Help me waste my tax return
#1
Help me waste my tax return
With tax season in full swing I'm getting ready to do something I've been waiting all too long to do. I'm finally ready to install a full Autometer cluster into my 99 ss. I'm honestly just tired of the performance and function, or lack-thereof, of the factory cluster, and the cheap look of it as well. I plan on running a speedo/tach/fuel level/oil pressure/ and volt gauge in the cluster, with the addition of oil temp/water temp/and boost gauge on the pillar. The goal is for it to come out clean but functional. The majority of my inspiration is coming from these 2 setups. The first coming from an old feature car out of GMHTP and another I just happened upon through searching through the forums.
I'm leaning slightly toward the GMHTP setup as I like the forward slope the gauges have more so than the straight-up, in your face, look from the other one. I pulled my bezel out to start looking at potential mounting points for the bracket and I just couldn't see how 2, 5" gauges were going to fit within the bezel. I brought it inside and started a rough mock-up with cardboard and from what I tell 5" gauges are going to be a stretch. It appears that, using the current plastic gauge cover as a point where ill have my new face lie, all I'll be able to fit in there are the 3 3/8" gauges.It just has me puzzled because I can almost guarantee that the gauges in the uppermost picture are indeed 5". I believe autometer only offers tach memory in a 5" size, so it isn't making much sense.
So far, 5" gauges don't appear to be feasible, but I might just be overlooking something stupid. In addition to the gauges in the cluster I plan on adding in some of the factory indicator lights, mostly for inspection purposes. These will include turn signals, highbeam/headlight, air bag, parking brake, low oil, and check engine light. And in the interest of making it all egress/digress friendly it will be wired up individually. Each gauge will be wired to its own 3/4/5 pin male connector. The female ends of these connectors will then all meet with a male 40 pin connector. The female of this 40 pin will then trail off either directly wired to the harness or will have wires with lugs that will go to distribution blocks (light dimmer/ fused ignition power/ grounds). This way the entire cluster is not only removable with a single connector, but can also be split down even further with the ability to remove single gauges from the cluster at a time.
This is acting half as a question thread and half as a build thread so feel free to ask questions or offer advise on the setup. I already have my preliminary wiring run in the car so now its just up to making a gauge bezel, mounting everything up, and running the speedo on a sine wave generator for a month or so to get the tach up to my current reading. Anyone that's built a similar setup feel free to chime in.
I'm leaning slightly toward the GMHTP setup as I like the forward slope the gauges have more so than the straight-up, in your face, look from the other one. I pulled my bezel out to start looking at potential mounting points for the bracket and I just couldn't see how 2, 5" gauges were going to fit within the bezel. I brought it inside and started a rough mock-up with cardboard and from what I tell 5" gauges are going to be a stretch. It appears that, using the current plastic gauge cover as a point where ill have my new face lie, all I'll be able to fit in there are the 3 3/8" gauges.It just has me puzzled because I can almost guarantee that the gauges in the uppermost picture are indeed 5". I believe autometer only offers tach memory in a 5" size, so it isn't making much sense.
So far, 5" gauges don't appear to be feasible, but I might just be overlooking something stupid. In addition to the gauges in the cluster I plan on adding in some of the factory indicator lights, mostly for inspection purposes. These will include turn signals, highbeam/headlight, air bag, parking brake, low oil, and check engine light. And in the interest of making it all egress/digress friendly it will be wired up individually. Each gauge will be wired to its own 3/4/5 pin male connector. The female ends of these connectors will then all meet with a male 40 pin connector. The female of this 40 pin will then trail off either directly wired to the harness or will have wires with lugs that will go to distribution blocks (light dimmer/ fused ignition power/ grounds). This way the entire cluster is not only removable with a single connector, but can also be split down even further with the ability to remove single gauges from the cluster at a time.
This is acting half as a question thread and half as a build thread so feel free to ask questions or offer advise on the setup. I already have my preliminary wiring run in the car so now its just up to making a gauge bezel, mounting everything up, and running the speedo on a sine wave generator for a month or so to get the tach up to my current reading. Anyone that's built a similar setup feel free to chime in.
