budget 350
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budget 350 stock 350 bottom from 79 with 80k miles, vortec 5.7 heads, .490/.485 233/266 comp cam. This is a copy of a Hot Rod build from 09. 390hp at 5600, 395tq at 5500. Trying to stay cheap and make similiar power. Have these parts readily accessable but was wondering what some of you would say. I'm not very chevy smart so if there's a better combo out there that does the same job and can be junkyard built id like to hear it. Also, with the above info, what stall conv would be reccomended? Thanks guys for any info.
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Let me rephrase.
I'm looking to make 350hp at the wheels for my build. Stock shortblocks and vortec heads are abundant for me. Which block (350 2piece main seal, early 90s tbi, 94/5?-99? Vortec) makes best power with the vortec heads? All the builds I've read are with vortec heads on the 2piece blocks and they are apparently plenty capable of doing what I want but as always, more power is never a bad thing lol. Just wanna mmake sure I get the best combo, don't wana do everything and found it coulda been better 2 months later. think like this, I'm not building a motor just piecing one together.
I'm looking to make 350hp at the wheels for my build. Stock shortblocks and vortec heads are abundant for me. Which block (350 2piece main seal, early 90s tbi, 94/5?-99? Vortec) makes best power with the vortec heads? All the builds I've read are with vortec heads on the 2piece blocks and they are apparently plenty capable of doing what I want but as always, more power is never a bad thing lol. Just wanna mmake sure I get the best combo, don't wana do everything and found it coulda been better 2 months later. think like this, I'm not building a motor just piecing one together.
If you have access to a roller 1 piece block, go with that and substitute the roller cam over the flat tappet. Less to worry about with making sure you don't kill a lobe with these stupid oils nowadays. Plus I like the one piece rms a lot better for sealing. The strength of the blocks is supposedly the same. I heard the 96 up roller blocks have weak lower cylinders and are prone to cracking. Just a rumor. I haven't seen this firsthand.
That being said, I wish I had access to a few shortblocks and some vortecs.
That being said, I wish I had access to a few shortblocks and some vortecs.
My car sports stock un-ported vortecs.
The car made 320/306 to the tire 1 3/4 hooker super comps through a crimp bent 2.5 inch dual setup w/h-pipe and flow stopper 40series
with a crane 238/246 490/495 112lsa a set of hardened lite weight p/r's and promag 1.52's and around 10.2 : 1 compression
I ran the times in my sig with just 18 inch collector extensions.
The car made 320/306 to the tire 1 3/4 hooker super comps through a crimp bent 2.5 inch dual setup w/h-pipe and flow stopper 40series
with a crane 238/246 490/495 112lsa a set of hardened lite weight p/r's and promag 1.52's and around 10.2 : 1 compression
I ran the times in my sig with just 18 inch collector extensions.
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Thanks for responses guys.
So if I'm staying with roller cam, might as well just throw a cam in a complete vortec and then swap to carb. I've read its possible to make near 400hp this way. Is that true? Again, I don't know much about chevy stuff. I've been a dakota guy since I was old enough to drive but the low cast of chevy add ons is calling my name.just hoping to have a strong running, 350ish to the wheels that ill throw a 100 shot at. Trying to keep in mind I work at a junkyard and need to use that to my advantage.
So if I'm staying with roller cam, might as well just throw a cam in a complete vortec and then swap to carb. I've read its possible to make near 400hp this way. Is that true? Again, I don't know much about chevy stuff. I've been a dakota guy since I was old enough to drive but the low cast of chevy add ons is calling my name.just hoping to have a strong running, 350ish to the wheels that ill throw a 100 shot at. Trying to keep in mind I work at a junkyard and need to use that to my advantage.
You'd still need to put springs on the heads for whatever cam you use. This would require machining depending on what springs you go with. I keep reading that the beehive springs require no machine work. I hope this is true.
If I worked at a junkyard, I'd be messing with ls series motors.
If I worked at a junkyard, I'd be messing with ls series motors.
Well kind of....
You will have to cut the seats for springs and guides for higher lift (.480 is max). Otherwise the reatiners hit the valve seals. Im runnin Lt4 springs and a flat tappit cam.
In a manual trans app i think your numbers are obtainable, but an auto with enough converter to support the cam you'll need... prolly not.
You will have to cut the seats for springs and guides for higher lift (.480 is max). Otherwise the reatiners hit the valve seals. Im runnin Lt4 springs and a flat tappit cam.
In a manual trans app i think your numbers are obtainable, but an auto with enough converter to support the cam you'll need... prolly not.
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Ok, just read a follow up to a cheap 350 build. Stock 350 bottom 2piece main seal, flat top cast pistons, steel shim headgaskets, vortec heads, beehive springs for up to .560 lift(I think), and a comp ***** thumper camshaft. Made right at 400 horses. They say they're using an edelbrock rpm intake, I plan on rpm airgap and following the build plan as much as possible otherwise. Of course being streetable with an auto is major concern. Stall limited to around 3k. Ill search for the build I'm talking about and post a link. I intend on using a th350 trans and my rear gears are 3.92 from factory with lsd. Does this combo seem decent? Don't know trucks weight but ill look it up.
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http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ild/index.html
Here's the 2nd part of the build with an overview of what they did the 1st time around.
My truck weighs around 4500lbs.
Here's the 2nd part of the build with an overview of what they did the 1st time around.
My truck weighs around 4500lbs.
