SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Anyone ever had issues with trans seating to bellhousing? It's about 1/4" away but doesn't seat flat easily.
Could it be the spring tension on the TOB?

BALLSS

typically if you can't push/wiggle trans to bellhousing that last 1/4-1/2"...the disc is not aligned and the input shaft is hitting the pilot bearing edge. DO NOT try and pull the transmission in using the bolts. You need to drop tranny and re-align the disc

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Its a McLeod RXT twin disc. I got the spline through both discs and in the pilot. It stops there by pushing on it. I can get it to bounce off the bellhousing but pops back out. All the other ones I've done never had this issue. But it does easily snug up with the bolts. Just never had an issue like this before.

BALLSS

Using the plastic alignment tool you need to hold it "straight in" vs just letting the discs "hang" on it as you tighten PP enough to hold everything straight

Yeah the trans can be "snug up" using the bolts to draw it in but that method can take out a pilot bearing. The reason the trans does not go in all the way is because the input shaft is slightly catching the inner edge of the pilot bearing because the disc is "slightly" not centered or the up/down or L-R alignment of the tranny going in is not straight to the bell housing. Even looking through the splines after you pull alignment tool sometimes you can't "see" it is off some. Run your fingers all around the disc where it meets PP & FW...there should be = distance all the way around


If just the spring of the TO bearing was causing the resistance than pulling it in with bolts is ok...but generally you can just push the tranny in against any TO spring resistance if you have any

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Well doesn't really matter now. After getting the clutch back in and buttoned up, It's still doing what it did before.
Issue:
Wont go into gear easily while running
Wheels getting power while clutch pressed in and in gear
Set park brake, release clutch, wont stall engine, clutch just slips.

When I first installed clutch, hooked up good but was a little choppy getting into 3rd. As time went on, its began getting worse. So I sent trans back to Tick to have it looked at since it was under warranty. All good.
Checked clutch, seemed fine. Reinstalled trans. Continued getting worse.
Replaced TOB, checked over everything again, reverified measurements. All good.
Reinstalled, same issue but getting worse.
Nowthen last week pulled trans again. Come to find out outer disc was hitting straps to floater ring. Called McLeod....."Oh, we're sorry, that's an old design that had problems. We'll send you a new Gold ring."

Great, big difference between the two and no more contact.
Reinstalled today (for the 6th time)
and still having the issue. There is no signs of slippage on my flywheel at all. The floater ring and PP has hotspots now and I only let out the clutch 4 times to verify is was slipping.

So the problem is in the clutch assembly. Not the trans or my car.
We'll see what they Say Monday I guess.

BALLSS

assuming the clutch install is good the typical "disengagement" problem is either failing hydraulics or one that needs bleeding. MC is often the hydraulic issue.

Since you did replace TO/Slave bearing are you sure you did bleed all the air out?

IDK if the RST/RXT McLeod uses various shims for the floater plate stands like their Street Twin does but those need to be right. My Street Twin came assembled with all the shims installed. You just need to be careful on install to keep each stack where it went. Again IDK if their RST/RXT twins utilize shims though

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

No shims on this setup. It does have a sort of shim thats riveted on the floater ring.
I was thinking bad hydraulics too. It has a tick master and even changed out the TOB to be safe. Bled the hell out of it and even used a vacuum bleeder. I have the speedbleeder line as well.
But if hydraulics were going bad, both discs would shiw slippage. At least thats my thoughts.
The thing is, the old monster clutch, stg 2 single disc, was flawless. Now we have alot more power and wanted an lighter pedal. The more i drove it, the worse it got. Now i cant even move the car.

stevieturbo

So did you measure anything prior to install ?

Are you sure the clutch itself is installed correctly onto the flywheel ?

With a camera or other visual aid....can you see if both discs get released, or how the slave is working when you press the pedal ?

Does your pedal, master etc all have the correct amount of travel it should ?

BALLSS

IIRC McLeod advises using stock hydraulics for the RST/RXT clutch. If the Tick is a larger bore MC it would work but the engagement/release window I would think would be tighter.....unless the larger bore MC is causing over exstension.

Many people run the McLeod RXT twin without issue. Sounds like you have a disengagement issue, especially if the car creeps forward with car in gear and clutch depressed or the rear wheels turn with rear end jacked up. Assuming clutch is installed right, typically that means a hydraulic issue often MC if the hydraulics are in fact bleed completely

stevieturbo

larger master should only help the situation....assuming whoever installed it all actually has enough pedal travel.

Chances of over-extending the slave would be slim...it would take a lot to **** it up, and it would **** it up over time.

This clutch seems to be a new install and not working ?

Really it needs a visual and some measurements taken.

USB borescope type cameras are dirt cheap...get one in there somehow

BALLSS

FWIW this is what Billy @ McLeod replied to my email about a larger MC with the RST/RXT clutch back when I inquired.

The RST/RXT pressure plate is designed with the factory hydraulics stroke of .440” in mind, thus requiring factory master & slave to be used for proper operation

“As far as large bore master cylinder are concerned we recommend factory hydraulics both master and slave. The pressure plate was designed around the stroke of the factory master and slave combination. When you introduce large bore master cylinders such as our McLeod 13/16" or Tick 7/8" this makes the slave cylinder travel farther which can over center the pressure plate causing the discs to prematurely burn up.”

stevieturbo

Over pushing might stress the cover a little....but certainly short term I dont see how it would cause any harm to the discs at all

But you do not know how much travel you have, you do not know what is happening in there....you need a visual or some measurements of some sort

Guessing wont work

AMP-D

Do you have an LS3 with an after market crank shaft in it?

stevieturbo

With regards the above....there should be amost no tension, and the box should always slide in easy.

But also ensure the hydraulic line is attached, or the bleeder open so fluid can move to allow an extended bearing to retract back into the slave if that has maybe happened and isnt locked out hydraulically which could give a similar symptom to the above.

As could many other improper install aspects

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Yes
Yes
No. Didnt have my borescope with me. Shouldn't have to resort to that
Yes

stevieturbo

If the clutch is dragging as bad as you say, then one/both of the discs, the splines, etc is fucked if you are 100% correct with those Yes answers above.

Not impossible, but unlikely...

You need a proper as installed visual and measurement of slave travel. How much did yours have as you say you measured it ?

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Travel is disengagement and there is a slight issue there. The main issue is when i let up on the pedal with park brake on, it just slips. Doesnt even labor engine at all. So hydraulics would cause a release problem. Not a engage problem.

stevieturbo

Hydraulics operate the clutch.....so if incorrect they can cause issues with both. But there are several parts in that system...so any one could have an impact, or just poor fitment or adjustment somewhere if not using original parts.