dawgs74

I have a 2002 lq4 that I wanna swap out the dishe'd pistons for ls2 pistons which requires a floating rod, can I simply swap out gen3 rods for gen 4 rods without any major headaches.......how do I see people getting away with junkyard scavenger hunt engine builds and getting miss matched engine internals throwing it all back together with absolutey no machine work done......and then make ridiculous power....


I'm hoping to do the same but I did have to go to the machine shop and go .030 over for $500,sound right? How much more should I expect to pay if I had him assemble the short block? I just hope I can run my gen 4 rods on my lq4 crank with no troubles....or harmonics

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

You can swap the rods. $500 for .03 over sounds crazy to me! I can never bring myself to do one of those slap it together builds. Balance and measure everything, but then again I do it for a living.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

The Gen IV rods will fit without any issues, but they are heavier and the 4.030" bore pistons will be heavier, so you will need to balance the crank.

dawgs74

Yea I planned on balancin the rotating assembly but not by the same machine shop.....that guy is getting no more of my money....500 for a .030. I wish I woulda known.....how much would you think it would run to have this assembly balanced. What should I be prepared to spend.....

dawgs74

what is reasonable price for a .030 over bore

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Balancing is probably going to be about $200, but $500 seems kind of steep. Honing up to .005" with a torque plate is usually less than $300. I don't know where the other $200+ comes from.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi 74, the cost of a bore + TPH with gasket placement (used) is $200.00 at the shop I use.

The COST of engine balance job is great when you ADD weight.

My method = Oversize pistons + .007" (hone only) that are forged AND lighter than the LS-2 pistons.

THUS cost is equal when you consider the cost to balance.

POST the weight of the OLD piston/rings/pin/rod ?
POST the weight of the NEW piston/rings/pin/rod ?

We ALL here can state the BW change AND if Mallory is needed.

There is a good chance, if weights are known, that the piston/pin weight specification could be less than OEM AND total BW be lower/EQUAL with the GEN-IV rod included.

Lance

dawgs74

Yea he really didn't know how much he wanted to rip me off....so he calls it a block prep ...I guess.... I brought him the block with the crank still in it. ...that's it ......the gen 4 rods i ordered are still in the mail......so he said he was gonna bore it and replace cam bearings he did mention a torque plate and he seemed butt hurt because I didn't want him to do the shortblock just bore and prep it........I think when he seen me pull up in my nice lifted black lmm gmc duramax that he thought I was gonna just throw money his way... long story short I just want .030 over ,new cam bearings and verify my crank is good ......which it is.....if he say otherwise I will be buying a new one from some else perhaps. ......so if you say around 200/300 too balance how much more would you say to install that assembly into the block on the same visit........definitely not same shop...any info on how I post pics

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Well it should be obvious that the more you ask him to do, the more he will charge. Disassembly (since the crank is still in it), replacing the cam bearings, inspecting the crank, etc...that can add up pretty easily. That $500 quote seems more reasonable now.

dawgs74

Yea I'm not to discouraged by the 500 but with that being said how much more should I expect him to say if I were to pull the trigger and have him assemble the shortblock. .......can anyone tell me how I can post pics......thx in advance

pdxmotorhead

Did the crank inspection include magna flux or X-ray or ultrasound?

The guy I work with charges 800 for balance on the bottom end + long block assembly.
I was about 1100 in for B&B , assembly, mild head work, and a dial-in cam install.

He's a friend and I get a lot of side benefit by working with him so it may not represent the cost others pay..

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

remove crank, clean, and inspect could easily be $100
R & R cam bearings/plugs is usually $75-100 w/final hot tank wash
Bore/Hone w/plates is often $250
Parallel deck block w/BHJ fixture is $175-$200 range
plenty shops gets between 3 and 500 for short block depending if file fitting rings and cam degreeing
a five hundred verbal (range) off the bat is not at all unreasonable IMO

KCS

iTrader: (20)

How To Upload Pictures

dawgs74

that 500 verbal quote was just for block prep...bore.cam bearings crank inspection. ..nothing installed...no cam yet...I just want shortblock rotating assembly installed. How much more on top of my 500 should I expect him to say....to install rods pistons crank....and cam bearings, no crazy file fit rings this is n/a build ......I just want a reliable semi mild motor to replace cammed 5.3 when it goes boom or when I want more power..... so when you said 3to 500 is that assembled with macHine work done....or is that for prep.

dawgs74

Cammed 5.3 22× duration. ...behind th350 with 3000 stall gotta wire and plumb it but then i stumbled upon a 6.0 shortblock
I just wanna put shortblock back together and keep it for back up when 5.3 goes
This was the built 355 out of the nova....nice motor just want modern. ...owned several silverados and loved them.....of course now my trucks are diesel but im trying to keep an ls base in all my other vehicles. ...tahoe has 5.3 nova has 5.3 ctsv has 6.2....now if i can shoe horn this 6.0 in my cls we would be great...

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

yes sir
300 hundred on the low side to put the crank rods and pistons in the engine
some shops charge 5-7 bucks to mount each piston onto the rod
500 if also file fitting ring gaps and degreeing the cam with T-chain/oil pump install

dawgs74

when I get the assembly balanced is when I will bring up installation with to the machine shop,if it's a couple dollars more I will do it. If it's more than say 500 I will probably install it myself ....I just don't need full build cause I haven't figured out me cam yet and what I'm limited too....ls2 flat tops .030 with ls3 style heads on a 64cc chamber....I don't wanna have to flycut my pistons so I know I'm limited on cam selection. ..I think my comp should be around 11:1/3 or so......anybody have any suggestions cam wise...or do I have to go radicalbecause of compression I can always alter head gasket thickness. ....?