Projected horsepower
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From: Louisiana
Remove the problem plugs. Then get a map gas torch and a crowbar. Go to town on the area that needs more clearance. A ¼ gap all around is all that’s needed. Heat sleeves and wrap work great, but you still need a 1/4“ gap at minimum IMO. If the boot touchs the manifold, they will burn up. I’d assume tight 90’s pointing down are what you will need. That does look like a tricky manifold though!. You can also use a metal coat hangar fixed to the wire to ensure it goes where you need it and stays there.
Wouldn’t be able to tell anything from his tune files. It’s the mechanical timing between where the engine actually is VS where the ECU thinks it is. Would need a piston stop to find TDC. Mark the balancer. Then use an adjustable timing light to see where the time actually VS what the ECU is commanding. I’ve had motors be as much as 12* off. So when the ECU is commanding say 15* its actually at 3*. But since you are using the OEM ECU, thats likely not your issue. I’d try clearance first.
Wouldn’t be able to tell anything from his tune files. It’s the mechanical timing between where the engine actually is VS where the ECU thinks it is. Would need a piston stop to find TDC. Mark the balancer. Then use an adjustable timing light to see where the time actually VS what the ECU is commanding. I’ve had motors be as much as 12* off. So when the ECU is commanding say 15* its actually at 3*. But since you are using the OEM ECU, thats likely not your issue. I’d try clearance first.
Billet ICT makes coil brackets that are nice and neat. As well as a universal long wire kit. Id suggest mounting coils down by the frame rails and routing wires under. Also if its only 2 wires the cheap old school LT1 wire sets at the autoparts stores have some long leads. I've used those several times. Good luck! Don't give up! lol
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From: Louisiana
Billet ICT makes coil brackets that are nice and neat. As well as a universal long wire kit. Id suggest mounting coils down by the frame rails and routing wires under. Also if its only 2 wires the cheap old school LT1 wire sets at the autoparts stores have some long leads. I've used those several times. Good luck! Don't give up! lol
I can't open these files but Maybe you can, this is suppose to be the tune files. Man I went back and forth all morning and he swears its the manifolds, he said its only happening on number 7&4 and that if it had half an inch more that it would of probably been ok. He says the flanges are welded to close to the 90s. Everyone I've talked to tell me differently but I'm now stuck with a Truck I have to tow home and a 3000 dollar bill
The fact that both the drivers and passenger side are causing problems is a little suspicious. Is the plug clearance tight on the driver's side?
If the driver's side use a stock exhaust manifold, then the plugs wires should have plenty of clearance.
I can't view the tune, but I'm really curious what the timing was during the pulls.
Andrew
When I did my first turbo build I spent the next year finding all the little issues that come with it, pipe fitment problems, burnt wires, blown fuses, insufficient alternators, insufficient fans, etc.
Just keep chipping away at it and soon you'll have a fun, dependable turbo truck that you can enjoy.
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From: Louisiana
The manifold looks to be very tight. You might be well off to remote mount the passenger side coils and run the wires down below the pipes.
The fact that both the drivers and passenger side are causing problems is a little suspicious. Is the plug clearance tight on the driver's side?
If the driver's side use a stock exhaust manifold, then the plugs wires should have plenty of clearance.
I can't view the tune, but I'm really curious what the timing was during the pulls.
Andrew
The fact that both the drivers and passenger side are causing problems is a little suspicious. Is the plug clearance tight on the driver's side?
If the driver's side use a stock exhaust manifold, then the plugs wires should have plenty of clearance.
I can't view the tune, but I'm really curious what the timing was during the pulls.
Andrew
Drivers side design
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I did not go through the whole tune, but it is obviously a work in progress. There are minor things, such as the stoich ratios being slightly off for gas and ethanol, and the open loop PE ratio tables not exactly matching, among other issues that I would consider very minor. The one thing that stands out is that all your high load fueling is obviously coming from the MAF, as the VE table is certainly not correct in the boost areas. Your tuner may have been planning to correct this once the plug and wire situation was fixed, or he may have planned to leave it. As it is not a finished tune, I can't fault that. If it was a finished tune it would be a waste to have a 2bar sd operating system and MAP without properly using it. As for the burned plug wires, My first guess would be touching the headers and my next guess would be too close given the limited amount of airflow you normally get on a dyno. If it is really cracking the actual plugs, I have never seen that.
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From: Louisiana
I did not go through the whole tune, but it is obviously a work in progress. There are minor things, such as the stoich ratios being slightly off for gas and ethanol, and the open loop PE ratio tables not exactly matching, among other issues that I would consider very minor. The one thing that stands out is that all your high load fueling is obviously coming from the MAF, as the VE table is certainly not correct in the boost areas. Your tuner may have been planning to correct this once the plug and wire situation was fixed, or he may have planned to leave it. As it is not a finished tune, I can't fault that. If it was a finished tune it would be a waste to have a 2bar sd operating system and MAP without properly using it. As for the burned plug wires, My first guess would be touching the headers and my next guess would be too close given the limited amount of airflow you normally get on a dyno. If it is really cracking the actual plugs, I have never seen that.
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100 percent, I've always had modified cars since high school and never experienced a tuner/builder that couldnt make something work tho. Im going pull it home tonight and ill post some pictures of the plugs & wires and my progress moving forward as i fix if
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So I picked the truck up last night and when I did he took me outside and started the truck and show me this. He said number 4 is building lots of heat because the runners on the manifold are all touching and the heat is creating basically like a pocket of heat as it rises towards the plug and #7 its just very close to underneath the plug, that one I can heat up and bend and get it off of it but as far as running the wires under the manifold that's the possible on this passenger side as you see there's no where for the wire to go. He gave me a stock manifold and told me get one made and then bring it back to finish the tune. He said it is tuned on speed density and the maf is not being used but only for the temperature sensor. N then I definitely have to bring it back because the o2 sensors are turned off right now because it's going crazy on the dyno with what's happening.
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135 on #7 puts it pretty close to the face of the flange and then it starts burning the wires from the inside. I may just try to knock a small dent right there and put a ceramic boot on that wire. #4 is a difference story, the whole design on that side is ****
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I'm open to changing the manifolds but i would want something that has the turbo in the same location so I don't have to move everything. No, I have a 4l65, maybe I saying it wrong but I thought he said e39