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If you want better straight line traction you might want to look into putting the rears at -1.5 camber at the max. You'll most likely need to notch the subframe eyelets to get it down from where you are though in the rear. As far as the fronts go, I'm pretty sure you're at the mercy of your ride height to get it anywhere near -1.5 camber so without raising it you're kind of stuck @ -2.x.
I found that my current setup with -2F/-2.3R is a bit too aggressive for the street and even the track. The contact patch with 275's all around isn't being utilized to the fullest and straight line traction suffers immensely. I'm going to raise my front up a smidge and when I put the 295's on the rear I'll adjust accordingly also to get it set to around -1.5F/-1.8R camber.
I had the rear at -1.5 but I put it where it's at it handles like a slot car I can definitely go less camber
In the mean time I hit a ******* 2x4 and blew out a new tire
Guess im gonna have to order them acdelco oil filters on ebay. Walmart or Napa or discount auto or AutoZone dont carry the pf58 or pf59. They say they were discontinued. So ill use the tiny pf46 for this oil change
- Put close to 300 miles on the car on track Saturday/Sunday. Car ran solid all weekend, albeit with oil temperatures higher than expected (particularly considering ambient temps were mild, mid/upper 70s). Hit Big Orange Racing Supply (aka Home Depot) Saturday evening to pick up some star washers to try to "fix" the couple of typical grounds, but it didn't seem to make a difference.
Transitioning back to street trim - swap pads (front and rear), rotors (front only), wheels & tires, remove brake cooling ducts.
- Discovered Friday evening when I went to prep the car that the chunk of truck retread that I hit with the front right corner took away the bottom part of the fender liner:
I have a big chunk cut out of the liner to make room for the brake cooling ducts to come through, so I'm sure that contributed to the damage. Basically everything below the factory brake cooling duct exit hole is now gone. I had to put a couple zip-ties from the back corner of the radiator under-tray up to the front subframe to keep it from flapping in the breeze too much.
Took it down to have it aligned yesterday and this was the best he could do. Said the drivers rear was a little lower than the right. That's why the camber is a little out on it. I need to spin my GC spring perch up a bit and take it back. He also said the shop didn't have the tool to adjust the front camber/caster so I need to find one and take back to him. Said it would be free to get everything lined out so I'm going to try and rent one or build one. While on the rack he was trying to adjust the rear toe links and the drivers side was seized up. Ended up snapping it and of course it was Memorial Day so not a single dealer parts department was open but found a good one at a salvage for 10 bucks.
Took it down to have it aligned yesterday and this was the best he could do. Said the drivers rear was a little lower than the right. That's why the camber is a little out on it. I need to spin my GC spring perch up a bit and take it back. He also said the shop didn't have the tool to adjust the front camber/caster so I need to find one and take back to him. Said it would be free to get everything lined out so I'm going to try and rent one or build one. While on the rack he was trying to adjust the rear toe links and the drivers side was seized up. Ended up snapping it and of course it was Memorial Day so not a single dealer parts department was open but found a good one at a salvage for 10 bucks.
Same thing happened to the stock toe rods on my car with only 46k miles on the odo. I luckily had replacement Creative steel ones purchased waiting in the wings for the right opportunity.
You're better off getting a Tech 2 from Alibaba for about $350 and programming the keys yourself. It'll save you time money in the long run, particularly if you need to bleed your ABS system.
05-27-2017, 09:23 PM
