Manual Trannies that will hold a 750+ hp big block?
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Any suggestions--I'll always be a sucker for a standard, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips on looking for a tranny that won't break my bank, but I won't be going through clutches every 500 miles.
The engine will be in the 454-496 range and will be on nitrous, but I've got LOTS of time to get details together. It's just never too early to start asking around.
Thanks in advance.
The engine will be in the 454-496 range and will be on nitrous, but I've got LOTS of time to get details together. It's just never too early to start asking around.
Thanks in advance.
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Depends on how you drive,how many gears, etc. Jerico can custom make a four or five speed with road racing snycro's so you can down shift for about $3000-$4500 range(w/shifter) , pricey, but will handle 1500hp no problem all day long. If not, speed-o-motive will build a 650hp muncie for $1500 and if you don't take it to the track a lot or speed shift like a ***** then it should hold up, and their are various other t-5's and t-56's that companies build to hold up in the $2000-$2500 range.
The clutch, hands down the McLeod street twin set up. It's about $800 bucks and has a stock pedal feel but the twin disc set up will hold 1200-1400Hp no problem they claim. As far as a single disc set up the most they are rated to is about 650Hp, and that's with a decent pedal still, anything over 650hp then the pedal pressure would be a leg press workout, plus the disc would chatter like crazy for street driving.(ie, pulling away from a stop unless you mash it everytime)
So basically there is no real cheap way to do it for that much power, you could probably get away with a centerforce dual friction clutch set up and a M-22 "rockcrusher" muncie if you drive it on the street, with radials/street slicks, and that's no dropping the clutch from a stop with the slicks. Radials will give enough for the power, but then you don't move anywhere, so 400Ft burnouts look cool but you'll lose to lot's of cars that shouldn't beat ya. I'm also assuming that the nitrous won't be on until 3500-4000rpm and the 750hp is on the juice.
I have a 498ci stroker in my 4000lb '70 chevelle with the exact set up as above (centerforce/m-22) I run mickey thompson et street's and I'm pushing 650lbs and 620hp 4:10 rear end, my set up works out, but I don't drop the clutch from a stand still. I'm thinking of going with the speed-o-motive tranny and the mcleod clutch set up, and then spray mine with 150 shot. So like I said before, depends on what set up you want to run, how you drive, type of car it is, stuff like that. Hope this helps in your quest for speed
The clutch, hands down the McLeod street twin set up. It's about $800 bucks and has a stock pedal feel but the twin disc set up will hold 1200-1400Hp no problem they claim. As far as a single disc set up the most they are rated to is about 650Hp, and that's with a decent pedal still, anything over 650hp then the pedal pressure would be a leg press workout, plus the disc would chatter like crazy for street driving.(ie, pulling away from a stop unless you mash it everytime)
So basically there is no real cheap way to do it for that much power, you could probably get away with a centerforce dual friction clutch set up and a M-22 "rockcrusher" muncie if you drive it on the street, with radials/street slicks, and that's no dropping the clutch from a stop with the slicks. Radials will give enough for the power, but then you don't move anywhere, so 400Ft burnouts look cool but you'll lose to lot's of cars that shouldn't beat ya. I'm also assuming that the nitrous won't be on until 3500-4000rpm and the 750hp is on the juice.
I have a 498ci stroker in my 4000lb '70 chevelle with the exact set up as above (centerforce/m-22) I run mickey thompson et street's and I'm pushing 650lbs and 620hp 4:10 rear end, my set up works out, but I don't drop the clutch from a stand still. I'm thinking of going with the speed-o-motive tranny and the mcleod clutch set up, and then spray mine with 150 shot. So like I said before, depends on what set up you want to run, how you drive, type of car it is, stuff like that. Hope this helps in your quest for speed
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I'd check with Pro Motion. I know they build alot of T-5's & T-56's that are guaranteed to hold over 750hp and ft lbs. A friend of mine bought one from them for his mustang and its suppose to hold 750hp and he payed $2200 for it. Alot of the guys in Fun Ford classes and NMRA are running their stuff.
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Thanks for the help (and sorry for the different SN, the first one ended up acting weird so I had to re-register).
This will be a 69 Camaro (that currently needs just about everything). I will be going with a Mark Williams 9 inch, mini tubbed with 295 tires in the rear, etc. The nitrous I still have lots of details to work out, but so far I know it will be a single stage, won't be off the line, probably kick in at about 2500-3000 rpms only at WOT.
I'll drive this one on the street, the strip, and if I'm feeling crazy a road course or two (but I'll probably just keep my daily for the corners).
Of course, that turbo 400 is sounding like an easier route every day, but like I said, I still have plenty of time.
This will be a 69 Camaro (that currently needs just about everything). I will be going with a Mark Williams 9 inch, mini tubbed with 295 tires in the rear, etc. The nitrous I still have lots of details to work out, but so far I know it will be a single stage, won't be off the line, probably kick in at about 2500-3000 rpms only at WOT.
I'll drive this one on the street, the strip, and if I'm feeling crazy a road course or two (but I'll probably just keep my daily for the corners).
Of course, that turbo 400 is sounding like an easier route every day, but like I said, I still have plenty of time.
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If the car is originally a manual car I'de do the manual no matter what! That would be cool IMO. But when I saw a 65 Chevelle at the track sunday I also say differently. It had a pretty hot sounding big block in the car BUT with the way the car was set up anything under 2 grand in cruising first gear the car would buck and jump and just didn't seem to like to be street driven( I am just going by what I saw in the pits while the car was driving throught @ about 10-15 mph). I'm not gunna try to say to NOT do it but from what I saw the car wouldn't have been very fun to drive on the street.
Josh S.
Josh S.
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The Turbo 400 will definately be a much easier route than doing a 5 or 6spd. And as far as the engine being to radical for a manual tranny... That only has to do with the camshaft that you use. You can have a stock 350 with a huge cam and it will do the same thing (kicking and bucking). It all just depends on how radical you go with the engine setup.
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It's currently an auto--turbo 350. But the tranny's being replaced no matter what.
I'm not finished blueprinting what I want, but you can be sure it's not going to be a super mild cam. haha
I'm not finished blueprinting what I want, but you can be sure it's not going to be a super mild cam. haha