1975 corvette, 502 ci
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1975 corvette, 502 ci Hi,
I've an opportunity to buy this vehicle here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3s-...rful-75-a.html
I don't know much about big blocks, so here's a few questions:
- what do you guys think is the rwhp of this thing?
- rough idea on 1/4mi times?
- is it worth what the person's asking for it? i understand modded cars are worth as much as somebody's willing to pay for it, but am curious if that's a fair/good price for the vehicle.
All answers appreciated.
I've an opportunity to buy this vehicle here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3s-...rful-75-a.html
I don't know much about big blocks, so here's a few questions:
- what do you guys think is the rwhp of this thing?
- rough idea on 1/4mi times?
- is it worth what the person's asking for it? i understand modded cars are worth as much as somebody's willing to pay for it, but am curious if that's a fair/good price for the vehicle.
All answers appreciated.
I hate when people put up cam numbers and use advertised duration numbers. That cam at .050 is 242/250 ground on a 112. The motor is only 9.6 compression from GM so I don't see it having too much bottom end grunt with that much cam, if it was more like 10:1 or better it would be a runner. Once you get the rpms up it should come alive though. As far as the 1/4 mile time it should run well into the 11's but thats if you're dumping the clutch and hook. That's if you don't break the halfshafts or the trans.
The only way to find that out is to put it on a dyno and find out or you can google one of the dyno calculators and then figure in the drivetrain loss to find rwhp.
The only way to find that out is to put it on a dyno and find out or you can google one of the dyno calculators and then figure in the drivetrain loss to find rwhp.
i think thats the 620hp version of the 502. so through the richmond probably 520-560 with a torque curve as flat as a counter top. yes the motor and trans is worth most of it and its a nice car imo. i would do it for sure if your looking for a really fun car to drive
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i think thats the 620hp version of the 502. so through the richmond probably 520-560 with a torque curve as flat as a counter top. yes the motor and trans is worth most of it and its a nice car imo. i would do it for sure if your looking for a really fun car to drive
but speaking of the tranny, I'm not sure it inspires much confidence actually.
its the first tranny on this page: http://www.richmondgear.com/01fivespeed.html - "street 5 speed".
I've been trying to find out what HP its rated to, and I can't find that info.
I'd hate for it to blow up as soon as I get it
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I am almost positive it is 550hp rated but that is what u would want to put in that car.It is not a overdrive tranny but w/ the 3:08's in the car u will have 4:56's out of the hole and still 3:08's in 5th.
when buying a c3 you need to be very very careful. go through that car very good or you could be buying a huge headache.
i have a 69 im not sure what changes they made from 69 to 75 but these are some areas on mine that were huge issues.
check the frame down by the trailing arm and the trailing arms them selves. my trailing arms were pretty shot the frame was solid except where the trailing arm bolts to the frame this was pretty much rotted to hell there. we had to replace the frame.
you also want to check out the body supports and mounts. another area you want to look at is around the windshield frame and the rocker channel supports.
i have a 69 im not sure what changes they made from 69 to 75 but these are some areas on mine that were huge issues.
check the frame down by the trailing arm and the trailing arms them selves. my trailing arms were pretty shot the frame was solid except where the trailing arm bolts to the frame this was pretty much rotted to hell there. we had to replace the frame.
you also want to check out the body supports and mounts. another area you want to look at is around the windshield frame and the rocker channel supports.
Thread Starter
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
when buying a c3 you need to be very very careful. go through that car very good or you could be buying a huge headache.
i have a 69 im not sure what changes they made from 69 to 75 but these are some areas on mine that were huge issues.
check the frame down by the trailing arm and the trailing arms them selves. my trailing arms were pretty shot the frame was solid except where the trailing arm bolts to the frame this was pretty much rotted to hell there. we had to replace the frame.
you also want to check out the body supports and mounts. another area you want to look at is around the windshield frame and the rocker channel supports.
i have a 69 im not sure what changes they made from 69 to 75 but these are some areas on mine that were huge issues.
check the frame down by the trailing arm and the trailing arms them selves. my trailing arms were pretty shot the frame was solid except where the trailing arm bolts to the frame this was pretty much rotted to hell there. we had to replace the frame.
you also want to check out the body supports and mounts. another area you want to look at is around the windshield frame and the rocker channel supports.
what's going to complicate the matters is that the car's in MI, so I'm flying there (I'm in NY). don't know any mechanics in that area or anything, really. hoping there will be a lift in the guy's garage or something
hopefully the car's as good as it sounds in the description and looks in the pics, because if it is....
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From: PA
Ohh man. I'm actually doing a project with a buddy building a pro-street 75 with a 502. Full tubbed, 8 point cage, 8.5 10 bolt, tko 5 speed. Just did the full exhaust and all the accessory pulleys. But both of us going back to college is really killing it. 
