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Old 04-12-2018, 10:32 AM
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Default Oil Question

Hey guys, been off of here for a long time, had to create a new account, happy to have come back.

Quick question for you guys. Curious what you're running for oil in your LS1's these days. I'm running the 0W-40 in my Viper, but curious what the LS1 community has been using and info.

Thanks!
Old 04-12-2018, 10:45 AM
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Default Oil Question for my 30th TA

Hey guys, been off of here for a long time, had to create a new account, happy to have come back.

Quick question for you guys. Curious what you're running for oil in your LS1's these days. I'm running the 0W-40 in my Viper, but curious what the LS1 community has been using and info.

Thanks!
Old 04-12-2018, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryan30thTA
Hey guys, been off of here for a long time, had to create a new account, happy to have come back.

Quick question for you guys. Curious what you're running for oil in your LS1's these days. I'm running the 0W-40 in my Viper, but curious what the LS1 community has been using and info.

Thanks!
Congrats on the Viper.

Use the factory recommended oil weight, it's spec'd out for the factory clearances in the motor (bearing clearances, lifter oiling holes...). I always did 5w-30 and on occasion I ran 5w-20 if they were out of 30.

After Pennzoil reformulated in the late 00's and several people reported great feedback from independent testing, I have used their oil more than any other. I used it for several years in my 2004 GMC Sierra 5.3 and I pulled the valve covers to do new gaskets at 190k. Pic below.

There were a few times I used Mobil 1 or Castrol in the truck but a vast majority of oil changes were Pennzoil Platinum. I got the truck with 80k miles and the pic below is at 190k. Most of my oil changes were done with 7-8k miles or so on the oil too (as much as I hate to admit it, I just followed the oil change percentage, that's the reason for the high mileage).


Oil pressure, lifters, noises etc were flawless on that motor at 192k or so when I sold the truck.




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Old 04-12-2018, 11:51 AM
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Why make 3 threads about this?

I responded to one of them..
Old 04-12-2018, 12:21 PM
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Awesome, thank you for the info!!
Old 04-12-2018, 12:23 PM
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I wasn't getting much feedback. Some people only check certain area's of the Forums and wanted to get as much feedback as possible.

Appreciate your input!
Old 04-12-2018, 12:42 PM
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I have been running Mobil1 5w-30 in my LS engines and they have been perfect on it. 5000-7500 mile intervals depending on how it was being driven. Lots of highway use = longer intervals for me. I always buy a premium filter too and not just the cheapest one available. I like the Mobil1 filters and the Napa Gold filters.
Old 04-12-2018, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by morepwr
I have been running Mobil1 5w-30 in my LS engines and they have been perfect on it. 5000-7500 mile intervals depending on how it was being driven. Lots of highway use = longer intervals for me. I always buy a premium filter too and not just the cheapest one available. I like the Mobil1 filters and the Napa Gold filters.
Thank you! I use Mobil 1 in everything I have currently and good to know that has been working out for you. I usually always change 3,000mi religiously, but takes longer to get there since I don't put many miles on it. Thanks again!
Old 04-12-2018, 01:05 PM
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In a 2016 test the top 3 5w30's were Mobil1 advanced full syn, Pennzoil Ultra, Quaker State ultimate durability based on psi/shear. A very not so far behind and typically a lot cheaper is Valvoline max life rated 108k psi and ranked 12th overall in said test. Mobil1 was 117k psi and ranked 3rd overall behind a 0-20 and 5-20 from Quaker state for reference. I personally run amsoil 5-50 in mine and have for over a year in this car just so that it doesnt break down in the summer heat at the track.
Old 04-13-2018, 02:25 AM
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I've been using M1 0W40 in all my LS1s since about ~2004. No complaints at all.

Stock LS1s seem to show good wear results with oils on the "thicker" side of a w30 or the "thinner" side of a w40; M1 0W40 falls in the latter group.
Old 04-20-2018, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jenson
In a 2016 test the top 3 5w30's were Mobil1 advanced full syn, Pennzoil Ultra, Quaker State ultimate durability based on psi/shear. A very not so far behind and typically a lot cheaper is Valvoline max life rated 108k psi and ranked 12th overall in said test. Mobil1 was 117k psi and ranked 3rd overall behind a 0-20 and 5-20 from Quaker state for reference. I personally run amsoil 5-50 in mine and have for over a year in this car just so that it doesnt break down in the summer heat at the track.
The testing you quote above (540RAT) has very little to with an operating engine...other than possibly the cam lobe interface to the valves....and in particular flat tappet cams in racing or circle track operation. That testing was basically another version of the "one arm bandit." It's value to the longevity of an operating engine is questionable. Bitog has evaluated that data at length in incredible detail. The 540RAT testing also sports numerous contradictions within its own results. You're much better off going with manufacturer approvals where actual engine testing was done under stressful conditions. Of course there's no harm in choosing an oil that ranks high on the RAT list. I'll just mention that several years back Mobil 1 0w-40 and Castrol 0w-40 Edge tested in the bottom half of that list. Then upon the reformulation of Mobil 1 to 0w-40 FS, it soared to the top. Go figure. Same comments where now 0/5w-20 and 5w-30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability rank much higher than Pennzoil Plat or Pennz Ultra. Go figure. If you can't review that list of approx 160 oils and come up with 2 dozen contradictions, you're not trying. Look at the older 2013 list vs newer ones. More contradictions. Even today, Castrol 0w-40 Edge with some of the strongest manufacturer approvals of ANY motor oil, tests out mediocre on 540RAT.

