Tommy42088

So I'm waiting for my truck to get out of the tune shop, still working a few bugs, but if I made 400 rwhp NA, and my tuner is telling me he has the truck seeing 15 pounds of boost. What kind of ball park number do you guys think I should be at? E85 fuel

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

it should roughly double at the crank.

Tommy42088

wow really? I was hoping to at least achieve close to 700 wrhp

gsteele

Math is hard.

Tommy42088

I was told calculator 7 percent so that's 28 and 28×15=420+400=820. Wasn't sure how accurate that is

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Math is really hard...LOL

Tommy42088

and the sky is blue, I don't expect you guys to know an answer bro. I'm just anxious to get my truck back on the road. It's been a few months and I was just wondering how my numbers may play out and what you guys opinions were on a guesstimate

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

At 15 psi you should roughly double the horsepower, regardless of how you were measuring it.

If it made "close to 400rwhp" NA, it'll make close to 800hp at 15psi...give or take.

Andrew

Tommy42088

to be exact it was 398 on the tires but thanks bro, much appreciated. I'll be content with that for a while. Plenty time to enjoy and build something bigger and better

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Why stop at 15 psi?
Its a 5.3 on E85, keep turning it up.
My 91 pump gas combo runs 14 psi with no meth or anything.

Tommy42088

My tuner said something about because I have an e39 computer and it's only capable of 540 hz or something like that. I didn't really understand what he meant but basically the way he put it is that my computer won't allow it to go up any higher.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Have him convert to speed density, calibrate a 3 bar MAP sensor and ditch the MAF.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

I wondered if it was a MAF setup, or just have it default to a given AFR when the MAF is maxxed out.
That's how my last car was, and it worked fine.

Tommy42088

it's still has a maf sensor, the kit showed it being left on so i left it but it's already on a 3 bar, it has the factory gm 3bar. It's the one that goes on the cts-v. This is the same truck I had posted about a few weeks ago that we were talking and you guess suggested a few parts for it.

Tommy42088

I would think he should know how to do what you guys are telling me, if he doesn't then maybe I need to search around for a different tuner

gametech

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like your guy knows what he is doing. All of the workarounds that we commonly use to keep a maxed out MAF or ditch it entirely are much better suited to someone who does their own tuning. I would strongly recommend getting your own tuning software even after your tuner finishes it up. This way you can decide later if you want to turn things up, and you can make changes to your system without having to pay a tuner every time. Also, the ability to datalog your combo is worth everything.

Tommy42088

yeh he has done a good job so far. I just figured if that was an option then he would do it. I've been thinking about it for a while but I bought the software I wouldn't even know where to begin. Sounds like big changes have to be made to turn it up or he would do it while he's tuning it. What makes you say it's more suited for someone who does there own tuning? Can you explain

gametech

iTrader: (1)

The time it takes to insure that everything is really done right would typically be cost prohibitive when paying someone for their time and expertise. This is not a huge deal for low power builds, but when you are talking nearing triple digit levels the tiniest overlooked parameter can easily destroy your motor. Going SD means that ANY hardware changes such as changing exhaust or intake will change fueling, whereas a MAF only reads airflow, so it does not care if you have more or less at a given MAP reading. If you are bandaiding a maxed out MAF, your tune is down to only being accurate at the one specific weather condition, altitude, and weight that it is tuned at. Once again, some inaccuracy is always going to be present, but your allowable amount drops drastically the more power you make. Also, you can tune for unknown variables that happen from time to time. I once got a tank of bad gas in a Whipple blown truck several hundred miles from home. The 93 octane tune was knocking like hell, and I could not exactly change blower pulleys. Luckily, I was able to pull timing from my tables and keep driving until better gas could be found.

Tommy42088

makes sense, I have no problem buying hp tuners and I would love to be able to turn up the boost. Honestly I just wouldn't know where to begin. It sucks having to pay a tuner also because I'm stuff with however he's tuned it and I can do most of the manual labor myself. The only thing I'm not comfortable with is transmission internal work. It seems ever few months I'm bringing the truck back to the tuner because I'm always making changes on the truck. Is this something I could possibly do myself if I did buy hp tuners and where would I begin? My goal with the truck is to go 10's while keeping it street legal. I've been 11s in the truck but that was on the nitrous setup, but I could adjust that myself because I could just change the jets and adjust timing through the lnc2000 and I was ok but with this turbo I wouldn't know where to begin to turn up.

Tommy42088

He said the manifold keeps burning the spark plug wires, so he's trying to figure that out b4 I pick it up