from the same factory. But with a different name obviously.

https://www.amazon.com/Dougs-Headers.../dp/B0050SFIHM

This amazon link shows the slot I'm talking about. Left header in the picture is the driver side. That line between the first and second tube, is where you cut to separate the first tube from the rest. I don't see any other way except removing the steering wheel and shaft, then install the header and guide the shaft in between the space between the first tube and second.

I'll get some detailed pictures soon. It is a little odd to describe. They do not actually say to cut it, but "install header WITHOUT L1 TUBE from underneath the car, then apply ultra copper whatever and slip L1 tube in". So, it did not say to cut, but those directions, and the 80% notch implied to cut. I'll post up pictures soon. Just realized i don't need photo bucket and stuff for this site. I'll get them up tomorrow after work.

 

I just can't see RTV being any good against the exhaust temps that close to the head. I don't have any good experience with RTV and exhaust gases. The RTV failed everytime on me. However, my leak may have been so big, that there was not enough gasket to allow it to work right. This was with trying to install RKSport headers on my 3800 Series II V6. Some of my feedback helped them correct a couple of issues with them on the 3800 series II engine. I think I was one of the first people to try to put headers on a 3800 series II back then(back in the '96 timeframe).

However, I ended up just sticking with my stock exhaust manifolds and using a muffler system from them. DynoMax Super Turbo. Best sounding muffler for the 3800 Series II I've ever heard. Sounded like a small V8. The Flowmasters, on the same type engine, sounded like crap compared to the DynoMax.

I think welding is the way to go, but I'd avoid cutting it at all costs if you can. Maybe an exhaust shop can fab it up in a way so that you can avoid having to cut it if you need to uninstall them in the future.

This is one of the reasons I stayed away from long tubes for so long. I was put off by all the hacking that had to happen with them. It's what made the Kooks so worth the money in my opinion. Zero hacking and zero interference issues with anything.

 

I think Jegs, and others, list them for application on 93-97 aka LT1/4 motors because they will "bolt" to the heads....but IDK if the square port header lines up with the D port LT1/4 head without any slight blockage.

That aside steering/suspension parts may conflict with a "plug & play installation. (aka cutting and welding header, removing steering shaft, etc)

Jegs also sells the Pacesetters which may "fit" better. Maybe someone who has those can comment.

IMHO I would not cut and then RTV in a sleeve/clamp as a fix. I would weld it...but if that meant the header needed to be cut to get off again...I would find another header that does not require that to install. My $.02

 

I agree with *****. I have ran Pacesetter LT's and they did not fit perfectly. They required some massaging to clear the steering knuckle on the driver side.

 

I'm running Pacesetters at the moment, and while the fit isn't amazing, it's not terrible either, after spending 20 minutes grinding the ears off of the steering shaft and getting each end set just right, i have no rubbing or clearance problems. I am happy with them for what i paid.

 

I'm not comfortable with any silicone that close to the exhaust. But what about this copper coat stuff? I know it'll stand up to the heat, the spray stuff is great for holding gaskets in place, but I got this can of stuff with a brush. Used it on some other hi temp stuff at work, but wasn't an IC engine exhaust.

Anyways, i was not aware of the need to chop the flange up, or i would've gone with some shorties maybe. I figured i was gonna need to beat on the L1 for clearance of the steering shaft. But the Hookers looked exactly the same, only went with Dougs to save 40$ because they were on sale. Dammit.

I refuse to spend good money on Chinese stuff. I'll get already cheap parts from there, but i refuse to support mechanical China. I'll settle on Mexico way before settling in Chinese.

Anyways, I've already cut the flange, so i doubt Jegs will take them back, but if they end up being more pain that it's worth, maybe I'll send them back if they will and just suck it up and get the damn Kooks.

I'm about to get some pictures here after the baby goes down for the night. So I'll post back in a couple hours.

