JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Hi guys, I'm building a 434 for use in the One Lap of America for a 95 Trans Am. EDIT: After talking to some people and seeing what I can get out of it, I'll go with an EFI system. It'll probably see 8500 RPM and should make 900-950 HP if not more depending on what compression I ultimately decide on. Right now it's about 12.5:1 with a DCR in the 8.8:1 region, but the FAST XFI let's me adjust the timing maps so I could run 91-octane with low timing and then 100-octane and pump the timing way up to get the power back. And with the Kinsler manifold and ITB design, drivability should actually be decent.

*Updated* list:

Dart Iron Eagle Tall Deck Block 4.155" Bore with Splayed 4-Bolt Billet Main Caps with 400 Main Bearings
Bryant Billet 4.000" Crankshaft with 2.000" Main Journals
Lentz Billet 6.300" Connecting Rods with SPS CARR 7/16" Rod Bolts and EDM Pin Oiling
Wiseco 2618 Forged 11° Gas Ported 18cc Inverted Dome Pistons with Calico Coated Side Skirts and Casidium Coated .170" Wall Tool Steel Wrist Pins
NPR Stainless Chrome .043" Piston Rings
ARP Main Studs
Clevite 77 "H" Series Coated Race Bearings
Fully Machined Block with Deck Plates to 0.000" Deck Height
Balance Rotating Assembly
Moroso Pro Series Dry Sump Oil System with Vacuum Pump
Jesel Belt Drive for .391" Raised Camshaft
CSR Billet Electric Water Pump
LSM 285/296 .904"/.888" 106+4 LSA Billet Core .900" Base Circle 4-7 Swap Camshaft
LSM Keyed .937" Solid Roller Lifters with Keyway Bronze Guides
Manton 3/8" to 7/16" Tapered Chromoly 8.150" Pushrods
Jesel Pro Series Shaft Mounted Offset 1.7:1 Roller Rockers
Dart 315cc Little Chief 11° CNC Ported Heads with 50cc Chambers (flow 300cfm @ .400" and 401 @ .700" and 415 @ 1.000")
Cometic MLS 4.200" Bore Head Gaskets .040" Compressed
ARP Custom 3/8" Head Studs
Dart Little Chief Cast Aluminum Valve Covers
ATI Super Damper Harmonic Balancer
Blueprint and Assemble Longblock with All Seals
Kinsler Fuel Injected Dart Little Chief Intake Manifold with Fuel Rails and Siemens Deka 86lbs Fuel Injectors
Aeromotive A-1000 EFI Fuel System Kit with Fuel Cell
CSR Mini High Torque Starter
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor
MSD 7AL2 Ignition Box
MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires
FAST XFI EFI System with Fuel and Ignition Harnesses and O2 Sensors
FAST Crank Trigger
FAST MAP, Water, and Air Sensors
Kooks 2" Custom Headers into a custom 3.5" True Dual setup

I'm looking at around $40+k into the engine now. I may switch to the LS1 coil packs as the FAST XFI will control it as well. We'll see. I've also thought about a billet block for weight savings, and at the price, what's another 5k, but I like iron blocks as they've done well for me in the past.

What do you guys think?

cwaldt

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like a good project. Good luck.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Nice. One Lap of America is where it's at. The shop I used to work for raced a street legal Radical across the country about 2 years ago. Damon Josz (my old boss) was the driver.

Definately some cool cars there. He had a blast doing it in the Radical, he did fairly well as well. The amount of money in some of those cars in incredible.

That's something that either with my car, or my next project car I'm definately going to consider doing.

Looks like a stout setup. It's all about getting that power to the ground though! What are you going to use for the rest of the driveline? What kind of suspension setup do you plan on running?

Very cool project

91Z28

My god, and I thought that I was the only one thinking about blowing close to 30k on a motor. Looks like a killer setup, I'm about to take a 1 year contract overseas and have been thinking about building a a killer 427 all aluminum SBC when I get back. You definitely have spared no expense in that engine, good luck I hope you make 850hp with that beast.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I'll be going with a suspension setup designed by Strano. I'll retrofit the Stoptech LS1 kit for braking power. Fikse rims with BFG g-Force T/A KD (since street tires are required) will handle putting the power to the ground.

A Tilton 5.5" triple disc clutch mated to a custom aluminum driveshaft will connect into a stock rear. Yes, a stock rear since it's street tires and the 10-bolt is light and will have no higher than 3.42 gears. I will flog on a built 10-bolt (with T2R) for a while after it's all put together to see how it holds. If it does okay, I might consider using one and bringing a spare along.

Since I'm going to try to get the T/A down to 3000lbs or so with me in it and a rollcage, I think it'll be insane to drive with this much power.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

It's not hard to spend $30k on a motor when you want top notch stuff and you want to push the envelope a little. Although, I'll say I don't think 850 is pushing the envelope terribly as it is a 434 SBC with 18-degree heads with no restrictions in place. The no restrictions thing is what causes the price to explode.