#3
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
I didnt use the OE wiring when i did mine since I had a stand alone harness with signal wires, but I did the bulk connector to make it removable.
one thing to be mindful of is gauge depth, I had to do some trimming behind the dash to make my setup work, but I retained the glass over mine so it may not matter on yours.
Ive had a few talks with LT4vert about redoing mine honestly i want to do two large Oled screens and a center Tach/Speedo. Have everything else split on the screens
one thing to be mindful of is gauge depth, I had to do some trimming behind the dash to make my setup work, but I retained the glass over mine so it may not matter on yours.
Ive had a few talks with LT4vert about redoing mine honestly i want to do two large Oled screens and a center Tach/Speedo. Have everything else split on the screens
#7
Alright so while I wait for my return to direct deposit I figured that I might as well start buying up the cheaper portions of the build. It took my a little while to find ones that I would like, but I decided to use these lights for my dash lights. The only complaint some people had was saying that they could physically see the LED behind the cutout of the lights, I am going to solve this by taking apart the lights as slightly sanding the inner face so it creates a clouded image. They should be to my door in the next week or so, so ill be able to comment on the actual quality of the lights. Overall it was about $35 for all the lights, a little on the steep side, but I think it'll turn out killer when its done. I will have 2 turn signals, high beam, parking brake, engine oil, chekc engine, trunk light, and air bag.
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#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Alright so while I wait for my return to direct deposit I figured that I might as well start buying up the cheaper portions of the build. It took my a little while to find ones that I would like, but I decided to use these lights for my dash lights. The only complaint some people had was saying that they could physically see the LED behind the cutout of the lights, I am going to solve this by taking apart the lights as slightly sanding the inner face so it creates a clouded image. They should be to my door in the next week or so, so ill be able to comment on the actual quality of the lights. Overall it was about $35 for all the lights, a little on the steep side, but I think it'll turn out killer when its done. I will have 2 turn signals, high beam, parking brake, engine oil, chekc engine, trunk light, and air bag.
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Alright so while I wait for my return to direct deposit I figured that I might as well start buying up the cheaper portions of the build. It took my a little while to find ones that I would like, but I decided to use these lights for my dash lights. The only complaint some people had was saying that they could physically see the LED behind the cutout of the lights, I am going to solve this by taking apart the lights as slightly sanding the inner face so it creates a clouded image. They should be to my door in the next week or so, so ill be able to comment on the actual quality of the lights. Overall it was about $35 for all the lights, a little on the steep side, but I think it'll turn out killer when its done. I will have 2 turn signals, high beam, parking brake, engine oil, chekc engine, trunk light, and air bag.
can you PM me a link where you found these?
#11
#13
Just got some of the lights in today and mocked them up where they might end up going. The quality of these lights is actually not terrible for the price. They are metal housings with a plastic light threaded into them. They come with about 7" of wire and seem to light well. They had to ship with 2 packages for some reason so I have 3 more lights coming in the mail. I rigged up an iPhone charger and an old micro usb cord to test them all, they led is slightly noticeable but I don't think I'm even going to modify them at all unless they are annoying in the car. Here's a few pictures to get the idea across
Last edited by GtoProject; 04-13-2018 at 07:34 AM.
#15
Last edited by GtoProject; 04-13-2018 at 07:16 AM.
#16
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
I effing love that table!
gauge layout looks good two! I sometimes wish I had brought mine closer (part of the reason im redoing it sometime) but what I want to do will eliminant the constraints of the opening of the bezel forcing the guage size. i want a floating pod that rests in the bezel but appears un attached on the face of it.
gauge layout looks good two! I sometimes wish I had brought mine closer (part of the reason im redoing it sometime) but what I want to do will eliminant the constraints of the opening of the bezel forcing the guage size. i want a floating pod that rests in the bezel but appears un attached on the face of it.