Explain Strokers and SBC to me...
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Launching!
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: South East, WI
Explain Strokers and SBC to me... If i was to have a 350sbc outta a 68 camaro. What could i get outta it if i bored/stroked/forged. Is 383 the biggest i could get? I dont really know how the numbers work out. But im looking to forged and stroke a stock motor and then spray on it. With a very nice set of heads and Cam. Looking to make close to 500 n/a and whatever i end up with on the spray. I would like a 402 stoker but i think i need a whole different shortblock to get that high?
4.030 or 4.060 bore and 4" stroke will get you 406 or 412 "the hard way", but actually its easy for an experienced shop. The cranks aren't too pricey. You need a good block and good clearancing. The easiest way is to go with a 383. A 383 with AFR heads, cam Vic Jr should have not too much trouble making around 500hp NA.
If you have lotsa $$ you can go with a Bowtie, Dart, World aftermarket block and go up to 434ci.
If you have lotsa $$ you can go with a Bowtie, Dart, World aftermarket block and go up to 434ci.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: South East, WI
so if my block is in great shape, our machinst should be able to blueprint/bore and get me to a nice 383. Now when they say 383 stoker its just a big crank right? I know i did some research but for some nice lunati rods, JE Pistons, Forged Eagle crank i know it can handle any N20 spray i can throw at it. Although a 125 shot is about as much as ill give it. Im guessing im looking at like 1200 in parts?
383, you'll need block at least clearanced for the longer 3.750" stroke, you should also have it bored .030 if needed, align honed, decked, checked for cracks etc...
Parts 3.750 stroke crank, 6.00" rods and 383 spec pistons of your choice.
383ci is stock 350 bored .030 with a 3.750" stroke crank. .040 would be 385ci and .060 would be 388ci.
I run a forged 4340 Eagle crank in my 355SBC and it's a very nice affordable piece. It balanced out pretty nice for the money spent. Lunati and JE are also top of the line parts your looking at.
Your looking at $500 for the block work and around $1500-1800 for crank, rods, pistons. That's if you assemble the shortblock yourself. Add another $2000 for heads, cam lifters. Also factor in all the small stuff, gaskets, headbolts, oil pan, etc..... It just keeps adding up, believe me.
Parts 3.750 stroke crank, 6.00" rods and 383 spec pistons of your choice.
383ci is stock 350 bored .030 with a 3.750" stroke crank. .040 would be 385ci and .060 would be 388ci.
I run a forged 4340 Eagle crank in my 355SBC and it's a very nice affordable piece. It balanced out pretty nice for the money spent. Lunati and JE are also top of the line parts your looking at.
Your looking at $500 for the block work and around $1500-1800 for crank, rods, pistons. That's if you assemble the shortblock yourself. Add another $2000 for heads, cam lifters. Also factor in all the small stuff, gaskets, headbolts, oil pan, etc..... It just keeps adding up, believe me.
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iTrader: (5)
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
I'm also running Eagle stuff in mine, and I like the fact they have a matched kit for pistons, crank, rods and rings/bearings all together. Their competition kits (which you should consider if spraying/making above 500 hp and racing it will be a regular occurance) go for around $1800-1900. A good set of aluminum 195cc heads, a single plane intake and 750 dp carb will set you back another 2 grand, plus all the little stuff mentioned.
My new 383 bullet is a 4-bolt main block with all the good stuff to handle 1000 hp, and my engine building figures 550 hp N/A, and it'll get another 200 hp of spray easily plus plenty of street mile. Cost to duplicate? about 9-10 grand.
First time you drive a 383 vs. the 350 you'll wonder why you didn't build one earlier!
If money is no object, getting a World or Dart aftermarket block and going as high as 454 cubes is always an option too!
Derek
My new 383 bullet is a 4-bolt main block with all the good stuff to handle 1000 hp, and my engine building figures 550 hp N/A, and it'll get another 200 hp of spray easily plus plenty of street mile. Cost to duplicate? about 9-10 grand.
First time you drive a 383 vs. the 350 you'll wonder why you didn't build one earlier!
If money is no object, getting a World or Dart aftermarket block and going as high as 454 cubes is always an option too!
Derek
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: South East, WI
well the money for the top of the line parts isnt a question. Im either going to turbo the car later on, or just spray on it and ill pay the extra money to have it bullet proof. Also ill be going with 225 AFR heads, pretty good sized cam. I know all the little stuff adds up but im the same guy who just about bought a 10k tt kit for an 03 cobra. I want to make this my ultimate car, but i would have to down the line turbo it. Idk how well carbed cars handle turbo's? I would think its kinda dangerous considering you dont have constant fuel like on a Fuel Injected car. Plus the ability to tune the computer?
If money isn't a problem then ditch the factory block. Factory block does not fit into your 'top of the line parts', 'bullet proof' description.
You can buy complete 454 SMALL BLOCKS that put out 610 hp on 91 octane for $10,500-$12,500.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...240+310209+115
You can buy complete 454 SMALL BLOCKS that put out 610 hp on 91 octane for $10,500-$12,500.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...240+310209+115
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
Blow-through turbo and carb cars are in the 8s already, so it can be done. EFI is easier to tune if you know how (or get someone that does) to do it. I agree if the $$ is there, start with an aftermarket block but I'd not buy a complete engine. The problem with a complete engine is someone else chooses the heads, cam, etc... and that may not work with your performance goals or build-up. Just my $.02
Derek
Derek
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
Blow-through turbo and carb cars are in the 8s already, so it can be done. EFI is easier to tune if you know how (or get someone that does) to do it. I agree if the $$ is there, start with an aftermarket block but I'd not buy a complete engine. The problem with a complete engine is someone else chooses the heads, cam, etc... and that may not work with your performance goals or build-up. Just my $.02
Derek
Derek
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 206
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From: South East, WI
im not going for 900+ hp, nor will it be a track queen. it probably will see the track a couple times and the rest autocross or driving around town. I just want a great setup that can handle a 100-150shot every once in awhile. I think eagle, lunati, probe or JE pistons is plenty for what i have in mind. Ill save the big turbo setups for my supra. And im not looking to go with an aftermarket big block. Maybe if i find a slightly larger block i will clean it up and build that. What size block can i find? 402?
TECH Resident
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The 383 is fine. You've mention that you're only after 650 hp or so on the bottle and a production block will deal with that just fine. I'd use a factory 4 bolt block or convert a 2 bolt to splayed caps with a Milodon or other quality aftermarket cap set. You don't have to get real trick, just buy quality parts. A 400 inch 4" bore engine isn't going to happen with a factory block. Don't get a balanced rotating assembly, have it balanced by your machine shop. You'll also want an external balanced dampener and flywheel or pay the big $$ for internal balancing with Mallory.