I am still up in the air a bit on the crank Bryant versus Callies (or Moldex if it didn't take eight months). Lentz or Carrillo rods versus Oliver, and even the heads I'm not sold on, but I have a general idea or what I want. That's why I posted this to see if anyone has any idea of what I should go with versus what I have. I've done research, but I haven't seen much of this stuff first hand.

91Z28

If you're not set on the heads maybe you might want to consider Brodix's top of the line heads, I think they were called BD2000 or something like that. They looked pretty impressive even with the "stock" port job. Or since your budget looks unlimited have you considered SB2.2? I've been looking into a lot of the same high-end SBC setups. I really want to build a streetable 427 SBC with 600+rwhp next year.

Rebob5

iTrader: (3)

Save yourself 12k and get this
Hendrick motorsports 390 c.i. ,800HP SB2.2

smokin2002

iTrader: (10)

sounds like a fairly radical head and cam package to go across country in!! Make sure youve got a nice vacum reserve or decent brake setup. im sure that long of a trip someone or something would be bound to make you lock em up once or twice. sounds fun though! If i didnt build my motor for race gas i would have to look into it.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Ditto.

IMO, you aren't going to have fun putting 750+HP down to the track surface(s). Those tires aren't going to hook for shieettt.

Remember you'll be light if you get down to 3000 lbs. I'd say a stout 600 ish to the wheels is perfect. The built 10 bolt will probably hold up fine, as you really only have to launch it the one time One Lap does the 1/4 mile. And even then, you have the possibility to get shafted with rain. Other than that it's all road racing. But you have to remember, you're looking at 5k+ miles of driving.


You're pouring an awfull lot of cash into that thing . It will be bad ***, and fun as hell to drive. But the trick is getting it to the ground, and you just can't do that the street tires they require with 140+ UTQG treadwear rating.

Don't take that the wrong way of course. But I'd look into setting up the suspension/chassis first.

That's a sick motor, no doubt. IMO it's just overkill, because the power isn't usable.

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

That motor will be dead below 5000 RPM, and will not be reliable enough to go 5000 miles. We have two aluminum 434ci motors in right now. Neither one made any where near the power you're looking for (950hp), but both have smaller cams- not close to your 285/296 specs. The heads are 12 degree CNC heads on these motors. You could get more peak numbers, but I don't think it would be worth the huge sacrifices. Both motors are in the shop to get freshened up and neither one has anywhere near the amount of wear you're looking at putting on a race motor. Also, these two motors were built without cost being a concern and have several reliability modifications that you didn't bring up.

Two things that I feel need to change in your proposed build,

Less intake lift if you want it to finish the race, and DON'T run the Jesel shaft mount rockers. Those things break all the time on race motors. There are other companies who offer much nicer pieces for the same price. You should compare the amount of parts we stock to fix people's broken Jesel rockers compared to Crowler.

Also, how are you going to keep this thing fueled? Do you have a supply of race gas for all of the events? I wouldn't run that on pump gas like you mentioned. To get the power you're looking at you're going to require more compression that you spec'd.

Where are you located at? Who are you talking to? A 830 annular discharge carburetor tuned on the dyno would get my bet over EFI. Is the EFI for streetability? You can forget streetability with what you're proposing. What you're asking for would be EXACTLY like taking the motor out of a 8-second car and trying to drive it down the road and calling it streetable.

Ben T.

UGotBeaT

I have never seen any trouble with a jesel shaft mount rocker, so I dont know if your rocker geomtry is off or what but jesels are one of the best shaft mounted rockers in the industry right now, along with T&D. The heads will need to be custom ported, I wouldnt recommend a CNC program, granted it will make power but it should be ported to his custom specs, smaller cross section if he wants to make more power down low or sacrifice to make more power up high and along with the cam specs. Hell the little chiefs are capable 470-480 cfm! Not bad for one of the baddest small block heads around

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

I've seen failure after failure with Jesel rockers. You couldn't pay me to run those, and yes the geometry is as perfect as practical. Rockers are shimmed the same and pushrod length is set the same as the Crowlers that DON'T break.

I disagree that they're the best on the market. What last week? We had to use an acetylene torch to get some of their frozen up stuff off a motor. No thank you.

Ben T.

UGotBeaT

To each his own, but Ive never had a problem with them

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

I'm also talking about .650"+ lift solid roller cams at 8K RPM. The cast aluminum body will crack at the roller tip, they'll crack in the middle, and sometimes the fulcrum bearings will seize up around the shaft. Jesel sells all of those repair parts by the way. Guess how I know that. :-)

Ben Theriot

UGotBeaT

.650 plus lift? pfft im talking about .900 plus lift at 9500 rpm

but anyhow jake VERY nice setup

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

hahaha... these aren't drag motors, they are circle track motors that can't fail on the last lap of a 100 lap race.

Ben T.

smokin2002

iTrader: (10)

Im sure Unpractical is the best way to stand out in that event. ill have to look it up, but im sure most of the credits go to the wildest rides.

http://www.onelapofamerica.com/index.shtml