any diagrams out there for this setup: Msd 6a, Msd 3 step retard (8970), msd window switch (8956), NX bottle heater, zex dry box, zex purge?

 

I know it's asking alot, but you guys seem to be pretty damn good with this wiring stuff.

How about mixing that FJO diagram in a dual stage with the transbrake/linelock diagram that I was just asking about. I've got both in front of me, and I'm trying to figure where that red/white off the FJO is going to go

 

The red/white wire goes to your throttle position switch or your nitrous activation switch.

 

that's right, i was just a little slow on the typing. i mean that small red wire for the trigger switch of the transbrake

 

Here's another wiring diagram and quote from the famous and handsome (I guess), NX Ricky.



[QUOTE NX Ricky]The idea behind this is when you push/lock in the trans brake, and release your foot brake waiting to launch the car settles. You can see at the track some cars tires move a smedge and the car seems to relax. What that is, everthing from the transmission rearward touching parts have become NONtouching. Like your ring gear, etc.

So you release the brake and now all those non-touching parts slam into each other.
With this wiring in place when you push the transbrake your linelock and front brakes will stay applied. Keeping the car stage, ready for launch. I know it saved my gears from breaking, cheap old street gears.

Anyway thought I would just throw it out there.
Warrning!!! If the diode fails your line lock could activate the transbrake choose the diode appropiate for the amp draw you would to control.[/QUOTE]

Robert

 

Thanks Robert. I had just made a post about that in which Ricky responded with that diagram as well as another one.

I'm just a little slow with this stuff, so I'm trying to figure out where the small red wire that is the "trigger" for the transbrake, where that wire gets tossed into the mix with that linelock/transbrake setup.

 

It ties into the activation button for the transbrake. Basically if the transbrake gets activated by pushing the button then the trigger switch gets activated also, causing the nitrous activation to be shut down temporarily until the button is released.
Here's the link to the diagram. Scroll all the way down to the bottom and there is an illustration for your setup. http://www.fjoracing.com/products/2s...%20rev%20G.pdf

 

i guess my question, now that i figured how to word it properly, would be this:

for the trigger wire, how would it be wired in?

A) do you have one wire from the TB solenoid to a ground, then the other wire go to the trigger switch of the FJO box and it's getting power from the power supply wire of the box?

B) do you have the one wire from the TB solenoid to the power source, then the other wire to the trigger input of the FJ box and it's getting the ground through the ground of the box?

C) you splice together the wire from the FJO box, and if so WHICH wire?

if it's the power source, wouldn't that mean that the box is getting the power no matter if the solenoid was activated or not?

 

heres a simple quick link to a TNT F1 wiring, i had trouble finding out what wire went to what terminal on the relay, http://www.nitrous-power.com/instruction.htm

 

Trick Window SW Wirirng


Robert

 

IIRC, yes they wire up the same. Check out the other wiring dia for the dig (remember other dia may have FPSS in a diff spot).
Robert

 

Posted by mrr23 straight from Trick.

Robert

 

For the LT1/SBC
Basic nitrous kit with Mallory 685 Ignition Box and FPSS

 

Single Stage with FJO controller and Mallory 685 ignition (pulling timing)

 

Act: Activation power for noids in
SG: From Solenoid Ground (one pair noids)
SG: From Solenoid Ground (one pair noids)
(can do four large noids)
BG: To Body Ground
12v: Arm switch keyed 12v supply for unit

Pic thanks to Scapaldo.



Robert

 

Here's the dual stage dry set-up using the 5177. This is exactly the way I had my 5177 set-up. Note in this shematic it's using a MSD WS and a MSD RPM activation sw, I ran it this way with the first gear lock out I posted earlier for second stage.

Robert

 

nos progressive controller thru a timing tuner

 

Robert,

I am looking at this diagram and wondering why the Trick window switch shows a blue wire going to the TPS or WOT switch and then the WOT switch pictured is not connected to that wire at all? The WOT switch instead shows one wire going to The Acc terminal on the arming switch and the other wire going to #86 on the relay. I am kind of a newb when it comes to wiring so I'm sure you have a good reason, I am just trying to learn how to get my setup to work. Thanks.

 

Good thing to point out. here's my take. The actual wot sw is wired into the low amp activation side of the relay, as per normal. The referal to TPS or W.O.T. sw is actually one in the same-the TPS. So you can run it one way or the other ie: tps activation, or WOT sw activation. I don't have my copy of the directions handy, but believe this to be correct info, maybe someone else would/could colaberate? I have set one up using the wot sw as above, and just capped off the tps wire, IIRC.
Robert

 

Yes, there is one here somewhere IIRC, many of us have used.
Robert