Boost Valve replacement Cost on 4L60E
#2
TECH Enthusiast
Not too much, I'd imagine.
You drop the pan, then take the boost valve out with some snap ring pliers.
I've done it in less than an hour, and that's while stopping to drink beers along the way.
While you've got the pan off, there are some other things you should do.
Look up the "Ultimate Pan-drop upgrades" thread.
You drop the pan, then take the boost valve out with some snap ring pliers.
I've done it in less than an hour, and that's while stopping to drink beers along the way.
While you've got the pan off, there are some other things you should do.
Look up the "Ultimate Pan-drop upgrades" thread.
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OddJack (06-21-2024)
#3
Thanks Dixie,
So is there a kit you would recommend ? The filter and fluid are new already. I have installed the Fitzall TCC valve as well.
What I am trying to do is resolving this P1810 code that pops up Also surging at exactly over 68mph if you try to accelerate. It feels like the TCC is cycling. Car has been to two shops. Both said Transmission rebuild without confirming what the issue was.
P1810 is the pressure switch which is replace twice already.
What I am trying to do is getting more oil pressure.
So is there a kit you would recommend ? The filter and fluid are new already. I have installed the Fitzall TCC valve as well.
What I am trying to do is resolving this P1810 code that pops up Also surging at exactly over 68mph if you try to accelerate. It feels like the TCC is cycling. Car has been to two shops. Both said Transmission rebuild without confirming what the issue was.
P1810 is the pressure switch which is replace twice already.
What I am trying to do is getting more oil pressure.
#4
LS1Tech Sponsor
I would remove and clean screen in PCS . But reality none of this will fix that code, Likely you have a blown VB gasket allowing leak. Th switches take very little pressure to apply. But
1- Remove and clean screen in PCS and if you want a little more line turn screw in end clockwise 1/4 turn will moderately raise line across the board.
2- Put in o ringed .500 boost valve.
3-Add the little spring from my tech and mods 4l60e thread to the boost valve. (harbor freight)
4-Personally I would pull the VB and make sure gasket not blown out at manual valve, if you can get a bonded plate to replace in advance.
5-if remove VB placed o ringed end plug at end of converter regulator valve and 3-4 signal valve. Consider adding the same spring as boost valve in VB behind isolator valve..
ALSO check terminals in the switch plug, use a tiny pick is needed to tighten them.
My words of advice for whatever they are worth,
But again with the exception of VB gaskets (likely issue) none of this will solve your code.
1- Remove and clean screen in PCS and if you want a little more line turn screw in end clockwise 1/4 turn will moderately raise line across the board.
2- Put in o ringed .500 boost valve.
3-Add the little spring from my tech and mods 4l60e thread to the boost valve. (harbor freight)
4-Personally I would pull the VB and make sure gasket not blown out at manual valve, if you can get a bonded plate to replace in advance.
5-if remove VB placed o ringed end plug at end of converter regulator valve and 3-4 signal valve. Consider adding the same spring as boost valve in VB behind isolator valve..
ALSO check terminals in the switch plug, use a tiny pick is needed to tighten them.
My words of advice for whatever they are worth,
But again with the exception of VB gaskets (likely issue) none of this will solve your code.
#5
I would remove and clean screen in PCS . But reality none of this will fix that code, Likely you have a blown VB gasket allowing leak. Th switches take very little pressure to apply. But
1- Remove and clean screen in PCS and if you want a little more line turn screw in end clockwise 1/4 turn will moderately raise line across the board.
2- Put in o ringed .500 boost valve.
3-Add the little spring from my tech and mods 4l60e thread to the boost valve. (harbor freight)
4-Personally I would pull the VB and make sure gasket not blown out at manual valve, if you can get a bonded plate to replace in advance.
5-if remove VB placed o ringed end plug at end of converter regulator valve and 3-4 signal valve. Consider adding the same spring as boost valve in VB behind isolator valve..
ALSO check terminals in the switch plug, use a tiny pick is needed to tighten them.
My words of advice for whatever they are worth,
But again with the exception of VB gaskets (likely issue) none of this will solve your code.
1- Remove and clean screen in PCS and if you want a little more line turn screw in end clockwise 1/4 turn will moderately raise line across the board.
2- Put in o ringed .500 boost valve.
3-Add the little spring from my tech and mods 4l60e thread to the boost valve. (harbor freight)
4-Personally I would pull the VB and make sure gasket not blown out at manual valve, if you can get a bonded plate to replace in advance.
5-if remove VB placed o ringed end plug at end of converter regulator valve and 3-4 signal valve. Consider adding the same spring as boost valve in VB behind isolator valve..
ALSO check terminals in the switch plug, use a tiny pick is needed to tighten them.
My words of advice for whatever they are worth,
But again with the exception of VB gaskets (likely issue) none of this will solve your code.
Thanks Franks,
Is .5 boost valve same as Sonnax Boost valve and spring kit .490?
And none of this needs any fabrication?
In #4 did you mean replace the gasket with a bonded plate.?
Like this one :
Dino
#6
LS1Tech Sponsor
Thanks Franks,
Is .5 boost valve same as Sonnax Boost valve and spring kit .490?
And none of this needs any fabrication?
In #4 did you mean replace the gasket with a bonded plate.?
Like this one :
https://www.amazon.com/Transmission-...7&gad_source=1
Dino
Is .5 boost valve same as Sonnax Boost valve and spring kit .490?
And none of this needs any fabrication?
In #4 did you mean replace the gasket with a bonded plate.?
Like this one :
https://www.amazon.com/Transmission-...7&gad_source=1
Dino
The end plugs
Spring kit to get the two booster springs from at harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/200-pi...xoCmPEQAvD_BwE
And no fabrication needed all easy installs .
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OddJack (06-21-2024)
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#8
Close enough on the boost valve and I use this pate , Its backwards compatible to 95 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J5TSM...roduct_details and gaskets made onto it
The end plugs https://www.amazon.com/BuliBoao-Tran...ve%2C77&sr=1-2
Spring kit to get the two booster springs from at harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/200-pi...xoCmPEQAvD_BwE
And no fabrication needed all easy installs .
The end plugs https://www.amazon.com/BuliBoao-Tran...ve%2C77&sr=1-2
Spring kit to get the two booster springs from at harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/200-pi...xoCmPEQAvD_BwE
And no fabrication needed all easy installs .
By the way, I have already installed the Fitzall TCC valve,
Is there any upgrades to the accumulator?
I am feeling the downshifts sometimes, not sure if its 3-2 or 2-1. Is there a way to eliminate that? I heard it's normal though
#9
LS1Tech Sponsor
Pretty normal and varies by vehicle, best solutions I have found is lower the 3-2 downshift between 0 and 5 percent throttle till its right at equal to the 2-1 . but the 3-2 is what you are feeling and it is normal an varies
The following users liked this post:
OddJack (06-21-2024)