I've used the Mobil 1 5w-30 and 0w-40. I'd have no problems with any quality 5w-30, 10w-30, or 0w-30 either. For those in warmer climates and/or summertime, the higher grade oils probably make more sense. For those tracking their cars from time to time, or pushing them hard, especially in hot weather, should consider strong 30 grades or 40 grades (ie HTHS of 3.5-3.8).

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Old 04-23-2018, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Firebrian
The testing you quote above (540RAT) has very little to with an operating engine...other than possibly the cam lobe interface to the valves....and in particular flat tappet cams in racing or circle track operation. That testing was basically another version of the "one arm bandit." It's value to the longevity of an operating engine is questionable. Bitog has evaluated that data at length in incredible detail. The 540RAT testing also sports numerous contradictions within its own results. You're much better off going with manufacturer approvals where actual engine testing was done under stressful conditions. Of course there's no harm in choosing an oil that ranks high on the RAT list. I'll just mention that several years back Mobil 1 0w-40 and Castrol 0w-40 Edge tested in the bottom half of that list. Then upon the reformulation of Mobil 1 to 0w-40 FS, it soared to the top. Go figure. Same comments where now 0/5w-20 and 5w-30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability rank much higher than Pennzoil Plat or Pennz Ultra. Go figure. If you can't review that list of approx 160 oils and come up with 2 dozen contradictions, you're not trying. Look at the older 2013 list vs newer ones. More contradictions. Even today, Castrol 0w-40 Edge with some of the strongest manufacturer approvals of ANY motor oil, tests out mediocre on 540RAT.

I've used the Mobil 1 5w-30 and 0w-40. I'd have no problems with any quality 5w-30, 10w-30, or 0w-30 either. For those in warmer climates and/or summertime, the higher grade oils probably make more sense. For those tracking their cars from time to time, or pushing them hard, especially in hot weather, should consider strong 30 grades or 40 grades (ie HTHS of 3.5-3.8).
Interesting!! I found the list just because I wanted something with some zinc in it for my old CJ5 and it listed out the zinc and moly content along with the psi and some other bits. I typically run amsoil in all my stuff but the VR1 is so much cheaper and at autozone so I went with it.
Old 04-24-2018, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Jenson
Interesting!! I found the list just because I wanted something with some zinc in it for my old CJ5 and it listed out the zinc and moly content along with the psi and some other bits. I typically run amsoil in all my stuff but the VR1 is so much cheaper and at autozone so I went with it.
These days, not all ppm Zinc is created equal. There are multiple formats used in engine oils, some more efficient than others. And some manufacturers are replacing Zinc with other friction modifiers that won't even show up on the engine oil analysis. A UOA is not as valuable as it used to be without more expensive testing that is beyond the typical hobbyist's reach.
Old 04-25-2018, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Firebrian
These days, not all ppm Zinc is created equal. There are multiple formats used in engine oils, some more efficient than others. And some manufacturers are replacing Zinc with other friction modifiers that won't even show up on the engine oil analysis. A UOA is not as valuable as it used to be without more expensive testing that is beyond the typical hobbyist's reach.
Ive heard that before and is why I like to stick with amsoil in everything else. Biggest thing with amsoil too is the 25k OCI, at least until Mobil dropped this yearly OCI stuff. Currently testing that in my wifes JKU, but its not a very good test cuz its a jeep and it leaks, so I have to add oil all the time. The ole cheap VR1 is perfect for the little 304 in the CJ5 though.
Old 04-25-2018, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jenson
The ole cheap VR1 is perfect for the little 304 in the CJ5 though.
Something that I've noticed about VR1 is that its pricing jumps all over the place (at least for the 10w30 grade). I started using this oil in the old flat tappet SBC in my '71 back in 2008. The price seems to change every 6-12 months or sooner, and the swing is always much greater than other conventional oils. I was able to get it for as cheap as $5.32/quart in early 2017, but in early 2018 it had jumped to $7.15/quart. Now, just a couple months later, it's back down to $6.15-6.33.

Stores in my area don't tend to carry the 10w30 (VV205/822388) on the shelf. One local O'Reilly used to special order it for me, but they declined to do this starting a few years ago. I think there is a NAPA or two that sometimes has it, but it can't be counted on. Online is my best option now.
Old 04-26-2018, 06:38 AM
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If I have to order VR1 I'll just switch to the Z-Rod stuff.
Old 04-26-2018, 07:27 AM
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Mobile One Synthetic and a K&N Filter.
Old 04-30-2018, 03:31 PM
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Default Thank You!

Since my Viper takes 0W-40, I am leaning towards putting this in my Trans Am. Awesome deal of 5qts of Mobile 1 0W-40 for $22.88, can't go wrong.

Another question, what do you all prefer to use for an Oil Filter(AC Delco, K&N, Mobile 1) and part number would help!

Thanks again!
Old 04-30-2018, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan30thTA
Another question, what do you all prefer to use for an Oil Filter(AC Delco, K&N, Mobile 1) and part number would help!

Thanks again!
Many years ago I used to use the ACDelco UPF44 filters, but these were discontinued (though I think they came back for a time, but I never went back to them). For the last ~15 years or so, I've been using the M1-107 filters. Some folks use the longer version (perhaps a 206?), but I never have.
Old 05-01-2018, 06:19 AM
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Whatever synthetic that's on sale.



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