LS3 Oil Pressure *New Crate Motor
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Just checking to make sure I am on the right track after reading all the posts here.
I have a brand new 6.2 crate motor, removed the pan and replaced with the GM 19212593 oil pan, pickup and new o-ring. First LS motor, never fired it up with pan that came with it due to my swap.
Oil pressure cold is 28-30lbs, after warm and idle its 16-20lbs
Pressure spikes good when squeeze the throttle (40-50)
Thinking of redoing the o-ring and dropping the pan.
Although, I've read a few posts where these numbers seem reasonable for hot motor at idle.
Still has original oil from factory in it.
Obviously don't want to take any unnecessary risks with this new motor.
Gauges - I am using Dakota Digital VHX with the BIM module reading the ODBII port, so I believe this pressure is getting updated directly from the reading of the motor's ECM.
Thanks in advance for any feedback
I have a brand new 6.2 crate motor, removed the pan and replaced with the GM 19212593 oil pan, pickup and new o-ring. First LS motor, never fired it up with pan that came with it due to my swap.
Oil pressure cold is 28-30lbs, after warm and idle its 16-20lbs
Pressure spikes good when squeeze the throttle (40-50)
Thinking of redoing the o-ring and dropping the pan.
Although, I've read a few posts where these numbers seem reasonable for hot motor at idle.
Still has original oil from factory in it.
Obviously don't want to take any unnecessary risks with this new motor.
Gauges - I am using Dakota Digital VHX with the BIM module reading the ODBII port, so I believe this pressure is getting updated directly from the reading of the motor's ECM.
Thanks in advance for any feedback
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Roger that on the mechanical gauge. I have the parts left over from the priming so I can attempt to pull pressure off that, any issue with lower front drivers side?
If I am below 24 at 1K then I will be sure to drop and replace o-ring.
Thanks for the GM specs tech@WS6store
I will report findings
If I am below 24 at 1K then I will be sure to drop and replace o-ring.
Thanks for the GM specs tech@WS6store
I will report findings
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Did you check for aeration of the oil (bubbles/foam on dipstick)? Do the O-ring if there is.
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My gauge may be a little off, but when I installed my crate engine, it was never that low and after 2k miles, still is not that low.
When I changed the pick-up tube, the o-ring on the original pick-up was a lot thicker than the one on the pick-up I bought from GM. I used the original one and the one on the new pick-up would have been pretty loose.
When I changed the pick-up tube, the o-ring on the original pick-up was a lot thicker than the one on the pick-up I bought from GM. I used the original one and the one on the new pick-up would have been pretty loose.
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Is that normal or indicative of an o-ring issue?
Thank you
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That does seem a bit low. I just recently went through the break-in procedure on my 430-Hp Crate LS3 on an engine stand. Cold Idle was around 45 psi and hot idle was around 35 psi. My stand uses a Liquid Filled Mechanical Gauge so it should be very accurate. I am using Mobil1 Extended Performance 5w30 Full Synthetic in it if that matters. What weight oil are you using? In my opinion, and what I go by, anything less than 22 psi at hot idle is a concern, especially on a new engine.
WS6Store has got you going in the right direction. The Crank Case Pressure could be the cause of the lower oil pressure.
There should not be in crankcase Pressure, at least none to be noticed through the DipStick tube.
WS6Store has got you going in the right direction. The Crank Case Pressure could be the cause of the lower oil pressure.
There should not be in crankcase Pressure, at least none to be noticed through the DipStick tube.
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Just curious if you can pull oil pressure from the front drivers side oil sending port? I was thinking of going from the 16M 1.5 to 1/8 NPT for the mechanical gauge.
If not, is there an easy way to tap into a place near the oil filter or do I just need to pull it from the top of the motor?
Thanks
If not, is there an easy way to tap into a place near the oil filter or do I just need to pull it from the top of the motor?
Thanks
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I have Mobile 1 5W/30 with new filter ready to go once I complete the first leg of the recommended break in procedure.
Thank you
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Most places will recommend not using fulk synth for break in. You should instead use a break in oil or concentrated oil additive and conventional oil for the initial break in period. Break in oils are popular now and nearly any auto parts store and even walmart sells either the additive or the oil.
Then you can run whatever you want.
Even comps unwritten rule is to use break in oil on any of their cams or lifters.
Then you can run whatever you want.
Even comps unwritten rule is to use break in oil on any of their cams or lifters.
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Most places will recommend not using fulk synth for break in. You should instead use a break in oil or concentrated oil additive and conventional oil for the initial break in period. Break in oils are popular now and nearly any auto parts store and even walmart sells either the additive or the oil.
Then you can run whatever you want.
Even comps unwritten rule is to use break in oil on any of their cams or lifters.
Then you can run whatever you want.
Even comps unwritten rule is to use break in oil on any of their cams or lifters.