 

Passenger side. Fully welded.
This is the notch, you can see the coating stops where there was only 1/4" max left uncut. The other pipe is semi mounted, this should give you an idea though.
The connecting end. It's flared to receive the L1 tube. But can't really tell in this pic. Kinda see the inside lip.
Gives you an idea of how is supposed to go. Goes around the steering shaft. All pictures i could find of the Hooker Super Comp LT1 headers have this same notch and flared L1 pipe.

 

So, i can get this L1 tube in place, buttoned up tight. Im thinking this copper paste gooey stuff will work, i don't really want to get it welded, because they'll come off eventually.

but then again, if i remove the cradle, I'll unbolt the steering shaft anyways....

so, this copper stuff will obviously work only temporarily, but would it **** up the welds being in there? Or i guess just remove the L1 pipe and clean it. Anything is possiblewith a lift and these cars. I keep forgetting shops don't work off their backs....for the most part anyway.

that's where I'm at. Sealant+clamp for temp? Full weld? I hate options can never pick one.

 

Can you cut 3/4" slits in the end of the bigger tube using a bandsaw, hacksaw, or "saws-all" and find an exhaust clamp the diameter of the header tube to put on it? Much like how a cat back would slip onto a y-pipe and get clamped.

The exhaust clamp would compress the end of the tube where the slits are on either side of the pipe and seal it off for the most part.

Like the tube in the upper left corner here...only the slits would be as wide as the bandsaw blade.

 

My original long tube hookers were that way, I didnt use any type of sealant or clamps and it was a very good fit, No leaks at all, but those were Hookers..

 

Use the copper rtv silicone at that joint like the instructions say. Let it dry at least 12 hours maybe 24 if it's 9 degrees like here. My TPIS LTs are welded and go around the steering shaft. The hole is rather large but they're not bad getting in and out.

But your #1 primary is meant to disassemble for removal, so ur gonna be in he'll if u weld them. And what about trashing the ceramic coating? I have the old style 3 bolt like hookers. They've retained their ceramic coating 14 years now. Polished just like new. Been fabulous headers.

My passenger was cake. I can have it out in 5 min.

 

My hotside is all sealed up with copper rtv, its good stuff.

 

Well, i got it installed. But just realized in our of anti thread lock, so it's only hand tight. Had to snug down the driver side and use a rubber mallet and some persuasion to get it home, but it's tight. I used the copper coat stuff. I'll see how that holds up.

gonna order my motor mounts, oil pan, and rear main housing and then I'll be done. Well, done enough for the muffler shop.

anyone local to Houston can give me a recommendation? I'm tempted to get a welder and exhaust kit myself depending how much the shop will charge. Wok be a good excuse for a welder to the wife...

 

I bought my supercomps when they first came out for our cars in the late 90's. There's lots of play in the slip fit in that primary. I've tried everything, but it all eventually blew out. Have a band clamp on it now, but it still leaks. Whatevs.

 

overall in not too worried about it. It's going to be better than stock already, and I'll eventually upgrade to something better like Kooks or something similar.

had to put off getting my new mounts and stuff for a week, been busy with the mother in laws car. But today i finally got the ******* pilot bearing out. No tricks worked, broke 3 different pullers, so today i finally took the chisel to it. That sucked. Big time.

but i got the mounts in, need to order my oil pan and all lower gaskets. Might as well do it right while I'm this far apart.

Standby for completion review in a couple weeks. She'll be in the road annoying the neighbors.

 

so next time, or for others who may see this thread, rent (loan-a tool) or buy a "blind hole puller". Plug & play and takes more time to actually screw on the end of the tool than to remove the pilot bearing.

This is the Autozone rental 27128

 

What I found out the hard way with pilot bearings is if you only hammer on one side it can become crooked in the pilot hole and won't come out. Once I tapped on all sides with a claw/slide hammer it came out real easy.

 

They were always out at the local Autozone and O'Reilly, we're probably in stock that day. I broke 2 from Harbor freight, the 2 teeth kind. And the puller my buddy had at his shop just tore the race all the hell without budging the hardened part.

Took awhile, but is out. Now to get the proper tool to seat the bushing.