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check out this cobble job. Looked like they (previous owner i assume) totally eliminated the female connector and some how spliced in the wires into both ends of the male connector. then siliconed the ba-jeesus out of it.
i know what I am doing this weekend - new connectors are below. any idea why one wire is larger than the others?
check out this cobble job. Looked like they (previous owner i assume) totally eliminated the female connector and some how spliced in the wires into both ends of the male connector. then siliconed the ba-jeesus out of it.
Wow. That's a number... BTW - The grey connector body is the "female" and your new one is your male connector. (The pins inside are reversed. The female connector has male pins and the male connector has female pins.)
Do you expect to be able to re-use that female connector with the male pins? (Maybe you can remove the pins and clean them up?) If so, you are missing the connector lock, which is typically tethered to the female connector, (if I remember correctly) which can be had separately. (p/n - 12020833)
Originally Posted by bleepster
i know what I am doing this weekend - new connectors are below. any idea why one wire is larger than the others?
That connector part number is used for many different applications on different cars. Some may require a larger wire there, but ours does not. Having a larger wire shouldn't cause any issue for you. Usually those GM connectors come with really nice heat-shrink butt connectors that melt a cement inside the connector when you shrink them that makes them water resistant.
so, i cut out the connector and inquiring minds want to know....
i tore it apart and OH MY. the last repair was made from female connectors, cut in 1/2 length wise, then placed over the pins, then siliconed shut. check out the corrosion. do it right the first time people.
on the last two pics, there is a plastic bushing on the headlight housing that the control arm connects to. mine is worn and broke. is a replacement necessary? where can i get replacement bushing?
thanks for insight and thoughts. replacement pigtails arrive today. the other side had the original connector, however, the pins that operate the motor must have failed at some point. wires were cut and directly connected to the motor, completely by passing the connection pins. i cut that out as well and will replace the entire connection.
Wow, what a mess. One of my biggest pet peeves is people "fixing" things when they don't have any idea what they are doing. Dealing with that on our house right now...but that's a discussion for another forum. There are so many resources that can help you do the job right--repair manuals, YouTube, etc.- or take it in to a professional.
so, my new pig tails arrived. the connector is way smaller than original. I got Dorman replacements. the wire diameter is a touch smaller.
WSSIX99 - do you think that matters? here is what I received:
Dorman TECHoice GM Multi-Purpose Socket w/ Pigtails (645-500)
^ That's not the right part, at all. It's from a totally different family of connectors that isn't on our car.
I think the replacement connector for the headlamps and motor is the
PT1251 - 15306088. I think (but am not 100% sure) that connector should match to the other AC Delco connector you purchased.
One thing I've learned with the harnesses I've rebuilt is that the OEM Delco/Delphi connectors last a lot longer than the generic brands.
I used the dormans, and everything works just fine. while torn apart, i am also going to replace the high beam and low bean connections, i am surprised how loose they were, plus there was some corrosion.
so, with the headlights still removed, i hooked up the lights and operated the lights. both motors spun and both high and low beams work.
seeing how i cycled the lights on and off, when I reinstall the lights, do I then fully close them manually and then they will be set?
reading posts from other people who will have one pop up and the other close - lol
No need to worry about it. The motors are dumb and just keep spinning in a given direction until the actuating arms hit the stops. When they stop moving, the headlight module senses it and cuts the power. So they self-adjust if the electrical is hooked up properly.
Yea. Those plastic pieces cover the stops. The motor closes with a lot of force and the rivets in the actuating arms loosen up over time, so the stops clunk, the rivets rattle, and the bumper cover is a little wavy - so the headlight hits that and also makes some noise.
When those plastic stops get brittle and fall off, the hack/fix is to cover the stops with a short piece of fuel hose. That might quiet things up some. All of mine have the hose cover now. It seems pretty quiet to me these days, but I might just be old and a little hard of hearing...
so, i was just cleaning things up, doing some painting on the brackets before reassembling. one question i have, is there anyway to "tighten" up the linkage that runs from the headlight motor to the bottom of the headlight housing?
prior to me fixing things, when my lights were fully shut, i could manually lift the head lights up maybe 1/2" is that normal? all my bushing (except the one mentioned in post #4 are in good shape.
There shouldn't be much play at the motor gear. Usually, when the arm hits the stop, things are so tight, there isn't a lot of play. I'd check it again after everything is fixed.
stole this pic from one of your older posts wssix99
i have some play (wobble) at this joint. on both arms.
i'll take pics of my problems and then show you how there is play once the lights are shut.
i'm busy tonight after work, so i'll post up on Thursday
05-16-2017, 11:32 AM
no wonder my head lights wont open..... 
