Got the bad set of vortec heads help me
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Got the bad set of vortec heads help me
First I would like to say Hi, my names sean, this is my first post here. This site looks to be very helpfull Knowing there is many great engine builders on here, specially for me since this is my first motor build up. I am 17. Have a 350 vortec block. Ready to start the build.
my vortec heads are the 906's article states.
"10239906, which has a modified exhaust seat and loses 20 percent of its flow at 0.120-inch lift."
That is not good. I have been researching a lot on these heads. Recently right after i found out my valve springs i was using and how the guide seats would need to be cut ect. I found out that my vortecs are the ones they say to avoid. So how can i fix this? Get a full port job or what is it. Where is the "exhaust seat" located. I know yous can help me. I appreciate it thanks! welcome me
my vortec heads are the 906's article states.
"10239906, which has a modified exhaust seat and loses 20 percent of its flow at 0.120-inch lift."
That is not good. I have been researching a lot on these heads. Recently right after i found out my valve springs i was using and how the guide seats would need to be cut ect. I found out that my vortecs are the ones they say to avoid. So how can i fix this? Get a full port job or what is it. Where is the "exhaust seat" located. I know yous can help me. I appreciate it thanks! welcome me
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"10239906, which has a modified exhaust seat and loses 20 percent of its flow at 0.120-inch lift."
That is not good. I have been researching a lot on these heads. Recently right after i found out my valve springs i was using and how the guide seats would need to be cut ect. I found out that my vortecs are the ones they say to avoid. So how can i fix this? Get a full port job or what is it. Where is the "exhaust seat" located. I know yous can help me. I appreciate it thanks! welcome me [/QUOTE]
The exhaust seat is directly under the exhaust valve and is what the valve seals against when it is closed. I suspect some port work would fix that problem, but since I have not read the article, I do not know what other reasons they would suggest avoiding that casting number. Personally, unless you are building a basically stock motor, I would suggest using some Edelbrock Etec heads. they are a vortec style head (uses vortec intake) but are set up with screw in studs and guide plates for use with regular rockers and larger cams.
That is not good. I have been researching a lot on these heads. Recently right after i found out my valve springs i was using and how the guide seats would need to be cut ect. I found out that my vortecs are the ones they say to avoid. So how can i fix this? Get a full port job or what is it. Where is the "exhaust seat" located. I know yous can help me. I appreciate it thanks! welcome me [/QUOTE]
The exhaust seat is directly under the exhaust valve and is what the valve seals against when it is closed. I suspect some port work would fix that problem, but since I have not read the article, I do not know what other reasons they would suggest avoiding that casting number. Personally, unless you are building a basically stock motor, I would suggest using some Edelbrock Etec heads. they are a vortec style head (uses vortec intake) but are set up with screw in studs and guide plates for use with regular rockers and larger cams.
Last edited by BOWTIE; 04-09-2005 at 11:45 PM. Reason: modification
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nah this is my first build i'm not trying to spend a lot of money. when i get brand new heads i'll probably go all out on them lol. But i'll just get these ported. Thats the only problem they mentioned as in "bolt on stock heads" which was better.
#7
I have the 906 vortec casting, and I ported the **** out of them. Port the bowl area and exaust ports, do not touch the intake ports. You must machine the spring seat and around the guide if you want to run a bigger spring. You can use the bee hive springs to get around this, but they don't last long because they don't have a dampener. You don't need screw in studs unless your running a lot of spring pressure.
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Have a machine shop do a multi-angle valve job on the heads as well as porting this should help flow alot.
Originally Posted by Vortec355
I have the 906 vortec casting, and I ported the **** out of them. Port the bowl area and exaust ports, do not touch the intake ports. You must machine the spring seat and around the guide if you want to run a bigger spring. You can use the bee hive springs to get around this, but they don't last long because they don't have a dampener. You don't need screw in studs unless your running a lot of spring pressure.
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Yeah i'm gunna run comp 987 springs, i know all that stuff/the guide work needing to be done. I'll take your word on the porting ect. Actually i'm going to run screw in studs with a 1.6 rocker combo. using the xr282 cam. shottin 400-450 at the crank!!
#11
350 at the wheels right now, I never dynoed the car. I'm running a small block 355 with 11.8:1 compression 3500 stall and 4.56 gears with a 700R4. The cam is a hydraulic roller 488/502 lift 224/230 @ .050 with a 112 lsa. I'm running the Edelbrock RPM air gap with an 850 double pumper. The RPM air gap is the best manifold for the Vortec heads, and I highly recommed it over any other intake. I ran the best of 7.85@86.2 in the 8th with a 1.65 60 ft time. This year I'm swapping the cam for a way bigger one to match my combo better. The cam I have now will work best with a 2500 stall and 3.42's.
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hey dude, i agree with gettin the heads worked. technically head works fixes all if the shop u does it is talented. with flat tops and the right cam setup ull be good to go. id say for the power goal go with like a .500/.500 cam around 224 duration. hell a firing order change cam would be good too, ud hve the curve of the ls1.