amean94ta

hey i just want the basic low down on your motor setups especially n2o cars

cam,lifters,heads

tq converter, tire and rear gears

also what shot and times you have run


i know i am asking and some of you will be like noway but really we should help each other to make f-bodys the fastest cars around

my best n/a so far with my 13.6:1 compression 396 with a cc306, mid bbk's, borla cat back, 3000 stall and 3.42 10 bolt was a 11.61

new things for this coming summer i just got

i have got long tubes, texas speed style true duals, 4400 stall, 300 maf kit, qa1's with 275 lb springs, tunnel tq arm, rodend lca's and panhard rod, removed sway bar and abs,got 15x3.5 and 15x10 draglites with mt 28x11 streets and working on finding what cam i need and what gear to put in a strange 12 bolt

amean94ta

also wanted to add i am planning on going solid roller

Tony Shepherd

iTrader: (4)

I am working on a new set-up now but my old set-up went 9.8's @ 141 mph with very little suspension work. It was a 396 LT1 with AFR heads(ported by PortPros) Hydraulic cam, 9" rear, 3.55 ratio, 4500 stall, NX direct port 250 shot, Hooker long tubes, Dual exhaust...etc. See website for more info. www.fast93z.com


You should easy get that 9 with the mods you have.

amean94ta

thanks i am hoping to get atleast a 9.99

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

That car is going to pick up so much just from the long tubes alone, with that much compresion and that many cubes having shorties is really choking that thing up. With all the work you plan to do, I bet that thing should be a good deep 10 sec car all motor if it hooks which it should.

amean94ta

thank you very much

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

You didn't mention what heads are on that car in your setup.... So tell me that you don't have 13.6:1 compression and stock heads?????

If so then that's the problem right there... Long before the lack of flow from long tubes your heads are choking the life out of that motor.... My old 355 with stage ii heads, a hydraulic roller cam, and a 4000 stall TH400 went 11.62@119 all motor so you're not exactly doing bad but hell 13.6:1 compression you should be making a lot of power...

If you do have good heads then I think you should be going faster than that on motor. Cuz my 355 had alot less cubes and a lot less compression but ran the same times.... Then again I had Gen VI DFI On that motor so it might be in your tune....

I'd say you're going in the right direction tho. The CC306 is ancient as far as cam technology is concerned. Stick with Comp but look into the xtreme energy series.... Or since you want solid roller look to maybe Cam Motion or some of the comp solid roller grinds...

Might be a good time to upgrade to some AFR's as well...

raymond mckinney

iTrader: (4)

Bigger cam and some Afr's will help out alot!!

amean94ta

sorry about the lack of info i will fill it in now

also i did my calculation on my compression and this is what i got


STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO 14.934

DYNAMIC EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION RATIO 11.568

so guess i am kinda high!!!!!!!!

well my heads are lt1 castings that my cousin that owns the local speed shop had his porter work 40+ hours alone on just my heads.

they were cut on a bridgeport both intake and exhaust then ruffed in by hand. they got hand ported from there and equalized runner volume the flow numbers seemed low for how much work was done they were in the low 280's intake and low 230's exhaust with no pipe but he told me while the numbers meant something there were alot of the story they dont tell on what he did

they were milled to 50 cc and 2.02/1.60 race flow's new seats where put in and a comp valvejob was done with his secret backcut on the valve's for great low lift flow

The intake was milled to fit and ported the same way also opened up for the 58 mm tb its a lt1 also btw

the cam i ran last year was a cc306 on a 112 lsa but my problem is the lifter bores were grovved so i am switching to a solid roller plus i want it to be alot faster and i have no idea why i put in that cam in the first place i think i was worried about it being able to pass emmisions and get it tuned but i am exempt now and i know a solid roller is more than capable of being tuned with the stock computer


a guy 1racerdude is helping me for valvetrain suggestions he speced out this cam

Crower HIPPO or Isky Red Zone or Shubeck for a SBC,ask them.
Call your cam manufacturer and see what they offer in a 250/260@50 with a .400-.410 lobe lift= .656 lift on a 108+4. That may be more cam than ya want on the street,but she will run.
Probably have to get longer valves for spring seat pressure in the 225-250 range and 650-700 open pressure if ya are going to turn it 6500. Maybe a little less but not much.

Longer valves=longer PR's
Run stock heat range in the brand of choice with no exotic metal-- just standard plugs at .035 gap
Never ran SA rollers on a mech roller,but I wouldn't. Your lash will be HARD to set and because of the lash(.025-.030) I think they will come off of the stem in no time. BIG mess,lots of extra money to fix.

amean94ta

I want a race car. i just need to get a idea of what to do from here i am going based on my budget so heads,computer,sheet metal intake are all in the plans but i would like to play while i save up also

this year i did the 12 bolt, suspension, canton oilpan, lt headers and true duals with dumps before the axel and want to get a solid roller and rest of what i need to play this year and next winter worry about a computer/intake/heads

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

me.

1995 LT1 383"

canfield heads - crappy flow - ported by larry meaux
mild hydraulic roller 239/245
Vortech YSi - 20 psi
FMIC
Rossler TH400
4800 A1 converter
moser 12 bolt
4.10 gear
275mm m/t drag radials
3800 lbs raceweight!