Please advice Window and regulator swap on 4th gen TA

I want to swap a window and regulator into a empty door.



1.when you remove the regulator from the inside of door, the window must be detached correct, will the window slide up out of door? edit: I've sean videos where they take the reg. out w/ the window still inside door, seams undoable to me but I'm just a bolton Guy.

I do see some white plastic pieces they appear to attach to window.

2.Are these plastic pieces part of the window and attach/detach from regulator?



I’m thinking the window should first be detached from reg. then remove window up though door. Then slide out reg.



3.Should the regulator stay in one piece when unbolted from door then slide out the big hole in aft part of door?



I’m thinking reinstall reg. inside new door bolt it in then lower the window an then attach to reg.?



4. I don’t want to break the seals metal clips.is there a special tool to remove the clips ? or just push them off w/ a screw driver pushing inward w/ window down an also adjusted inward ?



over the years I’ve swapped in a new lock cylinder an connected door wiring also done a few window motor swaps but have never dune a regulator so thanks in advance for regulator advice.

When I search all I seam to come up w/ is window motor swaps.

 

here's a wrecked camaro w/out it's door skin. kindof fuzzy image. but shows the white plastic pieces which I think attach window to reg.



apparently these round plastic pieces are in fact attached to window though holes these are rollers that fit inside the reg. rails




whoopies this exploded view of roller is for a 1970-1981

mite be easier to leave the white plastic rollers an remove the regs. rails basicely dissassembling the reg. around the rollers?

OK here's the 4th gen window w/ rollors.


my ruined door that I'm reusing the reg. an window from I've just now decided to remove the door skin and take a good closeup look see and report back.
since I've never done a regulator or window I'll take my time don't wanta break or bend stuf.

this man is slick I'm slowly learning about the reg. at least this part of it. documenting for me an others who will sooner or later be in my situation.

 

the white pieces are part of the nut bolt that hold the window in

 

I've managed to separate window from reg. in ruined door then slide very carefully the window inside new door.

managed to slide the reg inside door an slide the 2 horizontal rollers inside windows rail.I left the short horizonal rail attached to window an bolted it to door.

I believe GM has designed the hook to aid in positioning the reg. prior to bolting to door. that's where I am right now.
1.what size revits hold reg?
2.how is the window seal removed/installed w/out breaking the clips?
3.in addition to transferring my key lock cylinder, will I have to transfer the electric lock actuator?
4.or is the key FOB just reprogramed to replacement doors actuator? thanks

 

I managed to get the positiong hook in correct hole. was just about to pop the 1/4" revit and noticed the tension spring came loose. I'll have to remove reg. I'm thinking this spring will need to have tension and locked somehow.

or can the spring be replaced w reg. inside door?

edit: I should ention that the door I'm assembeing is laying on floor it's not vertical.
maybe the spring wouldn't have fallen off if door was vertical?

 

dam I feel think I'm talking to myself here.
I think I figured it out when removing the reg the motor mount bracket moved thus spring lost all tension.

my reg in ruined door didn't have a motor so I didn't know spring was sprung.

so I'll remove reg. reinstall spring add the tension then hold the tension w/ the motor bolted to bracket.my spring had no tension a spring w/ tension I believe it wouldn't matter if door was vertical or horizontal on. reinsatall think I attach motor & bracket w/ revits.
hope this helps someone else. will report back when done.

 

I've read that it's best to just replace the whole unit with rails instead of just doing the motor.

 

that will plan C but I'm doing much more than a motor which includes window which requires reg. removal.
I'm also leary of buying new inferior parts made in a forieng country 1st letter of country is C.
my next plan B is remove reg. put tension on spring hold down w/ my foot and bolt on a motor to hold the tension.

I think I have a old motor that was real slow.

revit regs brakect in place this will continue to hold springs tension so I can then swap motor. see I have a almost new motor in the current door mounted on car.

