Hello

Should be a rather simple part one question and who might know part two

First..I LS Swapped a Porsche Boxster..finishing up car stuff now, swap about 95 % and running.

Running PWM water pump, Am I right that either gray wire in the harness pigtails ( the wires on the plug that are factory cut and on a plug) , can be set up for operation? Of coarse I read up on set up in the Terminator, looks pretty easy, add a 5K resistor, ,being I need a switched positive and terminator switches negative ..Click Fifth has a short and great video!

Second is anyone do a porsche swap? will/can stock TPS work with the terminator? I did not compare ohm out GM TPS and Porsche TPS yet. I was going pull the one in my swapped 69 Camaro and check the two TPS sensor side by side. I figured I would ask here.. not getting back to the project for a few weeks

Thanks

 

You have to select a PWM compatible output from the 4 wires supplied. Connect that to your PWM module and enable it in the Holley program. Not sure what the resistor is for, I've never needed them for any PWM fan/pump installs I've done

Holley is compatible with almost any 3 wire 5v TPS. Hook up the wires and see if a TPS autoset can be performed. If so, it'll work. Are you trying to LS swap the Porsche or put a new control system on a Porsche engine? If the latter, focus more on getting a crank/cam input sync'd. Other sensors are mostly add-ons and can be scaled in the programming

 

Hi

I have a Porsche that is gutted, it's a track car..no Porsche engine management at all, only Porsche electrics left are ABS module and the TPS and fuel pump I was going to leave stock TPS , because it's there and in the right spot. I do have a GM TPS and throttle pedal I found last night, just figured the Porsche pedal is already there , and to mount the GM pedal I have , might be tricky.

The resistor is because the terminator switches PWM negative and the CWA400 pump needs a PWM switched positive. The resistor inverts the signal..You have to change the digital pulse high to low. .Positive is high, negative low..The wires you refer to I think I have 6..the two "gray wires" on i think is gray the other has a tracer..cool thanks for that

The TPS..autolearn? Man this terminator is some set up! I will check that..It's endless!!

 

Ok, Terminator X/Max are limited to PWM- only. HP/Dominator can do both PWM +/-
Poor memory on my part

X/X max have 4 white/striped inputs and 4 gray/striped outputs that can be reconfigured. HP/Dom and expansion modules have more I/O available

TPS autoset is a required process to tell the ECU what the throttle range is. Your sensor may have a full 0-100% range, but the throttle may only move a portion of that EX: 8-92%. Instead of idling at a permanent 8%, the ECU will equate 8% to 0% and when the TPS reaches 92% it will consider that WOT. If the sensor is out of range, the process will fail and you'll need to manually adjust the sensor/throttle. Similar for DBW, but it's more of a pass/fail since they aren't adjustable

With DBW, pedals act as two TPS sensors reading opposite for redundancy. EX 0-100% vs 100-0%
TB's have the same travel sensors and a stepper motor

If you can wire the non-GM TB/Pedal in a way that the signals operate in a similar function, then you should be able to use them with the holley ECU. Often times it's easier to simply adapt the GM pedal/TB to whatever you're converting than use the non-GM stuff. Remember, Holley is made to be user friendly. It's not as universal as some other EFI systems like megasquirt

 

That is GREAT info! Yeah..a lot of you guys are smarter than the engineers! Yeah..that's the wire colors..I will pick a gray as I have seen..Man, Holley is something , real good s#@t!

I have a commercial truck dealership, SO on the TPS on large trucks, I am used to with 6 wire, they don't work like that..They have IVS (idle validation switch) so in the event of a TPS or wire problem, return to idle, switches "idle" , no erratic or full throttle where as the older three wire sensor, you loose sensor return..a full 5 votls can go down the signal and look out! full governed RPM!

I will try the Porsche TPS, it's not set in stone..I would simply drill and install some Rivnuts or weld on some mount studs to the firewall, but there is a fuel tank in front soooo..that might be a no go! Maybe a Plan "C"!

One more thing if I may..I have the TPS to Terminator X TPS cable, which is too short and says don't cut or modify.. I did not trim back the cable cover yet.. I would not think it is shielded.. and it does not feel like twisted pairs..problem with adding a section? I have the pins and sockets, crimpers if I want to legthen it and only use one spice..I did not check for Holley or aftermarket longer harnesses

Thanks

 

Give Holley's tech line a call if you get too deep into the weeds. They really know their stuff and helped me out on a few oddball projects

I still think you're missing the forest for the trees. Focus on crank/cam, then the other engine sensors will fall into place. Maybe porsche TPS, maybe something GM adapted. CRK/CAM are the hardest to dial in for anything not LS. If the Porsche CRK is not an evenly spaced reluctor or one that Holley has pre-defined, then you may be mounting a universal crank trigger. Getting TDC, offset, etc set should be priority #1. Without that sync'd, the engine will never even attempt to fire

Holley's TPS wiring is not twisted or shielded, it's just 3 sensor wires. Their DBW cable is though, so I think we may be talking about different things. Shielded cables should not be extended or repaired. Holley sells 6 wire cable in various lengths. Order as needed, CTF and terminate. In a pinch, you can skip the shield cable and use concentric twisting for the same effect

 

You gave me great info..but as per my original post..this is a LS swapped Porsche Boxster..

I did up a L92, and it does run..I went to a car show yesterday with my ProStreet car, so after that came home, fudged up some wire to the water pump, logged into the Terminator and the water pump is working fine, speed changes just fine once set up, I soaked the CTS in a cup of cold water, then hot water..so I'm happy!

.The TPS I am using the extra one I found the other night. The TPS wire..the one that goes to the pedal from the Terminator is the one I want extend, so yes, we're talking about the right piece .And I should have known, by looking at it....It's a six wire sensor, that has a few wires connected together /jumped and that is Holley cable not altered. not, so I'll make my own extension The drive by wire is plenty long enough..Mid engine car, Terminator is in the trunk..only about 12 " away

I am familiar with RF in wiring, and that's why I asked if it was shielded. Some controls are very sensitive to this, so no running that wiring next to "noisy" wires..I'm used to data bus wires and CAN bus on heavy vehicles..4 twists per inch, etc..

Thanks for the info..Have a great day!

 

I'm sorry, been jumping between many builds and missed the LS. Thought you were running the Boxer with terminator. Disregard the CRK sync stuff, that's already solved for you

Holley's shielded groups are all in rubber jacketed cables with foil shields and bare drain cables. These should never be extended/repaired. Holley sells replacement cable in various lengths to CTF for whatever you need
Sensors that are not shielded can be extended as you wish within reason. If you're familiar with RF, then you should be familiar with what creates noise and GP on avoiding it

You still may benefit from a flying lead and building your own harness

 

Holley 572-100 should be what you need

ECU uses AMP terminals, but more common GM 100W terminals also fit and most shops still have them from early LS1 days
Pedal connector is common female Delphi 150 GT terminals
Connector is reusable

 

Good useful information. Thanks Pocket

 

You saved me looking up numbers!

I am fortunate in which my shop stocks al those PIA to find pins and sockets, I'm sure we have them.. I might have some shielded cable as well, if not, you gave me the number as well

Time to build...

Thanks