lets talk big nitrous 5.3/6.0
02-29-2016, 05:03 PM
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lets talk big nitrous 5.3/6.0 It seems like there are people out there with stock 5.3/6.0s pushing a 200 shot with a progressive controller and having pretty good luck at keeping things together for a long time then there are people with built 5.3/6.0s with 4340 forged cranks forged h beam rods and forged pistons only pushing a 250 shot the most I have seen myself is like a 350 shot I understand nitous puts allot of stress on a engine but with a progressive controller a forged crank rods and pistons I would thank you could push a heck of allot after all there are turbo 5.3/6.0s making 1000/1300 at the tire I understand a turbo slowly puts all the stress on a engine but a progressive controller would do the same so my question is why are people not pushing there built engines harder a 400 shot of nos on a built ls engine seams like nuthing if it's built right and you have a good progressive controller and if anyone is pushing there engines this hard give me some info on your car if you don't mind thanks
03-01-2016, 03:18 PM
#2
It really depends on what you're wanting out of the setup... A heads/cam 5.3-6.0 will make less power than a forged 5.3-6.0 combo...
H/C 5.3-6.0 + N20 might get you 650-700rwhp depending on how aggressive the setup/ shot is.
VS.
Forged 5.3-6.0 should make anywhere from 500-650rwhp depending on how aggressive you go with the combo then adding 200-250hp to that you'd be looking at 800+rwhp.
Most normal street guys don't need much more than that. Unless you're talking about grudge racing then we tend to put the boots to the setups here in Texas.
-Chris
H/C 5.3-6.0 + N20 might get you 650-700rwhp depending on how aggressive the setup/ shot is.
VS.
Forged 5.3-6.0 should make anywhere from 500-650rwhp depending on how aggressive you go with the combo then adding 200-250hp to that you'd be looking at 800+rwhp.
Most normal street guys don't need much more than that. Unless you're talking about grudge racing then we tend to put the boots to the setups here in Texas.
-Chris
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Bworley13 (03-15-2020)
03-01-2016, 05:10 PM
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Thanks for the reply I've always liked the idea of a forged 5.3 with it's 6 bolt mains thick thick cylender wall and great rod to stoke ratio it sounds like a great nitrous engine to take 800 progressive 😈😂😂 okay more like maybe 400 but sounds like a great engine
03-02-2016, 04:09 PM
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I put 250hp+ through my 6.0 stock bottom end that had 100,000 miles on it and I didn't take the bottom end apart, just cleaned it out best I could and cleaned the piston tops with oven cleaner. Normal **** heads/cam/intake.
Made my 3450lb car go 9.43@143 so it was making some powah'.
Not sure what your experience is with a progressive controller, but it won't save a motor. The longest I have ever progressed is .8 seconds, and I always work to bring it in faster with the goal of being able to turn it off completely.
It's not so much what happens at the front end of the track, it's what happens down track when the motor is making some heat in the chamber! guys don't burn pistons up at the starting line. Your tune up has to be good turbo or nitrous. They both make cylinder pressure and heat, just in different way. If the timing/AFR is wrong **** will break.
If you have a built motor, 400hp is a big shot.
I have a built motor and my concern is the piston Compression height.
If I upgrade the motor down the line it will get a small stroke crank 3.9" and a shorter rod to get a better piston with a larger CH for heavy nitrous use....or I may smarten up and just build a BBC.
Just my $0.02
Made my 3450lb car go 9.43@143 so it was making some powah'.
Not sure what your experience is with a progressive controller, but it won't save a motor. The longest I have ever progressed is .8 seconds, and I always work to bring it in faster with the goal of being able to turn it off completely.
It's not so much what happens at the front end of the track, it's what happens down track when the motor is making some heat in the chamber! guys don't burn pistons up at the starting line. Your tune up has to be good turbo or nitrous. They both make cylinder pressure and heat, just in different way. If the timing/AFR is wrong **** will break.
If you have a built motor, 400hp is a big shot.
I have a built motor and my concern is the piston Compression height.
If I upgrade the motor down the line it will get a small stroke crank 3.9" and a shorter rod to get a better piston with a larger CH for heavy nitrous use....or I may smarten up and just build a BBC.
Just my $0.02
that's the fun! 
03-22-2016, 08:21 AM
#13
I don't understand the OP's logic on Progressive controllers. I think a lot of people assume if you have a 200 tuneup in the car and leave on 50% you have 100 HP instead of 200HP when you have 200HP 50% of the time.
But to answer other ? it's ALL about the tune. I've sprayed 400 on a forged 408 with no issues.
But to answer other ? it's ALL about the tune. I've sprayed 400 on a forged 408 with no issues.
03-25-2016, 06:41 AM
#15
Mine is a built 414ci.... I too am running a 250 shot... LNC2000, Leash Electronics progressive controller, stand alone fuel cell.. Mine is set up for roll racing ( 1/2 mi racing) The nitrous hits hard and pulls like a ****... My bottom end is all forged.
11-20-2018, 09:30 PM
#16
I was told 175 shot max ?
how much could I safely put into the motor ? Or what should I upgrade to not worry about anything ?
11-21-2018, 06:16 AM
#18
11-21-2018, 10:28 AM
#19
TECH Senior Member
A stock bottom end LS1 is no stronger strength-wise than a stock bottom end 5.3.