Ok. I got the chrome LED Harley lights, due to the product info indicated they were 2400 lumens. I will probably keep the LMC / LED headlight setup and skip the HID projector conversion due to these fogs are that good.

 

Well I tackled this project tonight on my Formula. I didn't get any pics yet, still working on the rest of the lighting upgrade tomorrow.
Here's a step by step, I think it'll make sense to anyone wanting to try this on a Formula.

Remove the factory fog light assemblies thru the trap doors on the underside of the car - these make life easy, and disassemble the foglight from the bracket.

Once you have the bracket separated, take the new lamp minus any bracket, and you can wedge the bottom two bracket hole ends around the new lamp bottom heat sink edges. This helps to align everything.

Run to your favorite home improvement store and get some 3" long 10-24 philips head screws, some 3/8" long 10-24 philips head screws, some 1/2" long 10-24 philips head screws, some M8 washers (these will fit the screws and come in packs of like 10), and some nylon 10-24 nuts. the 3" bolts I bought came with matching nuts and there were like 6 in the pack. Also get a 4 pack of generic 1" x 1/2" right angle brackets.

Take the light and CAREFULLY (it's easy to get off center) drill the back of the heatsink/case of the new lamps - just like others did - right down the center of the case horizontally. I don't remember the bitsize, it barely allowed the screw to go threw, it was a snug fit that I had to screw the 3" long screw thru. Run the screw thru and mockup your right angle brackets allowing the 3" screw to pass thru one end of them, with the other end of the right angle being parallel to the back of the case. If you get off center you may have to use tin snips to shorten them a tad to make the hole line up a bit better (had to do this one one as I drilled a bit too close to the back of the case). These brackets are about the perfect size to allow the stock bracket to fit snugly against the lights, without kinking the wire too much. My buddy had my cutoff wheel or I would have notched the stock bracket allowing the wire to pass thru it, but I wouldnt have been able to be that precise with it anyway so I left the stock bracket intact.

I held the right angles where I wanted them, and used a small drill bit to scribe where I wanted to drill two holes for the smaller screws to go thru. This is what attaches the bracket to the light using the right angle brackets. I used the 3/8" screw on one side (due to clearance from the mounting stud on the bracket) and the 1/2" screw on the other.

If you're able to use a small nut (included with the 3" screws) and a couple washers in the center area of the light, and use needle nose pliers to hold it as you thread the 3" screw back thru, this will give you an additional place to torque and add strength to the bolt to better keep the assembly together.

Use a nylon nut on the other side and a flat washer if it will fit to keep the 3" screw in place and tight. Everything fit so well, it was much sturdier than I figured it would be.

I hope this make sense, once you get the pieces, I think it will. Its a similar process to the TA bracket, but you have to use something - in my case the right angle brackets and drill 2 holes in the stock bracket - to attach the light itself to the otherwise not ideal formula bracket with the 3 bottom style studs/nuts that attach to the bumper.

 

Thanks Photochop! I can't change the title of this thread, but I did edit the original post and put a direct link to your post with credit.

 

Finally had some time to finish my front lighting makeover on the car. Components are: Innovative 55w 5k hid kit with morimoto dual relay harness bought separately, Hella 60mm projectors, tram low beam plates, LMC high beam housings and basic bulbs (for now), new parking/front turn signal light lenses and switchback bulbs, and the amber fogs with the brackets fabbed up like I mentioned in my last post. Overall I'm very happy, but I need to figure out a way to aim the fogs up and in a tad, and if anyone has any pointers for me regarding the alignment of these HIDs I'd appreciate it. I think I have them close, but better guidelines to optimize output from these specific housings would be nice to hear. I'll snap some better pics later with the bezels back on. This is literally right out of the garage to do a basic alignment.

 

Looks good. For my fogs, I used blue loc-tite on my bolts that I used to mount them to the bracket. It allowed me some time to get them installed and align them before it dried. On both sets of fogs, once I had them set they never have moved any.

As for headlights, they're SOB to align. I hate them in that aspect. My adjusters have to be turned in almost all the way before they're close to being aligned. I ended up having to get replacement adjusters since the other heads eventually stripped. My car seems finicky when it comes to it's headlight upgrades tho.

 

I tinkered with the alignment of everything today, I used a 5/16" spacer on the bottom bolt and 2 flatwashers on each upper bolt (these have a 3 bolt pattern), to angle them up to about where they need to be. I need to get some better pics, but the whole front of the car is freaking bright compared to how it used to be.

 

So I'm looking at the "Spot Light (Chrome)" option ones and one is listed as 2700K and one is listed as 6000K. What's the color or output difference? I'm assuming everyone gets the 6K lights. Thanks.

 

2700k is amber (orange) tone, 6000k are similar to my headlights pictured but a little more blue tone. It's personal preference, I'm more than satisfied with my 5000k headlights and don't feel a need for more light output from fogs. I'm glad I went with the 2700k lights as fogs because they'll function better in actual fog than a brighter bulb will.

 

Totally agree, I love my orange ones too with 5000K HID low beams! Completely changes the front end at night and very unique and noticeable.

 

What is the proper orientation of the lights? Cable on the top or bottom? I think I am gonna do this.

 

I recommend hooking yours up to your battery or power supply to find orientation. We've seen them go both ways, even some that the DOT upside down when oriented correctly

 

I am finding lots of 4.5 in harley auxiliary lights on ebay/amazon. To anyone who has done this recently, what are you using?

 

Look at my pictures, especially in OP and find some exactly like that or similar. It's all about having the room for a bolt and spacer on each side.

 

Has anyone figured out an easy way to get these to line up better for the up and down alignment? The amazon page finally has the lights linked originally soon to be available (May 4th) but I do not want to order unless I can be sure I can align these properly. I don't like the idea of just soaking it in loctite to get it aligned.

Also, to the OP, how is the long term on these? They still work?

 

No issues at all. They both come on every time and actually checked yesterday and no cracks.

You have a couple of options if you don't want to use Loc-Tite. Could cut out part of the heat sink so you can fit a lock nut. Use the good-n-tight method. I used the latter with loc-tite as a safety precaution. It may not even be needed, but I'd rather be safe than sorry if I had to pull them back out and do it all again.

 

Another question.. how do you plug these in? The ones I see on amazon say they are H4. Aren't our stock fogs 880?

 

Both sets I've had have the same plug our fog lights take so no wire cutting required.

 

ok I will get these:

They seem to be closest to what most used. I will see how it goes. Only $40 too.

 

Those look like they should work out. Post pictures when you get them installed.

 

Got the foglights yesterday. They are definitely not the ones pictured on the Amazon page that I ordered from. The Amazon pictures showed the pigtail at the bottom middle, but the ones I got have the pigtail on the side, taking up part of the fin I need to drill through. There is also a fin that runs horizontally right through the middle. From what I can tell the versions I received are the worst possible ones for this project.