After pulling the 416 apart and finding what appeared to have glazed over cylinder walls, i decided to just re-ring the engine and new bearings.

All the bearings looked good. Maybe a few tiny grooves from small bits of trash going thru them. No marks on the rod or crank journals.

I honed the block with a 400 grit Dingle ball hone, with about 4 to 6 strokes. Some cylinders required a few more strokes to get the glaze off the walls and look better than others.

Last times my ring gaps i set up at .022 top and .026 bottom. This time i set them up tighter with .018 and .020.

Main bearing clearances are set at .0020 to .0023
Thrust is at .007

Setting up the rod clearances today.

Changes im making to my combo, I've switch cams from a 239/247 tsp grind to a BTR 246/260. Selling the current TFS 235 heads. Im on the fence about replacement heads, im leaving towards TFS 255 or AFR 260 rec ports or BTR new canted valve cathedrals.

 

The canted valves would be awesome! TFS255 are dogs. Summit is pushing the new TGS280’s in their place. The AFR260 are excellent heads but probably one of the pricier options.

That cam change would love some bigger heads.

 

im leaning more and more towards the canted. I like the hollow stem valves they come with. Other heads might flow more, but come with heavy valves and if you can't control the valve train it doesn't matter what they flow on a bench.

 

Forget all the heads you listed and go with GPI Small Bore LS7's. Heads are absolutely killer. My Brodix BR1's are bad *** also, Mueller has them with hollow stems. Either flow 370 and will make more than what you have. Both are also dedicated 4.065 bore chambers.

 

brodix heads have bronze guides just like AFR so those are a no go for me. I just watched a video with Tooley and Richard holdener and he said he flowed a set and I thought he said brodix LS7 heads that flowed 39x@.700 and his new rec port canted valves out flowed them on his bench.

 

I would LOVE to see how the canted valve LS3 head does on a 416 with that cam. That has my vote.

What intake manifold would you be running on it?

 

Boostline just a did test in a roots blown LS w/ BTR cathedral canteds vs 706(lame if you ask me) and they made like 120hp over the 706's. Lot of power, but a totally lopsided test. I want to see the BTR heads vs a BR1 and a Mast LS3 head, then I'll be impressed. I understand the want for iron guides, I am thinking about my LSX build coming up and probably going with the TFS LS7 heads for that just because of the iron guides.

 

this is a carb setup, it'll be a holley split single plane

 

Rod clearances came out .0025 to .0028
that was with using a king xp std size half and a x bearing. Something weird, last time the x bearing was giving me .0005 extra clearance. This time they all where closer to .0010 extra clearance.


Bores honed up nicely. Alot better than the glazed look like before.

 

Were you burning a lot of oil or was it just a bad leak down rate?

 

it had a bad leakdown. First leakdown was with a bad tester, it was showing 30-40% on all cylinders.
bought a new testers and it was showing 10-16%.
Not burning any oil but I only had 500 or so miles on it and like 6 passes. So I just re-ringed and bearing this engine to get by for a few yrs. Ill probably send this block off for sleeves then. Trying to build a garage and get the hotrod bacl together at same time is kinda hard.

 

You might look at a FED TFS 255 head. There was someone else on here a while back who did a set of put up decent whp numbers. Before you dump your 235's, I would give Greg Good a call and just ask what he can do to those to push them next level. Those heads are tough to beat on that bore size. I would say only the BR1, small bor LS7 or 11 degree LS3 head is marginally better and they would all have to be on point. I would at least get an opinion before you change up radically.

 

I can't find anything on their website about a 255 head.

 

​​​​​​Not on their website, you have to call them.

 

Not surprised to hear about the King differences. I build a decent amount of engines. I was a King bearing user for many builds and had very repeatable results…until I didn’t. Took 2 phone calls and an in-person conversation with other builders, and I’ve never bought another set. Their consistency went away. Went back to Clevite, and I’m glad to be back. I measure out to .0001 and Clevite holds the line. King did for a minute, but then…idk what happened to them.

 

maybe the problem with King bearings is the location where they are made and what's going on over there ?????

 

Could be. It really doesn't matter what has happened "over there." What matters to an engine builder is what is NOT happening over here! The sad truth is you can build a reputation for years, then cheapen up the process somewhere, and the reputation is gone in months, not years......

 

Anything out of Israel is quality. This isn’t something that has just happened recently. 5-6+ years ago I’m guessing it’s been now. Besides, those folks have been at war of some scale, for the last 6k years. I don’t know what took place….or didn’t…but I don’t have time to shuffle through 5-6 boxes of bearings only to not find my numbers. I don’t mind spending a day going through bearings, as long as I get what I’m after. I’m picky and if it comes out of my shop, it’s correct, not just close enough.

 

I couldn’t have said it better myself. Truth!

 

Any More, My experience has been the same with Kings and Cleveite. Even with Clevites. Usually have to buy 2 sets to get the clearance.

I had a set of Clevete STDX bearings measure the exact same as the STD. I questioned everything including the machine work and my measuring equipment. Cost me $700 dollars in bearings just for 1 motor... and the Cleveites are less expensive for that application. Not to mention the Tools I replaced. But At least the tools are in investment And I wanted better quality stuff any way.

The ACL bearings are usually on the tighter side. But there not as easy to get for the domestic stuff.