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Looks great! Congrats on getting it to the track and home in one piece. Ever get a chance to weigh it?
I've read you aren't supposed to have the flex sensors on the pressure side of the system. I don't understand how you'd avoid this and have it work correctly?
I run a surge tank in the trunk and had mine on the surge tank return to the main stock tank. So it made it made sense that it didn’t work well in my case. Having it on an actual return line "should" be the correct installation. Weird it wasn't working. I moved mine to the surge tank fill hose. So it’s relatively low pressure and gets a constant feed. Been great since.
Looks great! Congrats on getting it to the track and home in one piece. Ever get a chance to weigh it?
I've read you aren't supposed to have the flex sensors on the pressure side of the system. I don't understand how you'd avoid this and have it work correctly?
I run a surge tank in the trunk and had mine on the surge tank return to the main stock tank. So it made it made sense that it didn’t work well in my case. Having it on an actual return line "should" be the correct installation. Weird it wasn't working. I moved mine to the surge tank fill hose. So it’s relatively low pressure and gets a constant feed. Been great since.
Thanks..... I haven't weighed it yet.....
Everything I originally read was also saying to put the sensor in the return also, but mine defaulting to 0% when there was a high fuel demand..... So I started doing more research and came across some documented information that said these particular sensors could withstand 130-140 psi..... I also found one of the Subaru performance specialist was selling flex fuel conversion kits using the same sensor, they mounted it in the pressure side after the fuel rail and before the regulator..... They said it had to be mounted there because if you mounted it in the return line, it would have inaccurate reading due to lack of fuel in the return line under high demand circumstances(my exact problem)..... So I changed my lines around so it after the driver side rail before the regulator and it has worked flawlessly so far.....
I've read you aren't supposed to have the flex sensors on the pressure side of the system. I don't understand how you'd avoid this and have it work correctly?
...
Fuel system pressure is constant, everywhere in a given system.
Well, I decided to change the oil last weekend and when I did I found a bunch of very fine metallic in it..... I cut the filter and it was packed too..... After I thought about it for a while, the last couple passes I made I could hear the rockers a little at the other end after lifting..... It still has excellent oil pressure all around, so my first thought was rocker trunions..... I though I would be okay with the stock ones since they were new, guess I was wrong..... The cars got 390 miles on it and a total of 6 passes in the 1/8th, I pulled the rockers yesterday and they are going to ****.....
I put another filter on it and flushed the motor with my pressure tank, the oil filter was doing it job well because hardly anymore metallic came out of it..... I flushed it a second time and the oil was clear, big sigh.....
Frank where did you purchase the new trunions? First I've heard of them.
Price as well. Just wondering if full rollers are an option.
Also why the early failure? Is the oil temp too high due to the turbo heating it.
I've been watching this build. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for posting that Frank. You got me worried about mine, so I checked and found 4 bad ones. One of which wouldn't have made it too much longer.
No problem..... Seems if you upgrade valve spring you better upgrade trunions too.....
Originally Posted by stinkybutt
Frank where did you purchase the new trunions? First I've heard of them.
Price as well. Just wondering if full rollers are an option.
Also why the early failure? Is the oil temp too high due to the turbo heating it.
I've been watching this build. Thank you for sharing.
Aleck
Form the research I have done, it's the extra spring pressure when you change camshafts and springs that wears out the stock trunions..... Research ls rocker trunions and you will see this happens all the time..... I thought I would be ok for a while since mine were new, looks like I was wrong.....
Glad to see you didn't forget to upgrade. I know things get overlooked when working on the punch list.
Like I said earlier I thought I would be ok because mine were new..... I should have just done them from the get go..... Oh well, live and learn..... At least it looks like no major damage was done.....
I got the trunion upgrade done, it is definitely quieter even idling..... Now I have a new problem though..... I was checking everything over in the car and decided the change the rear end lube..... When I drained it the was a ton of metallic and not just fine stuff, I think I might be eating the true-trac unit..... I'll have to pull the center section and check it out.....
I got the trunion upgrade done, it is definitely quieter even idling..... Now I have a new problem though..... I was checking everything over in the car and decided the change the rear end lube..... When I drained it the was a ton of metallic and not just fine stuff, I think I might be eating the true-trac unit..... I'll have to pull the center section and check it out.....
Don't go there Frank that's what I've got in my car too!
FWIW I bought the Summit trunion kit and it looks identical to the Straub kit right down to the packaging.
Where did your source the “new” rockers from originally? Were they the GM parts? How aggressive is the camshaft? Reason I ask is I’ve always reused the factory rockers and never had an issue. Yet we recently put a “new” set in a buddies car and immediately had issues. Same with lifters. The one time I bought new lifters (claimed to be OE parts) I had issues with those as well. A lot of counterfeit parts floating around I’m told. Esp. the good deals on E-bay.
Don't go there Frank that's what I've got in my car too!
FWIW I bought the Summit trunion kit and it looks identical to the Straub kit right down to the packaging.
Yours is probably an 8.8 though, never had a problem with one in an 8.8..... My car has a 9" in it and everything is crammed in to just the ring gear side of the unit and is much more compact.....
They look the same, maybe they are.....
Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Where did your source the “new” rockers from originally? Were they the GM parts? How aggressive is the camshaft? Reason I ask is I’ve always reused the factory rockers and never had an issue. Yet we recently put a “new” set in a buddies car and immediately had issues. Same with lifters. The one time I bought new lifters (claimed to be OE parts) I had issues with those as well. A lot of counterfeit parts floating around I’m told. Esp. the good deals on E-bay.
Mine came in my 327 deluxe crate motor GM use to sell..... The camshaft is just a JFR triple 12 with the Isky 165a springs(basically the same as the pac1218's everybody uses).....
I got the rear end out and apart yesterday..... Completely disassembled everything, looks like the pinion support bearing was destroying itself which also was causing the pinion to start wearing..... I was lucky to get it apart at this point before any major damage was done..... I completely disassembled the tru-trac unit and there was absolutely nothing wrong with it, there are no thrust washers in it at all..... Everything in the unit is hardened and rides directly on other steel parts.....
Here's what everything was looking like when I leaft the shop yesterday.....
08-04-2017, 12:26 PM
