Double check dot to dot..
03-26-2018, 07:23 AM
#4
Looks perfect. You're right on #1 & #6 TDC, at #6 firing. #1 is at the end of the exh stroke and start of int stroke. Which ultimately doesn't too much matter which instance of #1 TDC you're at because you don't have to stab a distributor.
Note also, the crank key is EXACTLY in line w the #1 rod throw (45° aka 1:30). When it points straight up the #1 cyl, it's at #1 TDC. A quick simple double-check.
Note also, the crank key is EXACTLY in line w the #1 rod throw (45° aka 1:30). When it points straight up the #1 cyl, it's at #1 TDC. A quick simple double-check.
03-26-2018, 11:42 AM
#6
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Split Overlap Measurement Hi Byrd, do as "spider" states., install a chain guide.
I NEVER TRUST "dots".
MY REASON is that I have often found errors with THIS method.
A MORE SIMPLE method is to check lifter travel on the "overlap" cylinder either #1 OR #6, the one with the TWO "proud" lifters.
That distance from the deck should be EQUAL.
Lance
I NEVER TRUST "dots".
MY REASON is that I have often found errors with THIS method.
A MORE SIMPLE method is to check lifter travel on the "overlap" cylinder either #1 OR #6, the one with the TWO "proud" lifters.
That distance from the deck should be EQUAL.
Lance
03-26-2018, 12:05 PM
#7
Launching!
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03-26-2018, 05:14 PM
#9
Launching!
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And of course they don’t seem to make the dampeners for the earlier blocks anymore. From what I’ve read the later ls2 dampeners have different spacing.
03-26-2018, 05:30 PM
#10
03-26-2018, 05:57 PM
#11
Launching!
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03-26-2018, 06:26 PM
#13
Launching!
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03-29-2018, 06:53 PM
#16
The damper really just keeps the chain from whipping around at speed. Not like some other kinds of motors (N* is a good example, as well as some of the Frod ones) where the chain is "guided" in some other direction from where it would want to lie on its own.
The RDE definitely is off center on the stock bolt holes. The stock damper is asymmetric wrt the holes, the RDE is symmetric.
The RDE definitely is off center on the stock bolt holes. The stock damper is asymmetric wrt the holes, the RDE is symmetric.
03-29-2018, 07:03 PM
#17
Launching!
Thread Starter
The damper really just keeps the chain from whipping around at speed. Not like some other kinds of motors (N* is a good example, as well as some of the Frod ones) where the chain is "guided" in some other direction from where it would want to lie on its own.
The RDE definitely is off center on the stock bolt holes. The stock damper is asymmetric wrt the holes, the RDE is symmetric.
The RDE definitely is off center on the stock bolt holes. The stock damper is asymmetric wrt the holes, the RDE is symmetric.
03-30-2018, 09:57 AM
#18
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Split Overlap Measurement Hi ALL, as we see the OP was helped by the Chain Guide "tech", good work to ALL.
MY QUESTION is WHY the original request, the "dot/dot" DOUBLE CHECK was NEVER addressed ?
THIS thread is great, the subject, to request a SIMPLE way to perform a Dot/Dot verification.
Would there by something I am missing ?
Lance
MY QUESTION is WHY the original request, the "dot/dot" DOUBLE CHECK was NEVER addressed ?
THIS thread is great, the subject, to request a SIMPLE way to perform a Dot/Dot verification.
Would there by something I am missing ?
Lance
03-31-2018, 06:50 AM
#19
Hi Byrd, do as "spider" states., install a chain guide.
I NEVER TRUST "dots".
MY REASON is that I have often found errors with THIS method.
A MORE SIMPLE method is to check lifter travel on the "overlap" cylinder either #1 OR #6, the one with the TWO "proud" lifters.
That distance from the deck should be EQUAL.
Lance
I NEVER TRUST "dots".
MY REASON is that I have often found errors with THIS method.
A MORE SIMPLE method is to check lifter travel on the "overlap" cylinder either #1 OR #6, the one with the TWO "proud" lifters.
That distance from the deck should be EQUAL.
Lance
03-31-2018, 09:58 AM
#20
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P/V Tech at Overlap Hi 351, I will state another VERY COMMON asked question here at LS-1 Tech as the example.
The Piston/Valve distance question is common : "is it safe" to run this camshaft ?
The cylinders are numbered with the piston position of #1 AND #6 being at TDC BOTH at the SAME TIME.
THUS one cylinder will be FIRING (compression) AND the other cylinder will have the inlet/exhaust valves "off the seat" OVERLAP.
This IS were the P/V distance is of CONCERN !
The Valve Lift is caused by the Camshaft Lobe Lift, an item that can be measured AT THE LIFTER.
The "proud" statement is ABOUT that distance "out" of the lifter bore with EASY MEASUREMENT from the crankcase deck/lifter plunger.
I measure with a Dial Indicator Gauge standing on the block deck with the shaft of the indicator placed at the lifter push rod register.
I believe you question is VERY VALID, thanks.
SO now, how did I do ?
Lance
The Piston/Valve distance question is common : "is it safe" to run this camshaft ?
The cylinders are numbered with the piston position of #1 AND #6 being at TDC BOTH at the SAME TIME.
THUS one cylinder will be FIRING (compression) AND the other cylinder will have the inlet/exhaust valves "off the seat" OVERLAP.
This IS were the P/V distance is of CONCERN !
The Valve Lift is caused by the Camshaft Lobe Lift, an item that can be measured AT THE LIFTER.
The "proud" statement is ABOUT that distance "out" of the lifter bore with EASY MEASUREMENT from the crankcase deck/lifter plunger.
I measure with a Dial Indicator Gauge standing on the block deck with the shaft of the indicator placed at the lifter push rod register.
I believe you question is VERY VALID, thanks.
SO now, how did I do ?
Lance