Swapping SBC into LT1 F car
01-28-2010, 09:24 PM
#124
I'm almost done with this swap. I only had to cut about a 1/2inch to get the carb to slide in then i used spacers to get the aircleaner higher. Got a 4inch cowl hood on the way.
Last edited by vteckiller; 01-31-2010 at 07:56 AM.
04-17-2010, 04:37 AM
#129
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Finally got the car home, going to dyno engine next week. New BMR K member, upper and lower A arms on the way. Only thing that i am worried about is the wiring. Where do you get power?( starter, fans, water and fuel pump etc.) Also need some help with what tranny to run, car was a v6 with a t5, engine will be putting out 475-525hp (will find out for sure after dyno) Thanks
04-17-2010, 01:17 PM
#131
Yea, my car in this thread has a starter button mounted in front of the ignition key and i ran the fans off of a toggle switch with a relay. I was a T56 6 speed trans in mine as it saw 99% street duty, 3 speeds suck n the street for daily use.
04-18-2010, 12:36 PM
#132
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07-24-2010, 07:23 PM
#133
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Thats crazy to run a push button start, I ran in to this problem and it is not a big deal at all to bypass the theft deterrent module and have the car start with the key.
Locate the theft deterrent module relay. Which is located on the passenger side inside the door post. You will have to take the glove box down, you do not need to remove the dash. The relay is snapped in to the SRM bracket. It is kind of a pain to get to.
There should be a brown wire, which is a power wire from the start switch and a purple wire which is actually the starter wire. This wire runs to your PCM wiring harness by the kick panel then out to the engine bay then to the starter.
There will also be a smaller yellow and black wire that runs to the theft deterrent relay that is from the theft deterrent module, GROUND this wire, cut it about 12 inches back from the relay, crimp a terminal on it and ground down there by the kick panel with all the other ground wires.
This completely bypasses the theft deterrent system. So you will now have power to your starter wire when you turn the key to start.
Just to clarify,
The theft deterrent module measures the resistance in the key, "The little black chip in the key" and then grounds the yellow and black wire to complete the circuit in the relay allowing the car to start. So by grounding this wire you bypass the module.
When I get my car back from my chassis shop I can take some pictures to simplify this more. I completely bypassed the PCM on my car, but either way this will bypass the module and your car will start with the key switch. This is the best and easiest way to solve this problem.
Locate the theft deterrent module relay. Which is located on the passenger side inside the door post. You will have to take the glove box down, you do not need to remove the dash. The relay is snapped in to the SRM bracket. It is kind of a pain to get to.
There should be a brown wire, which is a power wire from the start switch and a purple wire which is actually the starter wire. This wire runs to your PCM wiring harness by the kick panel then out to the engine bay then to the starter.
There will also be a smaller yellow and black wire that runs to the theft deterrent relay that is from the theft deterrent module, GROUND this wire, cut it about 12 inches back from the relay, crimp a terminal on it and ground down there by the kick panel with all the other ground wires.
This completely bypasses the theft deterrent system. So you will now have power to your starter wire when you turn the key to start.
Just to clarify,
The theft deterrent module measures the resistance in the key, "The little black chip in the key" and then grounds the yellow and black wire to complete the circuit in the relay allowing the car to start. So by grounding this wire you bypass the module.
When I get my car back from my chassis shop I can take some pictures to simplify this more. I completely bypassed the PCM on my car, but either way this will bypass the module and your car will start with the key switch. This is the best and easiest way to solve this problem.
Last edited by houseofboost; 07-24-2010 at 10:13 PM.
08-01-2010, 11:48 AM
#136
I also did a sbc Vortec engine swap in my 96 firebird with a BMR K member. But I used a Performer RPM air gap manifold and a plate kit. So when I had to cut my car I ended up grinding the area where the lower windshield wiper bolt goes away. But it still has two bolts holding it and with a small notch to the wiper mechanism it to clear the float bowl everything works just fine. And the underside panel I just cut the bottom area out and I have just enough room to snake the distributor out without having to cut the second panel out that goes under the dash. Some people should have pics of that up. My motor is coming out to go with a larger motor. Maybe when its out I can post these pics. Also I retained the stock lt1 radiator and fan unit and found a couple differn't radiator hoses and that were molded to funny at autozone and made radiator hoses to fit. With my fans I used a Thermostatic switch from Be Cool to trigger the factory fan relays and used the stock harness. I fortunately had the keys and all to this car when I got it and left the stock pcm and bcm in it so it starts just fine with the key and all the power windows and locks work. The fuel pump was a differnt story I had to jump the relay to come on with the key and put a kill switch in to shut it off when I want. The only wire that I really had to run myself was the thermostatic fan temp switch wire and the power wire to the hei distributor. Its not super easy but its not rocket science either.
Last edited by Oldsmobility85; 08-05-2010 at 04:59 PM.