 

You’re not alone here in this fight. I have been dealing with a window issue and still can’t get it right. Years ago I went to replace motors for like the 3rd time and after putting it all back together I noticed the window would rock side to side. It’s possible they were like this previously and I never noticed it. I assumed it was something I did while replacing motors again but after multiple attempts adjusting and lots of frustration I gave up and actually walked away from the car with this being one of the main reasons and it sat for 10 years until I recently began working on it again.

I know it’s not something I did and there is a further issue within that I haven’t determined the cause of yet. I might even have an old thread on this and I’m going to search for it after I finish this post. I purchased brand new NOS GM motors, then bought brand new NOS GM regulators that are assembled with new motors as well, all of this stuff is OEM and made in the USA. During my attempt to change out the regulators I had to walk away again. There’s a black plastic bushing that goes with the white bushing that was cracked and I suspect this is a big part of the problem.

I found replacements made by Winzer and asked my rep to get me 20 of them but never heard back from him. They are discontinued from GM and the part number is 20178799, the Winzer part number is 503.12004, maybe I will call them directly and see if that gets me anywhere. I even recently purchased two used color matching doors and guess what, they have the same damn problem. They were cheap enough and it gives me something to look at at least to help with re assembly.

I have the special rivets and gun to assemble all of this as well and will add that information to your thread when I’m back with the vehicle tomorrow. I know this is long winded but I’m extremely pissed at this situation, maybe we can help each other out.

 

Somebody needs to 3D print those. All of these plastic parts on our cars are deteriorating and even NOS replacements will fail in the same way.

 

Damn good idea, I didn’t think of that and they definitely could be made with better material.

 

These are the rivets needed and big daddy style rivet gun should you choose to go that route (someone mentioned using bolts).

 

my reg is still rusted even after the wire wheel teatment considering buying the new reg an motor. this could be a complete turd?https://www.partsgeek.com/6bkhzld-po...MlProqaCQCiPoE

the saying goe's you get what you pay for right. thats why I wanted to reuse my old GM stuff.

don't recall seeing that plastic part hang in there Buddy it's not rocket science I'll continue to post right now I'm on vacation at the beach. plan to get get back on the door beginning of next week.
my new door came w/ hinges. the current door I swapped on is a tad to far forward w/ orginal hinges.

I have been informed that to adjust the door aftward requires removing front bumper & fender to adjust door aftward it's only a 1/16"off . is this true or false?

maybe it mite be easier to continue w/ already installed hinges onto new door?
[QUOTE=gjohnsonws6;20487807]These are the rivets needed and big daddy style rivet gun should you choose to go that route (someone mentioned using bolts).I have a 24' aluminum pocket cruiser so I know revits dam those are some large headed reviots you post.



[/QUOTEI have a 24' aluiminum pocket cruiser so I know revits dam those are extra long headed revits I have 1/2 X 1/4 ]thanks Guys for surport

 

Those are the correct rivets for the application. 1/2” will be too short, regular rivets and mono bolts do not peel out and spread to prevent movement. The black plastic bushings are part of the rail to window mounting system and they are very much in there.

 

update managed to reattach the old slow motor to hold tension on the coil spring.
note the position of motor by the # of teeth on each side I have 7 exposed teeth on shorter end.
I would like to confirm this is the correct position before reviting.

the brakect keep dropping:
I used a small C-clamp as a third hand to hold reg. brakect in place also used a sockect to hold the positioning hook.
I have one 1/4"x 1/2" revit I think it'll be easier to get the longer revits compared to using bolts so I'll need to find a place that sells this size revit ¼” Dia 11/16 x ¾”.

window kept moving:
I used wooden wedges to hold window.

I have the motor bolted in undecided on using revits or reuse my bolts.I think GM used revits for both brakect & motor is for a secure tight hold, plus it was quicker to revit.

I got most of the rails lube on my hands very nasty lube, I believe this lube isn't just regular grease but a special grease just for plastic rollers on metal slides.

 

That's an absolute nightmare of a job to do. Had to do that on mine not fun.